The Space Face

Adjacent Areas
< Star Gate  |  The White Tower >

Trad
Morning sun
Level
5 mins
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Star Gate - No climbing Mar to 31 Jul


The side wall overlooking a small Zawn on the east side of Mother Carey's is innocuous on first appearance. However the wall is incredibly steep, and liberally covered with holds - a great combination. Unfortunately for climbers, the wall is also popular with birds - nothing rare (except on Star Gate) but unpleasant to climb on in the nesting season. Guidebook page 92.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hyperspace
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds. This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
2
Fireball XL5
30m. A mega direct route up the wall left of all the threads. Climb up a vague bulging arete to a good slot. Continue straight...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Just Klingon
30m. Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
4
Mother Night
The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
5
Zoony
30m. Yet another steep and hard route. Start as from the ledge of Mother Night. After pulling around the first roof, make a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
Unconscious
30m. A desperate direct line which reaches the last section of Hyperspace from below. Start from the Mother Night ledge. Climb...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
7
Tiger Tiger
30m. A stunning route which makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall. Take a lot of small cams. Start from the ledge...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
The Laughing Hygena
35m. If you thought that the other routes on this wall were steep then take a look at this one! It is a direct start to Tiger...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6c
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For MOTHER CAREY'S

    Joyous Gard
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Narrow Carriage
    "Good route with a tricky move in the groove and fine moves higher up." 16/Apr

    Toffee Nose
    "This is a great route, deffinatly recomended" 19/Dec

    Rock Idol
    "A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected..." 05/Sep top50

    Zeppelin
    "amazing climb! If you train on indoor overhangs then you have absolutely no excu..." 20/Aug

    Heroes
    "Too eliminate and escapable to be worthwhile. Stepped onto pedestal for a rest t..." 08/Jul

    Zeppelin
    "same as above, i found the top corner the crux" 09/Jan

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