Heaven's Door

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
30 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Stackpole is at its tallest on its imposing left-hand side. Two caves dominate, split by the striking arete of Always the Sun with the cracks of Heaven's Door to its right. Guidebook page 204.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Salty Dog
35m. A great route, found on the left-hand pillar of the first decent section of cliff. Climb to the first overhang, pass this...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
2
The Whaler
An ancient classic; an excellent yet daunting prospect. A rockfall at the start makes the first pitch’s grade a little...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
3
Immortality
38m. Brilliant! Superb climbing throughout, but at the top of its grade. Climb the groove for some 9m, then move left, to climb...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Neptune
35m. One of the original lines here, and still a terrific one. It takes the central line of grooves between the caves, in the...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Always the Sun
35m. The massive arete is simply stunning. The fixed gear is not crucial to maintain the E7 grade. Start below the arete and...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
6
Cruise to Hell
35m. A steep route up the left-hand side of the wall. Climb Second Shadow then pull up rightwards into a hanging groove. Step...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
7
Heaven's Door
A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
8
The Big Sleep
A variation finish to 'Heaven's Door' up the wall to the right. This one can also be abseiled into at high tide. From the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
9
Second Shadow
This is a typical Stackpole route; a steep start, a traverse and a well-positioned upper section. Start below a steep...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
10
Iron Maiden
38m. This awesome route follows the crack in the left-hand side of the huge roof. Climb the steep crack all the way to the roof...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For STACKPOLE

    Swordfish
    "Found this much the hardest of the classic Pembroke E3s I've done, much harder t..." 07/Sep

    Condor
    "Good route with 2 varied pitches. Worth 2* I reckon though maybe a * gets taken ..." 16/Apr

    Adam Adamant
    "The route of Adam Adamant is on the facing wall to that shown in the book, but w..." 27/Sep

    Swordfish
    "A great route, just one tricky section and plenty of gear. The situation is seri..." 31/Aug

    The Whaler
    "P1 is 5a; a great pitch, HVS climbing in an E5 situation. Neither Rockfax nor..." 16/Aug

    Adam Adamant
    "The topo shown in the Rockfax guide is of a completely different route! Adam A..." 16/Aug

    Heaven's Door
    "Anyone else notice the rocking block just nefore pulling into the cracks?" 11/Aug

    Always the Sun
    "1 peg has broken and the other looks of similar vintage." 28/Sep

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