Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 minsWindy
A magnificently located spot with a number of worthwhile lines that are very unlikely to have other teams climbing them. The rock is on the whole good and protection is mainly from nuts and cams. Some strong lines are in evidence and give a few good easier climbs worth the longish approach walk. The crag is very exposed and is quick to dry but catches the wind so is not a good place to be in poor weather.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
On Line 12m. Power up the steep layback flake to reach easier climbing above. | Strong | S 4a |
2 |
Extension 12m. The rounded arete is slightly loose in its upper half. 1 user comment | Loose | VS 4c |
3 |
Funeral Corner Top 50 12m. High above the valley at the tip of Twilight Tower Buttress you will find this little gem, a perfect corner superbly... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4a |
4 |
Inter Digital Pause 12m. The arete right of Funeral Corner has a hard move high up past an old peg. | Pumpy | HVS 5a |
5 |
Penetration Factor 12m. An excellent and exposed route that follows the thin finger crack and airy layback flake splitting the buttress. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
6 |
Sidestep 12m. Climb the thin crack-line immediately right of Penetration Factor taking the right-hand fork where the crack splits to... | Loose | HVS 4c |
7 |
Ruth’s Ramble 12m. Follow the broken crack system past two dead yew trees and up the slabby groove to the top. | VD | |
8 |
Loran 12m. Good climbing following the flake crack and groove to a blocky bulge beneath a dead yew tree, pull up past the tree and... | 1 Stars Technical | S 4a |
9 |
Sunday Driver 12m. A choice route on immaculate rock climbing the wall and slab right of Loran utilising a series of disjointed cracks. | 1 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
10 |
Woodpigeon Crack 12m. A steep pitch that starts by a short v-groove right of an elderberry tree. Climb the groove to a small overlap then move... 1 user comment | Pumpy | HS 4a |
11 |
Going to a Go Go 12m. The direct line up the centre of the main buttress is worth the walk up especially if combined with the sport routes in... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
12 |
Go-a-Go-Go 12m. Fine climbing following the flake crack in the wall right of Going To A Go Go. Start up High Impedance to the roof then... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
13 |
High Impedance 12m. Wild well-protected climbing that requires a bit of thought and a lot of brawn to surmount the wide roof. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E2 5c |
14 |
Attenuation 12m. An eliminate that climbs the narrow buttress between the cracks with a technical finish up a short smooth groove. | Technical | VS 4c |
15 |
Moncrieff 12m. The unappealing wide crack contains several loose blocks. | Loose | VD |
16 |
Ivy Tower Chimney 12m. Climb past the low tree and up the left-hand chimney using ivy as much as rock to gain height. | VD | |
17 |
Cow Parsley 12m. The right-hand chimney above the tree is better and less vegetated. | VD | |
18 |
Skullion 12m. A good climb that starts at the foot of a large rectangular flaky niche. Climb to the top of the niche and continue up the... | 1 Stars Technical | VS 4b |
19 |
The Clearout 12m. The steep loose blocky crack is best avoided. | Loose | VS 4b |
20 |
Helme’s Highway 12m. Follow the thin corner crack and v-groove with an awkward move at half-height. | S 4a | |
21 |
Eclipse 12m. A worthwhile route that climbs the steep slab left of Onegin using a series of shallow scoops. | Technical | HVS 5a |
22 |
Onegin 12m. The wide crack is becoming obscured by the tree. | S 4a | |
23 |
To Cut a Long Story Short 12m. Boldly climb the short corner right of the yew tree. | Fluttery | VS 4c |
24 |
Pride 12m. Good easy climbing following the crack-line right of the tree. | VD | |
25 |
Prejudice 12m. The deep crack right of Pride. | D | |
26 |
Flawse 12m. A poor route climbing the crack-line in the vague arete. | Loose | VD |
27 |
Sloth 12m. A good route and line that tackles the hand sized crack just left of a small cave. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VD |