Black Wall

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Overhang Buttress >

Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Level
Sheltered

The first section of Gardom's is not the best, facing northwest, with large damp overhangs and a neglected air. However there are a few things of interest and the wall is a good option in hot weather, providing the midges aren't out.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Wall Rt I
The wall right of the arete has a mantel start and awkward finish.
 S
2
Black Wall Rt II
A thin flake leads to a troublesome bulge, a tree, and a bigger flake to finish. Usually very dirty.
 VS
3
Promise
Interesting but devious and usually dirty. Traverse right to a ledge, move up, then traverse back left to a jammed flake....
 HVS
4
Tsetse Fly
Start below the hanging corner bounding the left edge of the big overhang. From a flake, gain a ledge where reachy moves access...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
5
Narcolepsy
Use a thin flake and slopers to access a ledge - bold and tricky. At the roof, escape out right.
 
Technical
HVS
6
Raging Insomnia
Climb Narcolepsy to the roof, undercut left to better holds and a difficult move to gain the hanging arete. Finish more easily.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
7
Mickey Finn
Start as for Raging Insomnia and tackle the stacked bulges direct. Superb, well protected and not TOO hard.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E6
8
Sleeping Sickness
Climb the tough thin crack in the left wall of Brown Crack then traverse left below the roof to the front face and a reachy...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E3
9
Good Karma
Short-lived but tenuous moves straight up the wall.
 
Technical
E4
10
Brown Crack
The groove that bounds the right-hand side of the overhangs was the first route on the edge and remains a tricky struggle.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
S
11
The Rattle
Mantle left out from under the roof heading left and then right via the meadows to the finishing flake.
 
Strong
HVS
12
Diamond Back
The arete saves its crux until the end - a long reach on the right.
 E2