Adjacent Areas
< Gargoyle and Route 1 Buttresses | None >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
40 minsWindy
Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of excellent quality rock. This has a maximum height of 8m and presents a series of fine buttresses that although short are generally cleaner than the main cliff - the northern moor's best answer to Burbage perhaps. Guidebook page 80.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Barefoot 6m. The left arete of the wall past a handy pocket. | D | |
2 |
Slab Happy 6m. The centre of the slab is pleasantly delicate. | S 4a | |
3 |
Step It Up 6m. The slab just to the left of the central groove has a tricky start and soon leads to a deep crack. | S 4c | |
4 |
Groovy Moves 6m. A shallow right-facing groove leads to a bulge. Pull over this on jams and continue direct. | S 4b | |
5 |
Jam On It 6m. The left-hand crack is entered from the left and is easier than it looks. You may end up with one foot in the next climb. | HVS 5a | |
6 |
Squirm 6m. The right-hand crack is also entered from the left and as the name suggests is squirmtastic! | Graunchy | HVS 5a |
7 |
Hang 'em High 4m. The short hanging corner is entered with difficulty from a block (flick in some overhead protection) and eases instantly. 1 user comment | Technical | HS 5b |
8 |
Chicken Head 6m. Gain the prow from the right (or left) by a swinging hand traverse and make a couple of delicate moves to easy ground. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
9 |
Pleasant 6m. From blocks in the gully follow the slabby arete on the right. | D | |
10 |
Spring Night 8m. Trend left to climb the left edge of the steep striated wall on good horizontal breaks to a reachy finish. | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
11 |
Autumn Day 8m. A great micro-route up the centre of the wall via a hard pull on small holds and a long reach for the final rounded edge. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Crimpy Rounded | E1 5c |
12 |
Stretch Marks 8m. Gain the initial ledge from the right then climb the wall trending right passing a floral hole to an extended final reach. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E1 6a |
13 |
Razor Cut 8m. The thin crack on the right side of the wall has nice moves, pity it is escapable. Beware of the big rocking block near the... | VS 4b | |
14 |
Rocky 6m. The front of the pillar. | VD | |
15 |
Blocky 6m. The crack on the right side of the leaning pillar of rock has an awkward entry. | HVD | |
16 |
Hanging Tree 8m. Pull into the tiny hanging groove on the left-hand side of the overhang from holds on the right. Continue easily. | HVS 5b | |
17 |
Easy Ground 8m. Extend a way across the left-hand side of the roof via a perfect finger hold in its centre. Passing the lip requires a bit... | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
18 |
Excel 8m. Cross the centre of the roof to an awkward move around the lip. Excellent fun and good practice for The Tippler. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
19 |
Swinwood 8m. Climb the left arete of the square recess until it is possible to traverse out onto the front face. Finish up the centre of... | E1 5b | |
20 |
Smokin' 10m. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then from the porthole traverse the improving break out left to the arete. Climb the short... | Pumpy | E1 5b |
21 |
Landing Craft 6m. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then pass the porthole and a perfect nut slot to reach a taxing exit. | HVS 5b | |
22 |
Amen Corner 6m. The left corner of the recess is reached via an awkward wide crack and climbed steeply. | HS 4b | |
23 |
Old Man's Corner 6m. The often rather lurid right-hand corner of the recess is climbed in two stages. | VD | |
24 |
Village Green 6m. Climb straight up the steep slab finishing just left of a short crack - often as green as the name suggests. 1 user comment | VS 5a | |
25 |
Iambo 6m. Follow the thin crack rightwards on surprising holds. North-facing and so often green! | 1 Stars | S 4b |
26 |
Bertie 8m. The leaning wall just right of the arete is climbed on good but spaced holds to a more delicate finish where the angle... | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
27 |
Blunt 8m. Head up the centre of the bulging wall via a blunt nose and tricky mantelshelf. | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
28 |
Philby 8m. The right side of the wall, passing an elongated jammed block at two-thirds height. | HVS 5a | |
29 |
Granny Smith 8m. The sharp overhanging arete fortunately has a good set of holds, though the angle means it is best climbed quickly. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
30 |
Cox's Pippin 8m. The roof crack to the right proves to be reachy. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | HVS 5b |
31 |
Ganges 8m. The awkward block-filled chimney is tricky towards the top. | Graunchy | VD |
32 |
Crackless Bottom 8m. The centre of the right-hand buttress of the cliff. Pull into a hanging crack and exit awkwardly. | E1 5b | |
33 |
Soft Top 6m. Start at the right arete of the cliff and climb the flat wall on the right easily (small Friends) to an awkward shelving... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E1 5a |
