Diedre Sud

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Mowing Word is best know for two classic routes - Diedre Sud and Heart of Darkness. These routes have become significant milestones for many climbers. They follow the most prominent features of the central section of Mowing Word. The other routes on this section also have plenty to offer. Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Diedre Sud
30m. The long corner in the centre of the face is one of the classic climbs of its grade in Britain; it does get busy though....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4a
2
The Right Wall
35m. Start at the foot of Diedre Sud. Move 3m right then climb the wall for 6m and move up and left across a groove to a small...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
3
New Morning
This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
4
Ice Breaker
A good route with a technical top pitch requiring commitment.1) 5c, 20m. From New Morning move right to below a crack....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
5
Razorbill
A long route which makes the most of the rock between Diedre Sud and the big sea cave giving good positions for the grade....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
6
Flax of Dream
A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5a
7
Heart of Darkness Top 50
One of the best HVS’s in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 4c
8
Heart of Darkness/New Morning
The most popular way of finishing Heart of Darkness is to climb direct from the arete belay at the end of pitch 1 of Heart of...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
9
In One Door
A good route. Start from the ledge of Heart of Darkness.1) 6a, 25m. Follow Heart of Darkness along the traverse then climb...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
10
In the Heat of the Night
35m. A direct finish to In One Door which is climbed in one long pitch. Follow In One Door to the top of the hanging corner,...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
11
Sealhunt
35m. This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
12
Seal of Approval
35m. The best of several eliminates to the right of the corner of Sealhunt. Climb the wall slightly right of Sealhunt to a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
13
Culinary Delights
35m. Great climbing in the upper groove. From the ledge on Seal of Approval, move rightwards along the break to gain the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
14
Nipper's Route
Start as for 'Heart of Darkness'. Climb the corner behind the ledge, to the roof. Move right and then left past the roof then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
15
Black Cat
35m. A terrific line. Start from the ledge right of Heart of Darkness. Climb the corner crack, to gain a small ledge. Pull...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For MOWING WORD

    Flax of Dream
    "I assumed 5a was a misprint. Gets 5c in the CC guide, felt like a normal Pembrok..." 06/Jul

    Nijinsky
    "enjoyable climbing with a tricky crux and steep well-protected climbing above" 21/Dec

    Sealhunt
    "Fantastic route, not too hard or bold if you believe the in the grade and move a..." 07/Jun

    Culinary Delights
    "The route description that both Rockfax and The Climber's Club have is misleadin..." 05/Sep

    Flax of Dream
    "This ia a great little line but a bit unbalanced. Its easy peasy up to the 'woul..." 13/Oct

    Widowmaker
    "Description is a little wrong- from the top of the left hand groove you move up ..." 11/Aug

    The Right Wall
    "I remember this being very good when I did it in 1983, but a bit of a horror sto..." 27/Jul

    Tie Me to the Tyburn Tree
    "I backed off this due to the state of the first peg, which is fairly crucial, an..." 29/Sep

    Crises
    "The crux is very baffling and seems to require either a huge physical span or an..." 26/Aug

    Black Cat
    "This climbs the RH groove above the roof, gained via a beckoning flake. 'Nipper..." 28/Sep

    Sealhunt
    "the essence of pembroke, ab descent then wonderful absorbing climbing in one lon..." 29/Aug

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