Twilight Tower Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Lower Tier >

Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

A beautifully located spot with a number of worthwhile routes that are always quiet and worth the approach walk. The crag is very exposed and dries quickly but catches the wind so is not a good place to be in poor weather.
Approach - From above the scree at the top of the approach gully, head left on a narrow path to the start of the Upper Tier.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
On Line
Power up the steep layback flake to reach easier climbing.
2 user comments
 
Strong
S
2
Extension
The rounded arete is slightly loose on its upper half.
3 user comments
 
Loose
VS
3
Funeral Corner Top 50
A little gem situated high above the valley, at the tip of Twilight Tower Buttress. The perfect corner is a delight to climb -...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS
4
Inter Digital Pause
The arete right of Funeral Corner has a hard move high up past an old peg.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
HVS
5
Penetration Factor
An excellent and exposed route that follows the thin finger-crack and airy layback flake splitting the buttress.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
6
Sidestep
Climb the thin crack-line and take the right-hand fork where the crack splits to join a deep body-sized crack. Finish up the...
2 user comments
 
Loose
HVS
7
Loran
Good climbing following the flake-crack and groove to a blocky bulge beneath a dead yew tree. Pull up past the tree and climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S
8
Sunday Driver
A great route on immaculate rock following the wall and slab using a series of disjointed cracks.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
9
Going to a Go Go
12m. The direct line up the centre of the main buttress is worth the walk up especially if combined with the sport routes in...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
10
Go-a-Go-Go
Fine climbing following the flake-crack in the wall. Start up High Impedance to the roof, then reach out left to access the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
11
High Impedance
Wild, well-protected climbing, that requires a bit of thought and a lot of brawn to surmount the wide roof.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2
12
Attenuation
An eliminate up the narrow buttress between the cracks with a technical finish up a short smooth groove.
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS
13
Moncrieff
The unappealing wide crack has several loose blocks.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VD
14
Ivy Tower Chimney
Climb past the low tree and up the left-hand chimney using ivy as much as rock to gain height.
2 user comments
 VD
15
Cow Parsley
Start up Ivy Tower Chimney and then follow the right-hand chimney above the tree.
2 user comments
 VD
16
Skullion
Start at the foot of a large rectangular flaky niche. Climb to the top of the niche and continue up the cracked wall above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
17
The Clearout
The steep, loose, blocky crack is best avoided.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VS
18
Eclipse
A worthwhile route that goes up the steep slab using a series of shallow scoops.
2 user comments
 
Technical
HVS
19
Onegin
The wide crack is becoming obscured by the tree.
2 user comments
 S
20
To Cut a Long Story Short
Climb the short corner right of the yew tree. Bold.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
VS
21
Pride
Good easy climbing up the crack-line right of the tree.
2 user comments
 VD
22
Prejudice
The deep crack.
2 user comments
 Diff
23
Flawse
A poor route up the crack-line in the vague arete.
2 user comments
 
Loose
VD
24
Sloth
A good route that tackles the hand-sized crack just left of a small cave.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VD
25
Ruth's Ramble
Follow the broken crack system past two dead yew trees and up the slabby groove to the top.
 VD
26
Hell Drivers
The thin bolted wall.
 7a+
27
Wood Pigeon Crack
A steep pitch that starts by a short V-groove right of a tree. Climb the groove to a small overlap then move right to finish up...
 
Pumpy
HS
28
Goin' to a Go Go
The direct line up the centre of the main buttress is excellent. A bouldery start accesses intricate face climbing. Finish...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
29
Helme's Highway
Follow the thin corner-crack and V-groove with an awkward move at half-height.
 S
  • Latest Comments

    For TWILIGHT AREA

    Bitter Ender
    "Could do with some of the loose blocks sorting out :/" 30/Jun

    Penetration Factor
    "Good climb, tricky start" 30/Aug

    High Impedance
    "A great traditional tussel" 25/Sep

    Jittering Tower
    "Yep - poor protection in the middle. The direct route through the crack is very ..." 30/May

    Disappear
    "New sport route to the left of "Spiderpig": "Charlie's Podium&q..." 05/Aug

    No Grips
    "Nice little route bold though 5c if you go direct at the start and better" 06/May

    Happy Valley
    "Nice, straightforward, not sustained, not much gear. Low in the grade I think." 08/May

    Jittering Tower
    "Poorly protected in the middle section and therefore should be E1" 06/May

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