Upper Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Gargoyle and Route 1 Buttresses  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
40 mins

Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of excellent quality rock. This has a maximum height of 8m and presents a series of fine buttresses that although short are generally cleaner than the main cliff - the northern moor's best answer to Burbage perhaps. Guidebook page 80.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barefoot
6m. The left arete of the wall past a handy pocket.
 D
2
Slab Happy
6m. The centre of the slab is pleasantly delicate.
 S 4a
3
Step It Up
6m. The slab just to the left of the central groove has a tricky start and soon leads to a deep crack.
 S 4c
4
Groovy Moves
6m. A shallow right-facing groove leads to a bulge. Pull over this on jams and continue direct.
 S 4b
5
Jam On It
6m. The left-hand crack is entered from the left and is easier than it looks. You may end up with one foot in the next climb.
 HVS 5a
6
Squirm
6m. The right-hand crack is also entered from the left and as the name suggests is squirmtastic!
 
Graunchy
HVS 5a
7
Hang 'em High
4m. The short hanging corner is entered with difficulty from a block (flick in some overhead protection) and eases instantly.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 5b
8
Chicken Head
6m. Gain the prow from the right (or left) by a swinging hand traverse and make a couple of delicate moves to easy ground.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
9
Pleasant
6m. From blocks in the gully follow the slabby arete on the right.
 D
10
Spring Night
8m. Trend left to climb the left edge of the steep striated wall on good horizontal breaks to a reachy finish.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
11
Autumn Day
8m. A great micro-route up the centre of the wall via a hard pull on small holds and a long reach for the final rounded edge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Rounded
E1 5c
12
Stretch Marks
8m. Gain the initial ledge from the right then climb the wall trending right passing a floral hole to an extended final reach.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1 6a
13
Razor Cut
8m. The thin crack on the right side of the wall has nice moves, pity it is escapable. Beware of the big rocking block near the...
 VS 4b
14
Rocky
6m. The front of the pillar.
 VD
15
Blocky
6m. The crack on the right side of the leaning pillar of rock has an awkward entry.
 HVD
16
Hanging Tree
8m. Pull into the tiny hanging groove on the left-hand side of the overhang from holds on the right. Continue easily.
 HVS 5b
17
Easy Ground
8m. Extend a way across the left-hand side of the roof via a perfect finger hold in its centre. Passing the lip requires a bit...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
18
Excel
8m. Cross the centre of the roof to an awkward move around the lip. Excellent fun and good practice for The Tippler.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
19
Swinwood
8m. Climb the left arete of the square recess until it is possible to traverse out onto the front face. Finish up the centre of...
 E1 5b
20
Smokin'
10m. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then from the porthole traverse the improving break out left to the arete. Climb the short...
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
21
Landing Craft
6m. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge then pass the porthole and a perfect nut slot to reach a taxing exit.
 HVS 5b
22
Amen Corner
6m. The left corner of the recess is reached via an awkward wide crack and climbed steeply.
 HS 4b
23
Old Man's Corner
6m. The often rather lurid right-hand corner of the recess is climbed in two stages.
 VD
24
Village Green
6m. Climb straight up the steep slab finishing just left of a short crack - often as green as the name suggests.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
25
Iambo
6m. Follow the thin crack rightwards on surprising holds. North-facing and so often green!
 
1 Stars
S 4b
26
Bertie
8m. The leaning wall just right of the arete is climbed on good but spaced holds to a more delicate finish where the angle...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
27
Blunt
8m. Head up the centre of the bulging wall via a blunt nose and tricky mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
28
Philby
8m. The right side of the wall, passing an elongated jammed block at two-thirds height.
 HVS 5a
29
Granny Smith
8m. The sharp overhanging arete fortunately has a good set of holds, though the angle means it is best climbed quickly.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
30
Cox's Pippin
8m. The roof crack to the right proves to be reachy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
31
Ganges
8m. The awkward block-filled chimney is tricky towards the top.
 
Graunchy
VD
32
Crackless Bottom
8m. The centre of the right-hand buttress of the cliff. Pull into a hanging crack and exit awkwardly.
 E1 5b
33
Soft Top
6m. Start at the right arete of the cliff and climb the flat wall on the right easily (small Friends) to an awkward shelving...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E1 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Sforzando
    "I repeated it about ten years ago. I wouldn't complain if the grade was revised ..." 20/Jun

    Poll Taxed
    "Where does this route go? I tried it at the weekend, but couldn't work out if yo..." 12/Jun

    Soft Top
    "Top is a bit smooth, I went up to the right which is technically harder but less..." 09/Jun

    Autumn Day
    "No way is the top move 5b!" 02/May

    Great Buttress
    "did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final sla..." 10/Sep top50

    Fennario
    "Tricky moves for a 4b start, loose and tricky to gain ledge." 22/Aug

    Gruyere
    "Confident layback move to gain nose. Plenty of gear makes it safe." 22/Aug

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