Monkshead Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Evening sun
13 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Windy

A squat but power-packed little buttress that has been re-equipped and gives mostly sport routes. The crag does not look much from the approach path but is well worth a look, as it is in the shade until late and dry in the summer. This area is immediately on the right at the top of the approach valley.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The After Eights
Powerful moves through the left-hand side of the bulge lead to a thin finish.
5 user comments
 
Strong
7b+
2
People Give Me the Eyes
The best route on this sector is a powerful and technical concoction that saves its hardest move for last. Move right at the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c
3
Yankee Doodle Dandy
Climb direct to the tree using undercuts and big biceps.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
4
I Feel Like a Wog
A short and powerful pitch that can feel a lot harder if you get the sequence wrong at the start.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
5
Yoyoyoyo
12m. Something a little easier, boulder past a bolt to gain a flake and thread, follow this past a peg, easier than it looks.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E3 6a
6
Golly Gee
A good pitch with a difficult start. Climb the thin wall to reach good holds and a peg at 2/3 height before an easier finish....
3 user comments
 
Technical
6b+
7
Golly Gosh
Slightly harder than Golly Gee. Climb easily to a good hold then move up to reach the base of a shallow groove. Pull up past a...
3 user comments
 
Technical
6b+
8
Indian Summer
A difficult sequence up and leftwards around the arete, to finish at the Golly Gee lower-off.
2 user comments
 
Technical
6c
9
Golly Wog
Climb up using a series of small side-pulls, to reach a good hold around the bulge. A stiff pull past a peg gains easy ground...
2 user comments
 
Technical
6c
10
Swiss Drum Roll
The bulging featureless wall has no real protection. It has been bolted at 6c+ but bolts have gone missing.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E5
11
Hunky Monk
The first line on the left takes the low bulge and wall above to a lower-off.
 
Strong
6c
12
Too Monk to Funk
Hard pulling through the overlaps.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
13
Yo yo yo yo
Something a little easier. Boulder past a bolt to gain a flake and thread. Move past a peg to the top.
 
Technical
E3
  • Latest Comments

    For PINFOLD

    Through the Grapevine
    "Now has new lower off. R.McConnell" 16/Jun

    Killer Gorilla
    "Just for info, I did this free the same day as I did Planet Clare. I gave it 7b+..." 04/Feb

    Atmospheres
    "Generally ok for grade. Pegs/tat in a bad way! Would trust them with a barge pol..." 06/Sep

    Killer Gorilla
    "Hey I wonder what this would go free at..." 04/Sep

    I Feel Like a Wog
    "Had a right struggle on this at the weekend the 7b+ to the left felt easier, I'd..." 25/May

    Obelisks Fly High
    "Well worth doing" 16/May

    Toccata
    "I would agree with that" 28/Sep top50

    Marnie
    "totaly agree with above comment, there arnt loads of holds!! small gear only." 18/Sep

    Atlantic Traveller
    "Another great route, nice climbing and good gear" 30/Aug top50

    Mitsuki Groove
    "Felt more like VS 5a, bomber small wires and only one tricky move" 16/Aug

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