Upper Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Gargoyle Buttress Area  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
40 mins
Uphill

Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of excellent quality rock. This has a maximum height of 8m and presents a series of fine buttresses that although short are generally cleaner than the main cliff - the northern moor's best answer to Burbage perhaps.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barefoot
The left arete of the wall past a handy pocket.
 D
2
Slab Happy
The centre of the slab is pleasantly delicate.
 
Rounded
S 4a
3
Step It Up
The slab left of the central groove. A tricky start leads to a crack.
 S 4c
4
Groovy Moves
A shallow groove leads to a bulge, pull through on jams.
 S 4b
5
Jam On It
The left crack is gained from the left, avoiding Squirm is tricky.
 HVS 5a
6
Squirm
The right crack is also entered from the left - squirmtastic!
 
Graunchy
HVS 5a
7
Hang 'em High
The short hanging corner from a block and eases instantly.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 5b
8
Chicken Head
Gain the prow from the right (or left) by a swinging hand traverse and make a couple of delicate moves to easy ground.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
9
Pleasant
From blocks in the gully follow the slabby arete on the right.
 D
10
Spring Night
Trend left to the left edge of the steep wall and a reachy finish.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5c
11
Autumn Day
A neat micro-route which includes a hard pull on small holds and a long reach for the distant edge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Rounded
E1 5c
12
Stretch Marks
Gain the initial ledge from the right then climb the wall trending right passing a floral hole to a massive final reach.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1 6a
13
Razor Cut
The thin crack on the right has nice moves, but is very escapable. Beware of the big rocking block near the top.
 VS 4b
14
Rocky
The front of the pillar.
 VD
15
Blocky
The crack right of the leaning pillar has an awkward entry.
 HVD 4a
16
Hanging Tree
Pull into the tiny hanging groove on the left-hand side of the overhang from holds on the right. Continue easily.
 HVS 5b
17
Easy Ground
Extend a way across the left side of the roof is via a neat finger hold in its centre. Passing the lip requires a bit of...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
18
Excel
Cross the centre of the roof to an awkward move around the lip. Excellent fun and good practice for The Tippler.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
19
Swinwood
Climb the left arete of the recess and then traverse out onto the front face. Finish up the centre of this.
 E1 5b
20
Smokin'
Climb awkwardly on to the ledge. From the porthole traverse the break out to the arete, finish up delicate slab round the...
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
21
Landing Craft
Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then pass the porthole and a perfect nut slot to reach a taxing exit.
 HVS 5b
22
Amen Corner
The left corner of the recess is reached via an awkward wide crack and climbed steeply.
 HS 4c
23
Old Man's Corner
The grotty right-hand corner of the recess in two stages.
 VD
24
Village Green
Straight up the steep slab finishing just left of a short crack. Often as green as the name suggests.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
25
Iambo
Follow the thin crack on surprising holds. North-facing and so inclined to be green except after a good dry spell.
 
1 Stars
S 4b
26
Bertie
The leaning wall just right of the arete is climbed on good but spaced holds to a delicate finish where the angle eases. Tough.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
27
Blunt
The centre of the bulging wall via a blunt nose and tricky mantel.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
28
Philby
The right side of the wall, passing a jammed block at 2/3 height.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS 5b
29
Granny Smith
The leaning arete has good holds, and is best climbed quickly.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
30
Cox's Pippin
The roof crack to the right proves to be reachy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
31
Ganges
The awkward block-filled chimney is tricky towards the top.
 
Graunchy
VD
32
Crackless Bottom
The centre of the last buttress of the cliff. Pull into a hanging crack and exit awkwardly.
 E1 5b
33
Soft Top
Start at the right arete of the cliff and climb the flat wall on the right easily (small cams) to an awkward shelving exit.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E1 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

    Poll Taxed
    "Where does this route go? I tried it at the weekend, but couldn't work out if yo..." 12/Jun

    Soft Top
    "Top is a bit smooth, I went up to the right which is technically harder but less..." 09/Jun

    Autumn Day
    "No way is the top move 5b!" 02/May

    Great Buttress
    "did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final sla..." 10/Sep top50

    Fennario
    "Tricky moves for a 4b start, loose and tricky to gain ledge." 22/Aug

    Gruyere
    "Confident layback move to gain nose. Plenty of gear makes it safe." 22/Aug

    Search for comments