Brave New World

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The undercut walls on the left (looking in) of the crag are significantly less popular than the attractions to the right, but have just as much to offer in quality. The tidal nature and the savage starts tend to keep people away but Brave New World is an essential tick and there is quite a bit of other stuff to keep you busy while you are down this end.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sideshow
25m. Start below the narrow slab on the end wall left of the corner. Climb the slab by the diagonal cracks leading rightwards.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
2
Blood and Flesh
25m. Start below a thin crack which splits the roof of a cave. Climb to the crack then hard moves lead up to another crack....
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
3
Flesh and Blood
30m. Climb a crack just left of the cave to the break then follow the crack up right to a bulge. Move first right then back...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
4
Hidden Secrets
30m. Start below the left-hand side wall of the cave. Climb the wall and pull around onto the face - tricky. Move up then...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5c
5
Brave New World Top 50
32m. A stunning line, amazing rock and intensely thuggy climbing make this one of the most unforgettable routes around. Start...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
E4 6a
6
Out There
The hanging arete right of 'Brave New World' has some good climbing but a 'going nowhere' line. Climb over the roof as for...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Ghostly Galleon
32m. The hanging groove right of the hanging arete. Like all of the starts around here, it is sometimes damp. Start on a...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6a
8
Sea Fever
32m. Climb into the left-hand of two grooves, then move left to another groove. At the top of this reach around into a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
The Savage
32m. In the upper right-hand section of this wall is a long groove. This well-named route gains the groove from below. Pull up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
10
Round the Horn
35m. A enjoyable way of reaching the long groove of The Savage without all that mucking about with strenuous cracks. Start up...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
11
White Rhino
32m. The direct finish to Round the Horn. From the traverse of Round the Horn, climb the groove above to its top. Continue up...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
12
Hotspur
32m. Fix a runner in the groove on White Rhino and traverse to a small groove in the arete (old peg). Climb this, then the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
13
Imagination
40m. A long pitch up the wall above the large roof. Beware of rope drag if you do it in one run-out - extend your runners....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
14
Vision On
The blank grey wall right of the crack of Imagination.1) 5c, 15m. Follow Imagination but continue along the traverse line...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
15
Just an Illusion
Another wandering line which makes the most of the rock above the highest point of the black cave.1) 5c, 15m. Climb Vision...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
16
In Your Dreams
This route takes the traversing a bit too far.1) 5c, 15m. As for Vision On.2) 6a, 30m. Keep traversing rightwards...
 
Pumpy
E3 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For ST GOVAN'S EAST

    Body Language
    "protruding block might look suspect but felt fine to me. crux for me was moving..." 09/May

    Whispering Wind
    "Quality! Tricky lower crack. Worth 2 stars for the airy moves up the groove." 01/Apr

    The Vicar's Goat
    "Pumpy! Really good, worth 2 stars. Not loose at the finish- go do it." 01/Apr

    First Blood
    "Brilliant route with a hard (but short and very safe) crux sequence." 01/Sep

    Howling Gale
    "Found the crux on this harder than Tangerine Dream; I guess I belong to the 'non..." 01/Sep

    First Blood
    "super classic - one of my favorites!" 20/Aug

    Calisto
    "im not one for down-grading routes as a rule but i'd have to say its hvs 5a !" 13/Oct

    Imagination
    "As The commenst above say, a serious test of ropework. Take plenty of short slin..." 05/May

    Calisto
    "The first ascentionist is Pete Finklaire (not Kinklaire)" 04/May

    Body Language
    "I agree that the current Rockfax introduction to this route creates a false impr..." 07/Apr

    Imagination
    "A very good climb as far as the resting ledge above the roof. The top wall and ..." 28/Aug

    First Blood
    "No danger whatsoever of me being able to climb this route. With fingers like b..." 24/Aug

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