Upper Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
< Gargoyle Buttress Area  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of nice quality rock. This has a maximum height of 8m and forms a series of fine buttresses that, although short, are generally cleaner than the main cliff.
Approach (see map on page 100) - Follow the flagged path over the cliff top then drop rightwards down a ramp to locate the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barefoot
The left arete of the wall past a handy pocket.
2 user comments
 D
2
Slab Happy
The centre of the slab is pleasantly delicate.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
S
3
Step It Up
The slab left of the central groove. A tricky start leads to a crack.
1 user comment
 S
4
Groovy Moves
A shallow groove leads to a bulge - pull through this on jams.
1 user comment
 S
5
Jam On It
The left crack is gained from the left; avoiding Squirm is tricky.
1 user comment
 HVS
6
Squirm
The right crack is also entered from the left - squirmtastic!
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVS
7
Hang 'em High
The short hanging corner from a block eases instantly.
2 user comments
 
Technical
HS
8
Chicken Head
Gain the prow from the right (or left) by a swinging hand-traverse and make a couple of delicate moves to easy ground.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
9
Pleasant
From blocks in the gully follow the slabby arete on the right.
2 user comments
 D
10
Spring Night
Trend left to the left edge of the steep wall and a reachy finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1
11
Autumn Day
A neat micro-route which includes a hard pull on small holds and a long reach for the distant edge.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Rounded
E1
12
Stretch Marks
Gain the initial ledge from the right then climb the wall trending right passing a floral hole to a massive final reach.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1
13
Razor Cut
The thin crack on the right has nice moves, but is very escapable. Beware of the big rocking block near the top.
1 user comment
 
Loose
VS
14
Rocky
The front of the pillar.
1 user comment
 VD
15
Blocky
The crack right of the leaning pillar has an awkward entry.
1 user comment
 HVD
16
Hanging Tree
Pull into the tiny hanging groove on the left-hand side of the overhang from holds on the right. Continue easily.
1 user comment
 HVS
17
Easy Ground
Extend-a-way across the left side of the roof via a neat finger hold in its centre. Passing the lip requires a bit of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
18
Excel
Cross the centre of the roof to an awkward move around the lip. Excellent fun and good practice for The Tippler.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
19
Swinwood
Climb the left arete of the recess and then traverse out onto the front face. Finish up the centre of this.
1 user comment
 E1
20
Smokin'
Climb awkwardly onto the ledge. From the porthole traverse the break out to the arete, and finish up the slab round the corner.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
E1
21
Landing Craft
Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then pass the porthole and a perfect nut slot to reach a taxing exit.
1 user comment
 HVS
22
Amen Corner
The left corner of the recess is reached via an awkward wide crack and climbed steeply.
1 user comment
 HS
23
Old Man's Corner
The grotty right-hand corner of the recess in two stages.
1 user comment
 VD
24
Village Green
Straight up the steep slab, finishing just left of a short crack. Often as green as the name suggests.
2 user comments
 VS
25
Lambo
Follow the thin crack on surprising holds. North-facing and so inclined to be green except after a good dry spell.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
26
Bertie
The leaning wall just right of the arete is climbed on good but spaced holds to a delicate finish where the angle eases. Tough.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
27
Blunt
The centre of the bulging wall via a blunt nose and tricky mantel.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
28
Philby
The right side of the wall, passing a jammed block at 2/3 height.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS
29
Granny Smith
The leaning arete has good holds, and is best climbed quickly.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
30
Cox's Pippin
The roof crack to the right proves to be reachy.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS
31
Ganges
The awkward block-filled chimney is tricky towards the top.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VD
32
Crackless Bottom
The centre of the last buttress of the cliff. Pull into a hanging crack and exit awkwardly.
1 user comment
 E1
33
Soft Top
Start at the right arete of the cliff and climb the flat wall on the right easily (small cams) to an awkward shelving exit.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E1