First Blood

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

A popular wall and justifiably so. It gets morning sun and is relatively non-tidal and also has a tidy little set of routes including the Top 50 tick of First Blood. While you are down here, Calisto, Forbidden Fruits and Howling Gale are all worth a look too. Guidebook page 190.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Rambo
35m. Start 8m left of the arete of First Blood, at the left-hand end of a narrow overhang, below a vague line of grooves. Power...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
2
Body Language
30m. A fine companion to First Blood but quite a bit harder with a beefy start thrown in. Start beneath a small projecting rock...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
First Blood
25m. A magnificent route which should be on everyone’s Pembroke tick list. Start below the arete at the left-hand end of a...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
4
Calisto
25m. This pleasant route roughly follows the arete right of First Blood. Climb an open groove on the right-hand side of the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
5
Mother India
25m. The thin crack in the wall right of the arete has a desperate move in its middle section. Watch out for the loose finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
6
Ganymede
25m. A friendly grade. Start just right of the arete of Calisto below a long corner. Climb the corner with an awkward move onto...
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
7
The Vicar's Goat
20m. Climb over the jumbled blocks to reach a leftwards leaning groove. Follow this to a loose finish.
1 user comment
 E2 5b
8
Silent Running
20m. In the centre of the buttress is a line of thin cracks. Climb up these with lots of hard moves and good runners.
 
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
9
Quiet Please
A nice wall climb which uses a drilled peg for protection. This peg may be removed sometime in the future and the route has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Mud Pie in Your Eye
20m. If you avoid touching any mud, by bridging up the edges of the chimney, then this is actually quite a good little route.
 HVS 4c
11
Adam's Rib
20m. A bold route up the left arete of the buttress. Start below the left arete of the square buttress right of the mud-filled...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
12
Forbidden Fruits
20m. A great route up the centre of the square buttress to the left (looking in) of the abseil line. Start in the centre of the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
13
Juicy Lucy
20m. A direct version of Forbidden Fruits. From the base of the ramp, climb straight up the wall above to a flake. Move right...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
14
Rear Wind
24m. The left side of the arete is great, and well-protected, too. Jump on board from the left, and trace a line all the way up...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
15
Whispering Wind
24m. Another good line. Engage the arete from under the initial overhang, and follow the cracks in the right side of the arete,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
16
Howling Gale
24m. The superb face to the right is taken pretty much in its centre. Although it has some old fixed gear, this can all be...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For ST. GOVAN'S EAST

    Body Language
    "protruding block might look suspect but felt fine to me. crux for me was moving..." 09/May

    Whispering Wind
    "Quality! Tricky lower crack. Worth 2 stars for the airy moves up the groove." 01/Apr

    The Vicar's Goat
    "Pumpy! Really good, worth 2 stars. Not loose at the finish- go do it." 01/Apr

    First Blood
    "Brilliant route with a hard (but short and very safe) crux sequence." 01/Sep

    Howling Gale
    "Found the crux on this harder than Tangerine Dream; I guess I belong to the 'non..." 01/Sep

    First Blood
    "super classic - one of my favorites!" 20/Aug

    Calisto
    "im not one for down-grading routes as a rule but i'd have to say its hvs 5a !" 13/Oct

    Imagination
    "As The commenst above say, a serious test of ropework. Take plenty of short slin..." 05/May

    Calisto
    "The first ascentionist is Pete Finklaire (not Kinklaire)" 04/May

    Body Language
    "I agree that the current Rockfax introduction to this route creates a false impr..." 07/Apr

    Imagination
    "A very good climb as far as the resting ledge above the roof. The top wall and ..." 28/Aug

    First Blood
    "No danger whatsoever of me being able to climb this route. With fingers like b..." 24/Aug

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