First Blood

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Level
Abseil

A popular wall and justifiably so. It gets morning sun and is relatively non-tidal and also has a tidy little set of routes including the Top 50 tick of First Blood. While you are down here, Calisto, Forbidden Fruits and Howling Gale are all worth a look too.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Rambo
Start 8m left of the arete of First Blood, at the left-hand end of a narrow overhang, below a vague line of grooves. Power...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
2
Body Language
A fine companion to First Blood but quite a bit harder with a beefy start thrown in. Start beneath a small projecting rock...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
3
First Blood
A magnificent route which should be on everyone's Pembroke tick list. Start below the arete at the left-hand end of a platform...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2
4
Calisto
This pleasant route roughly follows the arete right of First Blood. Climb an open groove on the right-hand side of the arete to...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
5
Mother India
The thin crack in the wall right of the arete has a desperate move in its middle section. Watch out for the loose finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
6
Ganymede
A friendly grade. Start just right of the arete of Calisto below a long corner. Climb the corner with an awkward move onto a...
 
1 Stars
HS
7
The Vicar's Goat
Climb over the jumbled blocks to reach a leftwards leaning groove. Follow this to the top.
2 user comments
 E2
8
Silent Running
In the centre of the buttress is a line of thin cracks. Climb up these with lots of hard moves and good runners.
 
Technical
E4
9
Quiet Please
A nice wall climb which uses a drilled peg for protection. This peg may be removed sometime in the future and the route has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Mud Pie in Your Eye
If you avoid touching any mud, by bridging up the edges of the chimney, then this is actually quite a good little route.
 HVS
11
Adam's Rib
A bold route up the left arete of the buttress. Start below the left arete of the square buttress right of the mud-filled...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4
12
Forbidden Fruits
A great route up the centre of the square buttress to the left (looking in) of the abseil line. Start in the centre of the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
13
Juicy Lucy
A direct version of Forbidden Fruits. From the base of the ramp, climb straight up the wall above to a flake. Move right and up...
 
1 Stars
E4
14
Rear Wind
The left side of the arete is great, and well-protected, too. Jump on board from the left, and trace a line all the way up the...
 
1 Stars
HVS
15
Whispering Wind
Another good line. Engage the arete from under the initial overhang, and follow the cracks in the right side of the arete,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
16
Howling Gale
The superb face to the right is taken pretty much in its centre. Although it has some old fixed gear, this can all be...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
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  • Latest Comments

    For ST GOVAN'S EAST

    The Vicar's Goat
    "Totally agree with cockers, needs updating in next Rockfax." 25/Mar

    Body Language
    "protruding block might look suspect but felt fine to me. crux for me was moving..." 09/May

    Whispering Wind
    "Quality! Tricky lower crack. Worth 2 stars for the airy moves up the groove." 01/Apr

    The Vicar's Goat
    "Pumpy! Really good, worth 2 stars. Not loose at the finish- go do it." 01/Apr

    First Blood
    "Brilliant route with a hard (but short and very safe) crux sequence." 01/Sep

    Howling Gale
    "Found the crux on this harder than Tangerine Dream; I guess I belong to the 'non..." 01/Sep

    First Blood
    "super classic - one of my favorites!" 20/Aug

    Calisto
    "im not one for down-grading routes as a rule but i'd have to say its hvs 5a !" 13/Oct

    Imagination
    "As The commenst above say, a serious test of ropework. Take plenty of short slin..." 05/May

    Calisto
    "The first ascentionist is Pete Finklaire (not Kinklaire)" 04/May

    Body Language
    "I agree that the current Rockfax introduction to this route creates a false impr..." 07/Apr

    Imagination
    "A very good climb as far as the resting ledge above the roof. The top wall and ..." 28/Aug

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