Upper Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
< Gargoyle Buttress Area  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of nice quality rock. This has a maximum height of 8m and forms a series of fine buttresses that, although short, are generally cleaner than the main cliff.
Approach (see map on page 100) - Follow the flagged path over the cliff top then drop rightwards down a ramp to locate the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barefoot
The left arete of the wall past a handy pocket.
2 user comments
 Diff
2
Slab Happy
The centre of the slab is pleasantly delicate.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
S
3
Step It Up
The slab left of the central groove. A tricky start leads to a crack.
1 user comment
 S
4
Groovy Moves
A shallow groove leads to a bulge - pull through this on jams.
1 user comment
 S
5
Jam On It
The left crack is gained from the left; avoiding Squirm is tricky.
1 user comment
 HVS
6
Squirm
The right crack is also entered from the left - squirmtastic!
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVS
7
Hang 'em High
The short hanging corner from a block eases instantly.
2 user comments
 
Technical
HS
8
Chicken Head
Gain the prow from the right (or left) by a swinging hand-traverse and make a couple of delicate moves to easy ground.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
9
Pleasant
From blocks in the gully follow the slabby arete on the right.
2 user comments
 Diff
10
Spring Night
Trend left to the left edge of the steep wall and a reachy finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1
11
Autumn Day
A neat micro-route which includes a hard pull on small holds and a long reach for the distant edge.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Rounded
E1
12
Stretch Marks
Gain the initial ledge from the right then climb the wall trending right passing a floral hole to a massive final reach.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1
13
Razor Cut
The thin crack on the right has nice moves, but is very escapable. Beware of the big rocking block near the top.
1 user comment
 
Loose
VS
14
Rocky
The front of the pillar.
1 user comment
 VD
15
Blocky
The crack right of the leaning pillar has an awkward entry.
1 user comment
 HVD
16
Hanging Tree
Pull into the tiny hanging groove on the left-hand side of the overhang from holds on the right. Continue easily.
1 user comment
 HVS
17
Easy Ground
Extend-a-way across the left side of the roof via a neat finger hold in its centre. Passing the lip requires a bit of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
18
Excel
Cross the centre of the roof to an awkward move around the lip. Excellent fun and good practice for The Tippler.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
19
Swinwood
Climb the left arete of the recess and then traverse out onto the front face. Finish up the centre of this.
1 user comment
 E1
20
Smokin'
Climb awkwardly onto the ledge. From the porthole traverse the break out to the arete, and finish up the slab round the corner.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
E1
21
Landing Craft
Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then pass the porthole and a perfect nut slot to reach a taxing exit.
1 user comment
 HVS
22
Amen Corner
The left corner of the recess is reached via an awkward wide crack and climbed steeply.
1 user comment
 HS
23
Old Man's Corner
The grotty right-hand corner of the recess in two stages.
1 user comment
 VD
24
Village Green
Straight up the steep slab, finishing just left of a short crack. Often as green as the name suggests.
2 user comments
 VS
25
Lambo
Follow the thin crack on surprising holds. North-facing and so inclined to be green except after a good dry spell.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
26
Bertie
The leaning wall just right of the arete is climbed on good but spaced holds to a delicate finish where the angle eases. Tough.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
27
Blunt
The centre of the bulging wall via a blunt nose and tricky mantel.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
28
Philby
The right side of the wall, passing a jammed block at 2/3 height.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS
29
Granny Smith
The leaning arete has good holds, and is best climbed quickly.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
30
Cox's Pippin
The roof crack to the right proves to be reachy.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS
31
Ganges
The awkward block-filled chimney is tricky towards the top.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VD
32
Crackless Bottom
The centre of the last buttress of the cliff. Pull into a hanging crack and exit awkwardly.
1 user comment
 E1
33
Soft Top
Start at the right arete of the cliff and climb the flat wall on the right easily (small cams) to an awkward shelving exit.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E1
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

    Poll Taxed
    "Where does this route go? I tried it at the weekend, but couldn't work out if yo..." 12/Jun

    Soft Top
    "Top is a bit smooth, I went up to the right which is technically harder but less..." 09/Jun

    Autumn Day
    "No way is the top move 5b!" 02/May

    Great Buttress
    "did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final sla..." 10/Sep top50

    Fennario
    "Tricky moves for a 4b start, loose and tricky to gain ledge." 22/Aug

    Gruyère
    "Confident layback move to gain nose. Plenty of gear makes it safe." 22/Aug

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