Open Book Area

Adjacent Areas
< Intensity Area  |  Inelegance Area >

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Sun from mid-morning
13 mins
Uphill

Cracks, aretes and corners dominate in this area, which has some particularly good rock. Suicide Crack is a classic, well-protected, thin finger-crack. The fine corner of Open Book is the main feature in the middle of this area and a popular climb.
Approach - Follow the crag-base path until just before the final section of tree cover.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Margarine Arete
The rounded arete, with a brief detour left then back right, at half height.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
2
Whim Top 50
A good route following a line of flakes and cracks.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
3
Windhover
A fine climb that feels run out at the start if the true line is adhered to. Climb cautiously up the white groove and wall to...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E2
4
Ivy Groove
Well protected. Climb up cracks to reach a small corner.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
5
Butter Arete
A bold route taking an excellent line on great rock. Climb leftwards to the arete. Arrange protection at half-height...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
6
Suicide Crack
An immaculate thin crack with good gear. At the upper end of the grade.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3
7
J.T.P
An eliminate that just manages to avoid the easier ground to the right. Follow the jamming and layback crack, passing over some...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
HVS
8
Open Book Top 50
The central line of the recessed bay has some fine climbing.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
S
9
Fall Out
A short but excellent and pumpy crack pitch with good gear.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1
10
Into the Fire
A worthwhile climb that is far better than appearances suggest. Sustained with good but tough-to-place protection.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5
11
A' Cheval
12m. The other gully (the better descent).
 VD
12
Copper Pinnacle
The crack between the gullies is poor.
3 user comments
 HS
13
Squirm
The vegetated gully is a poor descent.
2 user comments
 Diff
14
Silver Shadow
The groove to the peg and headwall.
 
2 Stars
E4
15
Slapalong
Start up Open Book, go easily up right along a ramp to finish up the wall on the left side of the arete.
 
1 Stars
VS
16
Hell's Arete
A good line spoilt by some snappy rock low down. Start at the toe of the vague arete, underneath a crack. Pull up to undercuts,...
 
Technical
Loose
E4
17
A'Cheval
A wide gully best used as a descent.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

    Hornwall
    "Awkward start but soon eases - unfortunately the tree gets in the way a bit" 12/Sep

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "Polished holds, awkward gear and high in the grade. I was very relieved to top o..." 18/Jun

    Suicide Crack
    "if butter arete is E3 then this is E5" 29/May

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