Intensity Area

Adjacent Areas
< Taerg Wall Area  |  Open Book Area >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
14 mins
Uphill

The area is a good spot for those seeking out some decent mid grade trad lines and has one hard sport pitch.
Approach - The area starts as the path exits the trees and continues to the exposed arete.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Craznitch Crack
The overhanging wide crack is easier than it looks.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
HS
2
Close to the Edge
An exciting route. Follow Intensity to the first overhang, then traverse left beneath this (thread) to reach a V-shaped groove....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
3
Intensity Top 50
An intimidating but classic testpiece requiring a forthright approach. Battle up the steep, wide crack using a variety of jams...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
4
Gone Bad
A wild rose appears to have taken over this route. Follow the thin groove to the overhang and move right to reach a layback...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Pumpy
E1
5
Going Bad
The crack and hanging pillar on the arete.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Loose
E2
6
Yew and Me
A hard and powerful start with no gear gains a good hold beneath the yew tree. Pull up onto a ledge and finish up the wall.
2 user comments
 
Strong
Fluttery
Loose
E3
7
Cigars of the Pharaohs
The bulging wall has a hard and powerful start, followed by more hard technical moves above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
8
Shooting Star
A striking line - one of the best routes at World's End. Climb the crack-line and bulge before finishing up the still taxing...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
9
The Final Solution Top 50
Technical climbing using tiny crimps and layaways on the lower wall is complemented by a powerful finish through the upper...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
10
Sisters of the Moon
A poor eliminate that tries to climb the wall left of Brigadier Gerard but ultimately uses holds on that route. Protected by...
2 user comments
 
Technical
E5
11
Brigadier Gerard
A good line blasting straight up the wall and over the bulge, following the crack-line. Some of the holds rattle but the gear...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
12
Tripe and Landah
A strenuous route climbing the thin crack past a peg.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1
13
Fossil Finish
A hard start gains a ledge with a thorn bush. Take the layback crack above and finish leftwards on loose rock.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VS
14
Ego Beaver
A route with one very hard section.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3
15
Titanium Man
Good climbing. Climb easily to the top of a flake and continue up thin finger-cracks in the vague rib to a peg. Difficult moves...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
16
Crystal
A nicely varied climb that starts up the rightward-trending layback flake to reach a finger-crack. Follow this, passing to the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
17
Dr. Technical
Climb nervously up the white groove to an old thread, then move up to the bulge and a welcome bolt. Span rightwards to better...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E4
18
Nurse Nurse
Climb boldly up to a bolt beneath the bulge and reach over this to big hollow jugs. Continue up easy ground, past a thread.
3 user comments
 
Strong
Fluttery
E5
19
Read My Lips
The final route is also one of the hardest around with a very blind move at the crux. Climb up to a bolt beneath the bulge,...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
E5
20
Meth
Steep to start. Make a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the groove via easier climbing.
 E1
  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

    Hornwall
    "Awkward start but soon eases - unfortunately the tree gets in the way a bit" 12/Sep

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "Polished holds, awkward gear and high in the grade. I was very relieved to top o..." 18/Jun

    Suicide Crack
    "if butter arete is E3 then this is E5" 29/May

    Insecure
    "I climbed this route just before the rockfax guide came out, the old guide gave ..." 07/Apr

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "extremely polished" 27/Mar

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