Black Wall and Overhang Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Level
10 mins
Sheltered

The first section of Gardom's is not the most welcoming bit of rock, with large damp overhangs, facing north-west and neglected. However there are a few things of interest and the wall is always a good option in hot weather, providing the midges arenít out. For hard routes Mickey Finn and Spanish Fly are modern classics. Of the rest, Sleeping Sickness, Four Horsemen and Vaya Con Dios are the pick, the latter appealing to the more perverted gritstone enthusiasts. Guidebook page 320.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Wall Rt II
10m. A thin flake leads to a troublesome bulge, a tree, and a flake to finish. Usually very dirty.
 
Reachy
Rounded
VS 5a
2
Promise
12m. Interesting but devious and usually dirty. Traverse right to a ledge, move up, then traverse back left to a jammed flake....
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
3
Tsetse Fly
14m. Start below the hanging groove bounding the left edge of the overhang. From a flake, gain a ledge where reachy moves...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5c
4
Raging Insomnia
15m. Climb to the roof using a flake-crack. Undercut moves lead left to better holds and a difficult move to gain the hanging...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
5
Mickey Finn
14m. Start as for Raging Insomnia but instead of slinking off, tackle the stacked bulges direct by great but tenuous climbing.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
E6 6b
6
Sleeping Sickness
14m. Gain the thin crack in the left wall of Brown Crack then traverse left below the roof to the front face and a reachy...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E3 5c
7
Good Karma
10m. Short-lived but tenuous moves straight up the wall.
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4 6b
8
Brown Crack
12m. The groove that bounds the right-hand side of the overhangs was the first route on the edge and remains a struggle.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
VD
9
The Rattle
10m. Mantel left out from under the roof then head right via the meadows to the finishing flake.
 
Strong
HVS 5a
10
Diamond Back
10m. The arete saves its crux until last, a long reach on the right.
 
Reachy
E2 5c
11
Thunder
12m. The left-hand line on the north wall. Climb leftwards via a couple of cracks a grubby niche and a corner. It is also...
 VS 4c
12
Four Horsemen
12m. Climb up to the prominent niche in the centre of the wall then continue direct to an awkward exit.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5b
13
Lightning Wall
16m. Devious and exciting. From Four Horsemen's niche, follow the descending break until past the arete and then finish...
 
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5a
14
The Igloo
14m. Pull over the overhang just left of the arete and climb the wall leftwards to finish as for Four Horsemen.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
15
Spanish Fly
14m. The large roofs are tackled centrally (poor wires in the flakes in the roof and RP1 above) to gain the front face and a...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E6 6c
16
Vaya Con Dios
20m. Gritstone weirdness at its greatest. Climb the chockstoned crack in the south face to a horizontal break then squirm along...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E2 5c
17
Overhang Buttress Ordinary
12m. Intimidating and awkward - for those who find passing the arete on the previous route too much, it is possible to writhe...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
18
Infirmary Groove
10m. Climb the initial crack then follow its awkward continuation rightwards up the wall to a heathery landing.
 HS 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOMS

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

    The Enigma Variation
    "A good little route that packs it in on very steep rock. Reasonable cams and hol..." 16/Aug

    Moyer's Buttress
    "No in situ sling. But a hands-off kneebar rest by the block. Ace!" 06/Aug top50

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