Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
30 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
No climbing 1 Mar to 31 Jul. (Birds).
Stackpole is at its tallest on its imposing left-hand side. Two caves dominate, split by the striking arete of Always the Sun with the cracks of Heaven's Door to its right. Guidebook page 204.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Salty Dog 35m. A great route, found on the left-hand pillar of the first decent section of cliff. Climb to the first overhang, pass this... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
2 |
The Whaler An ancient classic; an excellent yet daunting prospect. A rockfall at the start makes the first pitch’s grade a little... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
3 |
Immortality 38m. Brilliant! Superb climbing throughout, but at the top of its grade. Climb the groove for some 9m, then move left, to climb... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
4 |
Neptune 35m. One of the original lines here, and still a terrific one. It takes the central line of grooves between the caves, in the... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
5 |
Always the Sun 35m. The massive arete is simply stunning. The fixed gear is not crucial to maintain the E7 grade. Start below the arete and... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
6 |
Cruise to Hell 35m. A steep route up the left-hand side of the wall. Climb Second Shadow then pull up rightwards into a hanging groove. Step... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
7 |
Heaven's Door A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
8 |
The Big Sleep A variation finish to 'Heaven's Door' up the wall to the right. This one can also be abseiled into at high tide. From the... | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
9 |
Second Shadow This is a typical Stackpole route; a steep start, a traverse and a well-positioned upper section. Start below a steep... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
10 |
Iron Maiden 38m. This awesome route follows the crack in the left-hand side of the huge roof. Climb the steep crack all the way to the roof... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E4 6a |