Nowanda

Trad
Sun and Shade
Level
10 mins
Sheltered

A small buttress which has a green north-facing slab (with a less well-known Moyer's Climb) and a south-facing wall with two fine cracks which catch the sun. Guidebook page 322.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Traction
10m. The centre of the buttress starting up a crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS 4b
2
Gardom's Gate
10m. The groove in the right arete is climbed to a ledge, where a traverse left leads around to a finish on the north wall.
1 user comment
 VD
3
Corner-crack
10m. The gritty angle on the left-hand side of the buttress.
 D
4
Grey Crack
10m. The short-lived crack in the right wall.
 VD
5
Attraction
10m. The blunt arete is one for lovers of green mantels.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 5a
6
Moyer's Climb
14m. From the left edge of the front face, balance right to a finish on the right arete - a touch bold.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
S 4a
7
Moyer's Variation
12m. The flaky centre of the face soon eases after a rather awkward start using undercuts.
3 user comments
 
Technical
S 4a
8
Social Fools
10m. The right arete of the buttress is started on the right, then swing left and balance up the front face.
 E1 5b
9
Little Wanda
10m. The right-hand side of the arete. The start is steep and the rest is pleasant though rather artificial.
 E2 5c
10
Nowanda
12m. The first crack in the south-facing wall is worth seeking out by those in search of well protected jamming - excellent...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
11
Landsick
14m. Take the right-hand crack to its end, then swing right with Diculty, pull-up to reach a flat hold and heathery ground.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E1 5b
12
Landsick Direct
12m. Climb direct from the crack by a fierce couple of moves on sloping holds. Still possible despite the broken hold at the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOMS

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

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