Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
A fine exposed area of crag that is the upper section of the tiers of vertical walls that hang over the road ford at the start of the walk to the crag. The rock is generally excellent and the protection on the best lines is good. The climbs although not long are in a very exposed position and a belay at the base of the crag is advised. The ledge system that runs beneath this area is fairly narrow and care is needed. The descent gully is very friendly and allows easy access to the top of the crag which has trees and good belays.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Cathcart's Got a Brand New Brodrie 9m. Good rock and protection make for a worthwhile route. Start to the left of a small fir tree and left of a small overlap.... 2 user comments | E1 5b | |
2 |
Finer Feelings Top 50 9m. At the far end of the crag lies this gem. The start is a little tricky but the rock, protection and climbing are superb. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Warp Commander 9m. Start immediately right of Finer Feelings. Pull onto the wall using good holds then move up and right to a large layaway,... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
4 |
The Trick 9m. Follow the crack to the ash tree then tackle the problematic wall and crack above. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
5 |
Vertical Games 9m. Climb up to the flake crack in the smooth wall and arrange some bomber protection where the crack ends. Make a perplexing... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E3 6a |
6 |
Chance 9m. A worrying route. Start easily up good flakes to the horizontal break then pull up to a very hollow square flake and make a... | Fluttery Loose | E2 5b |
7 |
Ash Bole 8m. The unappealing vegetated crack. | Loose | S 4a |
8 |
Quill 10m. An entertaining test in jamming. Hand jam to a good ledge and finish up the short flared crack above. 3 user comments | VS 4c | |
9 |
Sting 10m. A good sustained minor classic. Climb the large flake to a ledge beneath the wide crack, follow this with conviction. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4a |
10 |
Jennifer Crack 10m. A powerful line and route following the wide crack splitting the buttress. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | HS 4a |
11 |
World's Edge 12m. A well positioned and worthwhile pitch taking the arête on its right side. Make a stiff pull onto the face just right of... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
12 |
Someone Like You 12m. A difficult committing climb requiring telescopic arms. Pull onto the wall using a dubious flake and move up to a PR... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
13 |
Soul on Ice 12m. A good but slightly eliminate climb following a series of hollow flakes up the arête with a hard move by an old bootlace... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 5c |
14 |
Les Elephants 8m. The obvious chimney crack. | VS 4c | |
15 |
Telegram Sam 11m. A delicate exercise that climbs the left side of the wall past a very old BR to reach a good hold above, from this move... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
16 |
Tearg Wall Top 50 12m. A superbly positioned climb taking the line of least resistance up the wall, the start can feel committing but the... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | E2 5c |
17 |
Wasters Wall 12m. A very good rewarding climb with just enough protection. Start beneath a juggy flake and using this climb straight up to... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
18 |
Heart of Darkness 11m. An airy route up the exposed arête that is reasonably protected with small wires. | 2 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
19 |
Half and Half 8m. More like a cave route than a rock climb. Ascend the chimney into darkness and after 7m move onto the right wall and... | S 4a | |
20 |
Sleeping Beauty 9m. Move up to an old inverted peg and make a hard move past this over the bulge to join the easy upper wall of Xuxu. | Technical Fluttery | E3 6a |
21 |
Xuxu 9m. A nasty pitch. Pull through the large hollow bulge on big but spaced jugs. The upper wall just right of the yew tree is... | Fluttery Loose | E2 5b |
22 |
Slither 10m. The thin crack in the wall immediately left of Ivy Crack is awkward to start. Climb to the end of the crack and move left... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
23 |
Ivy Crack 10m. The obvious arm width crack eases after a couple of moves. The top is a lot cleaner than it looks from below. | 1 Stars Pumpy | S 4a |
24 |
Wither 8m. The rather unappealing block choked break. | D | |
25 |
Christmas Spirit 12m. Follow the finger crack in the left edge of the wall to a TR, continue up broken cracks and hollow flakes, not as bad as... | Technical | E1 5b |
26 |
Flash Harry 12m. Harder and a little pokier than Flash Dance and almost as good. Follow the finger crack to a small overlap, pull up to a... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E5 6b |
27 |
Flash Dance 12m. A technical well protected wall climb requiring good footwork and strong fingers. Gain the thin crack in the right hand... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
28 |
Jumping Jack Flash 13m. A harrowing pitch that starts up Flash Dance but then precariously traverses right on dubious rock to an old TR at the... | Fluttery Loose | E4 5c |
