Heugamont

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Sunlover >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
5 mins
Abseil

This first area is at the extreme west end of the platform beneath Trevallen, just past the prominent arete of Sunlover. The routes here tend to be either steep and savage crack climbs, or bold wall climbs and they are all in the upper E-grades. These routes see few ascents. Guidebook page 159.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Not Tonight Josephine
The first route is at the extreme left-hand end of the wall. Climb the wall via a shallow groove and a crack. The line is...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
2
Waterloo
A good hard route at the left-hand end of the wall which sees few ascents. Climb straight up to a peg (on 'Napoleon Bone...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Napoleon Bone Apart
A sport route with three stainless steel pegs and a thread. Climb straight up to a groove and follow this rightwards to a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
4
Heugamont
28m. The long slim groove has an 'ankle breaker' start. Climb the right wall of the groove, to a semi-rest. Continue past some...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
5
Man from Uncle
28m. A nasty pitch which keeps getting harder. Bold climbing up the wall leads to a poor peg (good wires). Make a long move to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
Versaille
28m. In the centre of the wall is a long crack. This proves to be a sustained test of barn-door moves and awkward-to-place...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
Fat Finger Exercise
28m. A beefy route up the wide crack, which is difficult to protect and you need more than just fat fingers to climb it. Start...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
8
Physical Jerks
30m. A desperate struggle up the wicked cracks just right of the pedestal. Climb the cracks then slap rightwards into a groove....
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
The Bitch
30m. This well-named route follows the middle of three cracks left of the Sunlover arete. Climb the crack with some difficulty...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
10
Joan
30m. An easier-than-it-looks climb up the Bitch-like crack right of The Bitch. Slightly artificial since it is too close to its...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For TREVALLEN

    The Coriolis Affair
    "Excellent first pitch with great moves to gain the break." 16/Apr

    Trevallen Pillar
    "Don't recall any insit gear ... I normally avoid 'fluttery' routes but this seem..." 01/Sep top50

    Trevallen Pillar
    "the insit gear on the crux of the first pitch was welded in but old and made it ..." 09/Jan top50

    Sunlover
    "It used to be possible to place a good no.6 wire from standing in the first brea..." 21/Jun top50

    Dinkum Wall
    "First pitch is tough for E1 5b and bold to start. Second pitch currently has a ..." 25/May

    Sunlover
    "such a lovely route and all the time i had groove armada's 'sunlover' in my heed..." 06/May top50

    Orange Robe Burning
    "A third vote for no need to worry about clipping the thread. The wires to back u..." 28/May

    Fascist Groove Thang
    "I wasted an hour on the first fifteen feet of this route trying to find a way up..." 26/Aug

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