Open Book Area

Adjacent Areas
< Shooting Star Area  |  Inelegance Area >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
8 mins
Sheltered

Excellent lines abound in this area. Cracks, aretes and corners dominate with some particularly good rock in evidence. Suicide Crack is a classic well protected thin finger crack. test-piece.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Margarine Arete
11m. The rounded arête with a brief detour left then back right at half height.
 HVS 5a
2
Whim Top 50
11m. A very good route following a line of flakes and cracks in the wall with good protection.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
3
Windhover
11m. Another fine climb that feels run out at the start if the true line is adhered to. Climb cautiously up the white groove...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E2 5c
4
Ivy Groove
12m. From the right-hand side of a small pinnacle embedded in the ground climb up cracks to reach a small corner and the top.
1 user comment
 VS 4b
5
Butter Arete
12m. A bold route taking an excellent line on great rock. Start right of the arête and climb leftwards onto it, arrange...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
6
Suicide Crack
11m. An immaculate thin crack climb with good gear but hard climbing.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
7
J.T.P
12m. An eliminate that just manages to avoid the easier ground to the right. Follow the jamming and layback crack passing over...
 
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Open Book
12m. The central line of the recessed bay has some fine climbing but be very careful with the large triangular block at half...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S
9
Hells Arete
13m. A good line spoilt by some snappy rock low down. Start at the toe of the vague arête underneath a crack. Pull up to...
 
Technical
Loose
E4 6a
10
Fall Out
11m. A short but excellent crack pitch with good gear and flowing moves.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
11
Into The Fire
10m. A worthwhile climb that is far better than appearances would suggest. Very sustained with good but tough to place...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6a
12
A' Cheval
12m. The other gully (the better descent).
 VD
13
Copper Pinnacle
12m. The crack between the gullies is poor
1 user comment
 HS
14
Squirm
12m. The vegetated gulley (descent possible here)
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Quill
    "Hard for the grade? I don't think so!" 11/Oct

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Finer Feelings
    "my best route to date very pleased with the technical start." 24/Jun top50

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

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