Adjacent Areas
< Star Gate | The White Tower >
Trad
Morning sun
Level
5 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
Star Gate - No climbing Mar to 31 Jul
The side wall overlooking a small Zawn on the east side of Mother Carey's is innocuous on first appearance. However the wall is incredibly steep, and liberally covered with holds - a great combination. Unfortunately for climbers, the wall is also popular with birds - nothing rare (except on Star Gate) but unpleasant to climb on in the nesting season. Guidebook page 92.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hyperspace No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds. This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
2 |
Fireball XL5 30m. A mega direct route up the wall left of all the threads. Climb up a vague bulging arete to a good slot. Continue straight... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
3 |
Just Klingon 30m. Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6a |
4 |
Mother Night The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave,... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
5 |
Zoony 30m. Yet another steep and hard route. Start as from the ledge of Mother Night. After pulling around the first roof, make a... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
6 |
Unconscious 30m. A desperate direct line which reaches the last section of Hyperspace from below. Start from the Mother Night ledge. Climb... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6c |
7 |
Tiger Tiger 30m. A stunning route which makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall. Take a lot of small cams. Start from the ledge... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
8 |
The Laughing Hygena 35m. If you thought that the other routes on this wall were steep then take a look at this one! It is a direct start to Tiger... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6c |
