Moyer's Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Level
Sheltered

The finest buttress at this end of the crag is also home to one of the Peak’s most famous challenges - Moyer’s Buttress. This brilliant route takes an unlikely line up the tall arete and gives climbing that is strenuous and delicate by turns. If you are up to it take a look at Stormbringer and Perfect Day both of which take equally impressive lines to their easier companion. The easier line of Biven's Crack doesn't see the attention it deserves. The side wall is well-sheltered but the open front face can be green after rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cave Arete
18m. Fight up the crack between the giant boulder and the main face to a good ledge - or bridge it if you are long-legged....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
HVS 5a
2
Stormbringer
20m. One of a bunch of classic E3 5c routes at Gardom’s. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E3 5c
3
Moyer's Buttress Top 50
22m. A major classic, originally led with just a single chockstone runner and definitely worth four stars. Climb the cracked...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Biven's Crack
16m. The long slanting crack is stormed on solid jams to its end and a swinging escape out right (once it was aided on fat...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Perfect Day
22m. A fine route with a crux which manages to feel more committing than it should. Climb Biven's Crack then attack the wall...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
The Enigma Variation
8m. A small but pumpy extension to Biven's Crack. From a belay on ledges to the right move back left onto the wall and climb...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Rounded
E3 5c
7
Keith's Corner-crack
18m. The short groove which bounds the face to the right is followed awkwardly to a ledge, finish up easy rock on the left.
 HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOMS

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Search for comments