Lower Tier

Adjacent Areas
< Middle Tier  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

The crag has a couple of reasonable easier routes but the rock is not as good as first appearances may suggest. The belays at the top of the crag are awkward to arrange and some are a long way up the slope.
Approach - It is usually approached from below. Cross the fence by the ford and walk up the valley for 100m. Cross the small stream and walk steeply up the scree to the right-hand edge of the crag. It can be approached from above by dropping down a steep gully from the Middle Tier.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Diamond Solitaire
Climb up the vegetated corner to the diamond-shaped roof. Move right beneath the bulges to finish up past a tree.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E2
2
Diamond
Climb the steep corner-line from the left side of the diamond-shaped roof.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Loose
VS
3
Prel
Climb the blank wall leftwards into Diamond Solitaire.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3
4
Grass
Now totally overgrown.
2 user comments
 
Loose
HVD
5
Sunspots
The arete is serious with some poor rock at the top.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
HVS
6
Pisa
Very overgrown.
2 user comments
 
Loose
S
7
Hypertension
The blank wall past a slim horizontal break (peg). Loose.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
E3
8
Holly Tree Wall
The wall left of the small ground-level cave, moving right into the small corner-line of Cato. Very loose.
2 user comments
 
Loose
S
9
Cato
From the right-hand side of the ground-level cave, move left into the small corner-line. Loose.
2 user comments
 
Loose
S
10
Carter U.C.M
Hard moves up to and past a bolt, gain a loose but easier finish.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
E2
11
The Cause
The short wall, via a thin crack, to the tree.
2 user comments
 
Technical
HVS
12
Plasuchaf Crack
The steep and sustained flake-crack.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S
13
Muscle Bound
The thin crack in the wall.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Loose
E2
14
Spetsnaz
The blank wall past a bolt at mid height. Easier above.
2 user comments
 
Technical
E2
15
Icicle of Death
Move up right to the roofs before traversing left to clear the largest of them. Finishing up a line of weakness just right.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E3
16
Caveman Wall
A poor line.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E2
17
Pleurnum
12m. The fine looking right facing corner come flake line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
18
Brinkman
The crack leads to a loose finish.
2 user comments
 
Loose
E2
19
Kinky
Climb the blank wall, past a bolt, to a loose finish.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Loose
E2
20
La Di Da
Climb the roof-capped corner and finish over the roof.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
E2
21
Black Out
The wide corner/groove to the right of a large blunt arete.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VS
22
Black Dog
The wall past a small overhang.
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS
23
Ganjah
The corner and continuation groove.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
S
24
Brown Cracks
The dangerously loose corner.
2 user comments
 
Loose
S
25
Picture Arete
The arete passing the big curving crack.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VS
26
Nose
Climb the cracks left of the gully.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VD
27
Ouja Chimney
The inset gully has loose scree at its top.
2 user comments
 
Loose
Diff
28
Planerium
The fine-looking right-facing corner-flake. Take care at the top as loose rock is easily knocked down. AKA Pleurnum.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
S
  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

    Hornwall
    "Awkward start but soon eases - unfortunately the tree gets in the way a bit" 12/Sep

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "Polished holds, awkward gear and high in the grade. I was very relieved to top o..." 18/Jun

    Suicide Crack
    "if butter arete is E3 then this is E5" 29/May

    Insecure
    "I climbed this route just before the rockfax guide came out, the old guide gave ..." 07/Apr

    Ashgrove Prelims
    "extremely polished" 27/Mar

    Twisting Corner
    "Easy climbing all the way tho getting a bit polished now" 31/Jul

    Whim
    "Very good, well protected HVS. The climbing is interesting from the time you ent..." 30/Jul top50

    Cornucopia
    "HVS 5a my arse! If someone had told me it was a slightly bold/pokey E1 5b i'd no..." 17/Jul

    Insecure
    "watched climbing partner take a large whipper on on this one, hence the handy n..." 19/Jun

    Hornblower
    "Bold. It may be a well protected crack line, but only once you have done the cru..." 11/Jun

    Search for comments