Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Level
25 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
No climbing 1 Mar to 31 Jul. (Birds).
Mowing Word is best know for two classic routes - Diedre Sud and Heart of Darkness. These routes have become significant milestones for many climbers. They follow the most prominent features of the central section of Mowing Word. The other routes on this section also have plenty to offer. Guidebook page 198.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Diedre Sud 30m. The long corner in the centre of the face is one of the classic climbs of its grade in Britain; it does get busy though.... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | HS 4a |
2 |
The Right Wall 35m. Start at the foot of Diedre Sud. Move 3m right then climb the wall for 6m and move up and left across a groove to a small... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
3 |
New Morning This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
4 |
Ice Breaker A good route with a technical top pitch requiring commitment.1) 5c, 20m. From New Morning move right to below a crack.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
5 |
Razorbill A long route which makes the most of the rock between Diedre Sud and the big sea cave giving good positions for the grade.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Flax of Dream A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E2 5a |
7 |
Heart of Darkness Top 50 One of the best HVS’s in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 4c |
8 |
Heart of Darkness/New Morning The most popular way of finishing Heart of Darkness is to climb direct from the arete belay at the end of pitch 1 of Heart of... 4 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5b |
9 |
In One Door A good route. Start from the ledge of Heart of Darkness.1) 6a, 25m. Follow Heart of Darkness along the traverse then climb... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
10 |
In the Heat of the Night 35m. A direct finish to In One Door which is climbed in one long pitch. Follow In One Door to the top of the hanging corner,... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
11 |
Sealhunt 35m. This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then... 4 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5b |
12 |
Seal of Approval 35m. The best of several eliminates to the right of the corner of Sealhunt. Climb the wall slightly right of Sealhunt to a... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
13 |
Culinary Delights 35m. Great climbing in the upper groove. From the ledge on Seal of Approval, move rightwards along the break to gain the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
14 |
Nipper's Route Start as for 'Heart of Darkness'. Climb the corner behind the ledge, to the roof. Move right and then left past the roof then... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
15 |
Black Cat 35m. A terrific line. Start from the ledge right of Heart of Darkness. Climb the corner crack, to gain a small ledge. Pull... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E3 6a |