Adjacent Areas
< None | Sunlover >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
5 minsAbseil
Windy
This first area is at the extreme west end of the platform beneath Trevallen, just past the prominent arete of Sunlover. The routes here tend to be either steep and savage crack climbs, or bold wall climbs and they are all in the upper E-grades. These routes see few ascents. Guidebook page 159.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Not Tonight Josephine The first route is at the extreme left-hand end of the wall. Climb the wall via a shallow groove and a crack. The line is... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
2 |
Waterloo A good hard route at the left-hand end of the wall which sees few ascents. Climb straight up to a peg (on 'Napoleon Bone... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
3 |
Napoleon Bone Apart A sport route with three stainless steel pegs and a thread. Climb straight up to a groove and follow this rightwards to a... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
4 |
Heugamont 28m. The long slim groove has an 'ankle breaker' start. Climb the right wall of the groove, to a semi-rest. Continue past some... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
5 |
Man from Uncle 28m. A nasty pitch which keeps getting harder. Bold climbing up the wall leads to a poor peg (good wires). Make a long move to... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
6 |
Versaille 28m. In the centre of the wall is a long crack. This proves to be a sustained test of barn-door moves and awkward-to-place... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
7 |
Fat Finger Exercise 28m. A beefy route up the wide crack, which is difficult to protect and you need more than just fat fingers to climb it. Start... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6a |
8 |
Physical Jerks 30m. A desperate struggle up the wicked cracks just right of the pedestal. Climb the cracks then slap rightwards into a groove.... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
9 |
The Bitch 30m. This well-named route follows the middle of three cracks left of the Sunlover arete. Climb the crack with some difficulty... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
10 |
Joan 30m. An easier-than-it-looks climb up the Bitch-like crack right of The Bitch. Slightly artificial since it is too close to its... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
