Tearg Wall Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 mins

A fine exposed area of crag that is the upper section of the tiers of vertical walls that hang over the road ford at the start of the walk to the crag. The rock is generally excellent and the protection on the best lines is good. The climbs although not long are in a very exposed position and a belay at the base of the crag is advised. The ledge system that runs beneath this area is fairly narrow and care is needed. The descent gully is very friendly and allows easy access to the top of the crag which has trees and good belays.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cathcart's Got a Brand New Brodrie
9m. Good rock and protection make for a worthwhile route. Start to the left of a small fir tree and left of a small overlap....
2 user comments
 E1 5b
2
Finer Feelings Top 50
9m. At the far end of the crag lies this gem. The start is a little tricky but the rock, protection and climbing are superb.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
3
Warp Commander
9m. Start immediately right of Finer Feelings. Pull onto the wall using good holds then move up and right to a large layaway,...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
4
The Trick
9m. Follow the crack to the ash tree then tackle the problematic wall and crack above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
5
Vertical Games
9m. Climb up to the flake crack in the smooth wall and arrange some bomber protection where the crack ends. Make a perplexing...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 6a
6
Chance
9m. A worrying route. Start easily up good flakes to the horizontal break then pull up to a very hollow square flake and make a...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5b
7
Ash Bole
8m. The unappealing vegetated crack.
 
Loose
S 4a
8
Quill
10m. An entertaining test in jamming. Hand jam to a good ledge and finish up the short flared crack above.
3 user comments
 VS 4c
9
Sting
10m. A good sustained minor classic. Climb the large flake to a ledge beneath the wide crack, follow this with conviction.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4a
10
Jennifer Crack
10m. A powerful line and route following the wide crack splitting the buttress.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HS 4a
11
World's Edge
12m. A well positioned and worthwhile pitch taking the arête on its right side. Make a stiff pull onto the face just right of...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
12
Someone Like You
12m. A difficult committing climb requiring telescopic arms. Pull onto the wall using a dubious flake and move up to a PR...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Soul on Ice
12m. A good but slightly eliminate climb following a series of hollow flakes up the arête with a hard move by an old bootlace...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 5c
14
Les Elephants
8m. The obvious chimney crack.
 VS 4c
15
Telegram Sam
11m. A delicate exercise that climbs the left side of the wall past a very old BR to reach a good hold above, from this move...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
16
Tearg Wall Top 50
12m. A superbly positioned climb taking the line of least resistance up the wall, the start can feel committing but the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E2 5c
17
Wasters Wall
12m. A very good rewarding climb with just enough protection. Start beneath a juggy flake and using this climb straight up to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
18
Heart of Darkness
11m. An airy route up the exposed arête that is reasonably protected with small wires.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
19
Half and Half
8m. More like a cave route than a rock climb. Ascend the chimney into darkness and after 7m move onto the right wall and...
 S 4a
20
Sleeping Beauty
9m. Move up to an old inverted peg and make a hard move past this over the bulge to join the easy upper wall of Xuxu.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
21
Xuxu
9m. A nasty pitch. Pull through the large hollow bulge on big but spaced jugs. The upper wall just right of the yew tree is...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5b
22
Slither
10m. The thin crack in the wall immediately left of Ivy Crack is awkward to start. Climb to the end of the crack and move left...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
23
Ivy Crack
10m. The obvious arm width crack eases after a couple of moves. The top is a lot cleaner than it looks from below.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
24
Wither
8m. The rather unappealing block choked break.
 D
25
Christmas Spirit
12m. Follow the finger crack in the left edge of the wall to a TR, continue up broken cracks and hollow flakes, not as bad as...
 
Technical
E1 5b
26
Flash Harry
12m. Harder and a little pokier than Flash Dance and almost as good. Follow the finger crack to a small overlap, pull up to a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
27
Flash Dance
12m. A technical well protected wall climb requiring good footwork and strong fingers. Gain the thin crack in the right hand...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
28
Jumping Jack Flash
13m. A harrowing pitch that starts up Flash Dance but then precariously traverses right on dubious rock to an old TR at the...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Quill
    "Hard for the grade? I don't think so!" 11/Oct

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Finer Feelings
    "my best route to date very pleased with the technical start." 24/Jun top50

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

    Hornwall
    "Awkward start but soon eases - unfortunately the tree gets in the way a bit" 12/Sep

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "Polished holds, awkward gear and high in the grade. I was very relieved to top o..." 18/Jun

    Suicide Crack
    "if butter arete is E3 then this is E5" 29/May

    Insecure
    "I climbed this route just before the rockfax guide came out, the old guide gave ..." 07/Apr

    Tearg Wall
    "Going past the peg is harder than the rest of the route because it's the crux! E..." 03/Apr top50

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "extremely polished" 27/Mar

    Twisting Corner
    "Easy climbing all the way tho getting a bit polished now" 31/Jul

    Whim
    "Very good, well protected HVS. The climbing is interesting from the time you ent..." 30/Jul top50

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