Diedre Sud

Adjacent Areas
< Chimes of Freedom  |  The Southern Tip >

Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Level
Abseil

Mowing Word is best know for two classic routes - Diedre Sud and Heart of Darkness. These routes have become significant milestones for many climbers. They follow the most prominent features of the central section of Mowing Word. The other routes on this section also have plenty to offer.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Diedre Sud
The long corner in the centre of the face is one of the classic climbs of its grade in Britain; it does get busy though. Climb...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS
2
The Right Wall
Start at the foot of Diedre Sud. Move 3m right then climb the wall for 6m and move up and left across a groove to a small...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
3
New Morning
This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
4
Ice Breaker
A good route with a technical top pitch requiring commitment.1) 5c, 20m. From New Morning move right to below a crack....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
5
Razorbill
A long route which makes the most of the rock between Diedre Sud and the big sea cave giving good positions for the grade....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
6
Flax of Dream
A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2
7
Heart of Darkness Top 50
One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS
8
Heart of Darkness/New Morning
The most popular way of finishing Heart of Darkness is to climb direct from the arete belay at the end of pitch 1 of Heart of...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
9
In One Door
A good route. Start from the ledge of Heart of Darkness.1) 6a, 25m. Follow Heart of Darkness along the traverse then climb...
 
2 Stars
E5
10
In the Heat of the Night
A direct finish to In One Door which is climbed in one long pitch. Follow In One Door to the top of the hanging corner, then...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
11
Sealhunt
This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
12
Seal of Approval
The best of several eliminates to the right of the corner of Sealhunt. Climb the wall slightly right of Sealhunt to a ledge...
 
1 Stars
E3
13
Culinary Delights
Great climbing in the upper groove. From the ledge on Seal of Approval, move rightwards along the break to gain the groove;...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
14
Nipper's Route
Start as for 'Heart of Darkness'. Climb the corner behind the ledge, to the roof. Move right and then left past the roof then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
15
Black Cat
A terrific line. Start from the ledge right of Heart of Darkness. Climb the corner crack, to gain a small ledge. Pull slightly...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
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  • Latest Comments

    For MOWING WORD

    In the Heat of the Night
    "Changed from E5 6a ** to E6 6b **, no votes" 08/Jun

    Nijinsky
    "Expect E2 5b and u won't be surprised" 02/Oct

    Snozwanger
    "I used to think this route was straight fowrad and well protected for HVS. Now t..." 30/Sep

    Flax of Dream
    "I assumed 5a was a misprint. Gets 5c in the CC guide, felt like a normal Pembrok..." 06/Jul

    Nijinsky
    "enjoyable climbing with a tricky crux and steep well-protected climbing above" 21/Dec

    Sealhunt
    "Fantastic route, not too hard or bold if you believe the in the grade and move a..." 07/Jun

    Culinary Delights
    "The route description that both Rockfax and The Climber's Club have is misleadin..." 05/Sep

    Flax of Dream
    "This ia a great little line but a bit unbalanced. Its easy peasy up to the 'woul..." 13/Oct

    Widowmaker
    "Description is a little wrong- from the top of the left hand groove you move up ..." 11/Aug

    The Right Wall
    "I remember this being very good when I did it in 1983, but a bit of a horror sto..." 27/Jul

    Tie Me to the Tyburn Tree
    "I backed off this due to the state of the first peg, which is fairly crucial, an..." 29/Sep

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