Adjacent Areas
< The Nomad Wall | Black Wall >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level
5 minsThis massive wall has a series of huge bolted routes that have an adventurous feel about them. The climbing is not strenuous but often involves thin moves or long reaches between breaks and the huge pitches mean that the routes tend to feel very exposed in their upper reaches. The rock is mostly solid but there are loose sections lower down on the wall, and on the ledge band across the middle. Guidebook page 153.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Strawberry Tubin 35m. A very long route. At the top, pull left to finish. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
2 |
Jack the Smuggler 17m. Reachy and hard moves between good breaks gain the lower-off. Take care going for the second bolt. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | 7a |
3 |
Smack the Juggler 18m. The arete and wall up the right-hand side of the promenient buttress have some interesting moves. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
4 |
A Night on the Town 35m. A long line up the broken lower wall and better upper wall just to the right of the vegetated corner. 5 user comments | Technical | 6c+ |
5 |
Gaza Strippers 35m. Start up either A Night Torchlight Parade or Curfew, to gain the ledge system (possible belay). Follow the crack-system... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
6 |
A Night Torchlight Parade 35m. A worthwhile line which has a good upper wall but some of the rock needs handling with care in the lower third. It is... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
7 |
Curfew Top 50 33m. A long, long pitch with some good moves that gives a memorable outing. The upper section is an amazing wall at the grade.... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
8 |
Grid Iron 35m. Follow Curfew to its small inset corner at mid-height. Make some awkward moves rightwards to gain a crack line that is... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | E4 6a |
9 |
Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub 35m. Good moves high up but some slightly poor rock at the start. Gain the large dirty ledge with care then make some hard... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a+ |
10 |
Incy Wincy Spider 35m. A similar upper wall to Pew Pew.... Follow Pew Pew... to the ledge before heading off on the right-hand line again with... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a+ |
11 |
Hickory Dickory Dock 35m. Start up some slightly loose ground before tackling the solid upper wall. There is a hard reach for a break just above the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a |
12 |
Humpty Dumpty 35m. A good solid pitch just left of the right arete of the wall. Make a steep pull off a raised ledge and climb the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c+ |
