Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Left Wall  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The left-hand side of the Main Wall is its steepest section and home to the best routes. The majority of the lines are worthwhile and once in condition offer some of the best stamina sport pitches in the region. However, the gorge is a damp spot requiring time for the seepage streaks to dry out. The base is often muddy. If on a first visit it is worth spending sometime checking out which route is which. The right-hand side of the Main Wall has more good long sport pitches that require care with the rock in places. The gorge is very enclosed and sees little sun. The wall seeps badly but once dry stays dry and climbing during rainfall is possible. The bottom of the gorge is often muddy and a rope bag is a good idea.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cave Wall
A strange climb. Start up Where We Going (page 57 ) but then move right past a bolt to gain the steep wall above the cave....
2 user comments
 
Technical
E4
2
Echoes
A good and popular route when dry. An awkward and often greasy start just left of a tiny ground-level cave leads to a good...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
3
Grand Canyon Top 50
The best route in the gorge. Start at a diagonal borehole strike at head height. The climbing varies from dynamic lunges...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
4
Broccoli and Ice-Cream
A good route that is only marginally easier than Grand Canyon. Start just right of Devil's Haircut. A tricky initial 'slabby'...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
5
An Ivory Smile
This is a very good route but it is rarely climbed and may need a bit of a clean first. The first bolt is old so clip-stick the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c
6
The Ten Year Fog
A good route with a wild finish. Start just right of An Ivory Smile beneath a groove in the bulge above. Another grubby start...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
7
Bananas and Coffee
A good route, unfortunately spoilt by some crumbly calcite holds midway up. An often dirty start past a couple of resin 'P'...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
8
Uhu
Dirty. Start up Bananas and Coffee and then move rightwards following the flake-line to a lower-off under the bridge.
2 user comments
 6b
9
Comfortably Numb
A worthwhile micro-route. Boulder out the start to reach a good hold. Pull up and move around onto the steep face to reach the...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
10
Underworld
Start at a tiny ground-level cave. Climb up to reach good holds and take a deep breath before tackling a taxing sequence of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
11
Hades
The extension of Underworld is a classy piece of climbing. Make the most of a poor rest at the Underworld lower-off before...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
12
Canyonlands
The extension to Grand Canyon is a tremendous power endurance testpiece that features some very taxing moves on the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
Devil's Haircut
A brilliant route with some great moves. Start right of Grand Canyon beneath a shallow rounded depression. Climb easily into...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
14
Born Slippy
A good link-up that covers all the hard climbing on Underworld and Grand Canyon. Climb Underworld to reach the holds above the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
15
The Mark of Zorro
A link-up that covers some impressive ground mainly on very good holds. Climb past the first couple of bolts on Underworld then...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
16
Cerberus
A superb counter diagonal to Born Slippy. Climb the first half of Grand Canyon and then break leftwards using the Born Slippy...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
17
Beetroot and Creatine
Climb Devil's Haircut to just below its lower-off and then move left to join and finish up Canyonlands. At the upper end of the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
18
The Ten Year Banana
A good logical link-up that covers the best climbing of the parent routes. From the good holds above the groove on The Ten Year...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
19
Fair Trade
A tough and fingery route that tackles the headwall right of Bananas and Coffee. Climb Bananas and Coffee to its fifth bolt....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
20
Trade Fair
Climb Fair Trade to its penultimate bolt and move right via a hard press move to a lower-off next to the bridge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
21
What's in a Word
An alternative right-hand finish to Bananas and Coffee .
 
1 Stars
7a+
22
La Porte de l'Enfer
An extended boulder problem that climbs plumb centre up the steep entrance wall to the gorge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For DEVIL'S GORGE

    Broccoli and Ice-Cream
    "Climbed this on sat, think it was the only route climbable due to the seepage, i..." 09/Apr

    The Ten Year Fog
    "Re-bolted, re-cleaned and extended to the top of the crag. This is another three..." 20/Sep

    Grand Canyon
    "Is access to this crag ok? remember reading that thyere were some issues with it..." 29/Aug top50

    Bananas and Coffee
    "Many years later lets put the record straight. If it's the route I'm thinking..." 04/Feb

    Broccoli and Ice-Cream
    "What is the short project between Grand Canyon and Broccoli and Ice-cream? I'm a..." 15/Aug

    Broccoli and Ice-Cream
    "I've cleaned up this route. It's in good nick at the moment and certainly worth..." 21/Jul

    Grand Canyon
    "I remember doing this in the early 90's and some holds crumbling on the last sec..." 10/Jul top50

    Search for comments