Adjacent Areas
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10 minsThe first section of Gardom's is not the most welcoming bit of rock, with large damp overhangs, facing north-west and neglected. However there are a few things of interest and the wall is always a good option in hot weather, providing the midges aren’t out. For hard routes Mickey Finn and Spanish Fly are modern classics. Of the rest, Sleeping Sickness, Four Horsemen and Vaya Con Dios are the pick, the latter appealing to the more perverted gritstone enthusiasts. Guidebook page 320.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Black Wall Rt II 10m. A thin flake leads to a troublesome bulge, a tree, and a flake to finish. Usually very dirty. | Reachy Rounded | VS 5a |
2 |
Promise 12m. Interesting but devious and usually dirty. Traverse right to a ledge, move up, then traverse back left to a jammed flake.... | Rounded | HVS 5a |
3 |
Tsetse Fly 14m. Start below the hanging groove bounding the left edge of the overhang. From a flake, gain a ledge where reachy moves... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E1 5c |
4 |
Raging Insomnia 15m. Climb to the roof using a flake-crack. Undercut moves lead left to better holds and a difficult move to gain the hanging... | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
5 |
Mickey Finn 14m. Start as for Raging Insomnia but instead of slinking off, tackle the stacked bulges direct by great but tenuous climbing. | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Strong | E6 6b |
6 |
Sleeping Sickness 14m. Gain the thin crack in the left wall of Brown Crack then traverse left below the roof to the front face and a reachy... | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E3 5c |
7 |
Good Karma 10m. Short-lived but tenuous moves straight up the wall. | Reachy Technical Rounded | E4 6b |
8 |
Brown Crack 12m. The groove that bounds the right-hand side of the overhangs was the first route on the edge and remains a struggle. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Graunchy | VD |
9 |
The Rattle 10m. Mantel left out from under the roof then head right via the meadows to the finishing flake. | Strong | HVS 5a |
10 |
Diamond Back 10m. The arete saves its crux until last, a long reach on the right. | Reachy | E2 5c |
11 |
Thunder 12m. The left-hand line on the north wall. Climb leftwards via a couple of cracks a grubby niche and a corner. It is also... | VS 4c | |
12 |
Four Horsemen 12m. Climb up to the prominent niche in the centre of the wall then continue direct to an awkward exit. | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy Rounded | E2 5b |
13 |
Lightning Wall 16m. Devious and exciting. From Four Horsemen's niche, follow the descending break until past the arete and then finish... | Pumpy Rounded | HVS 5a |
14 |
The Igloo 14m. Pull over the overhang just left of the arete and climb the wall leftwards to finish as for Four Horsemen. | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
15 |
Spanish Fly 14m. The large roofs are tackled centrally (poor wires in the flakes in the roof and RP1 above) to gain the front face and a... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Rounded | E6 6c |
16 |
Vaya Con Dios 20m. Gritstone weirdness at its greatest. Climb the chockstoned crack in the south face to a horizontal break then squirm along... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Graunchy | E2 5c |
17 |
Overhang Buttress Ordinary 12m. Intimidating and awkward - for those who find passing the arete on the previous route too much, it is possible to writhe... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
18 |
Infirmary Groove 10m. Climb the initial crack then follow its awkward continuation rightwards up the wall to a heathery landing. | HS 4a | |
