Adjacent Areas
< Blind Bay | Brazen Buttress >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
10 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
The left-hand side of the crag has a huge overhanging corner - Rock Idol. Left of the corner the cliff bulges for almost its entire length, to the right is a magnificent wall laced with cracks and with a prominent pod-shaped cave low down (Strait Gate). To the right of Strait Gate the cliff is covered in a mass of cracks and caves running up its full length which give a few classic lower grade routes. Guidebook page 216.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Zeppelin A Pembroke classic which soars up and out over the sea with more buckets than a garden centre. It is usually done in one pitch... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
2 |
Hindenburg 35m. The wall between Zeppelin and the corner contains a similar route to Zeppelin but without all the jugs. The crucial peg on... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E7 6c |
3 |
Rock Idol Top 50 35m. The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5a |
4 |
Joyous Gard 35m. The line of grooves and cracks between the corner and the cave of Strait Gate. Climb the grooves then move slightly right... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
5 |
The Strait Gate Top 50 35m. Another mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of... 4 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5b |
6 |
Talk's Cheap 35m. This direct route up the wall between Strait Gate and the arete. Climb the wall, on some large sharp holds and cracks, to... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
7 |
Wraith 35m. A great climb but perhaps not as great as it once was, and it should be considered as high in the grade. Start below a... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | E3 5c |
8 |
Crithmum 32m. Once an enjoyable and popular classic but it has suffered from rockfalls over the years. The route has now stabilised but... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | VS 5a |
9 |
Sunsmoke 32m. A superb crack in the wall right of Crithmum which is better now that Crithmum is further away! Climb Crithmum to the base... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | E2 5b |
10 |
The Meridian 30m. A good route which takes a line up the cracked wall starting as for Crithmum. Move up a crack, trend rightwards out of... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
The Cracks Top 50 30m. The wall just left of the through cave. Climb cracks in the wall to a triangular niche (historical belay). Move right out... 4 user comments | 2 Stars | S |
