Adjacent Areas
< None | First Blood >
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level
10 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
The undercut walls on the left (looking in) of the crag are significantly less popular than the attractions to the right, but have just as much to offer in quality. The tidal nature and the savage starts tend to keep people away but Brave New World is an essential tick and there is quite a bit of other stuff to keep you busy while you are down this end. Guidebook page 188.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sideshow 25m. Start below the narrow slab on the end wall left of the corner. Climb the slab by the diagonal cracks leading rightwards. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
2 |
Blood and Flesh 25m. Start below a thin crack which splits the roof of a cave. Climb to the crack then hard moves lead up to another crack.... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
3 |
Flesh and Blood 30m. Climb a crack just left of the cave to the break then follow the crack up right to a bulge. Move first right then back... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
4 |
Hidden Secrets 30m. Start below the left-hand side wall of the cave. Climb the wall and pull around onto the face - tricky. Move up then... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E2 5c |
5 |
Brave New World Top 50 32m. A stunning line, amazing rock and intensely thuggy climbing make this one of the most unforgettable routes around. Start... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Graunchy | E4 6a |
6 |
Out There The hanging arete right of 'Brave New World' has some good climbing but a 'going nowhere' line. Climb over the roof as for... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
7 |
Ghostly Galleon 32m. The hanging groove right of the hanging arete. Like all of the starts around here, it is sometimes damp. Start on a... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Sea Fever 32m. Climb into the left-hand of two grooves, then move left to another groove. At the top of this reach around into a... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
9 |
The Savage 32m. In the upper right-hand section of this wall is a long groove. This well-named route gains the groove from below. Pull up... | 1 Stars Technical Strong | E4 6b |
10 |
Round the Horn 35m. A enjoyable way of reaching the long groove of The Savage without all that mucking about with strenuous cracks. Start up... | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
11 |
White Rhino 32m. The direct finish to Round the Horn. From the traverse of Round the Horn, climb the groove above to its top. Continue up... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
12 |
Hotspur 32m. Fix a runner in the groove on White Rhino and traverse to a small groove in the arete (old peg). Climb this, then the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
13 |
Imagination 40m. A long pitch up the wall above the large roof. Beware of rope drag if you do it in one run-out - extend your runners.... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
14 |
Vision On The blank grey wall right of the crack of Imagination.1) 5c, 15m. Follow Imagination but continue along the traverse line... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
15 |
Just an Illusion Another wandering line which makes the most of the rock above the highest point of the black cave.1) 5c, 15m. Climb Vision... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
16 |
In Your Dreams This route takes the traversing a bit too far.1) 5c, 15m. As for Vision On.2) 6a, 30m. Keep traversing rightwards... | Pumpy | E3 6a |