Adjacent Areas
< The Grid Iron Wall | The Red Wall >
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level
5 minsRestricted Access
no climbing 1 March to 30 June - nesting birds
The Black Wall at Llanymynech is a superb wall of good rock which compares favourably to any quarried wall in the country. It offers a set of brilliant trad routes which rely on some pegs and bolts but mostly on gear in the horizontal breaks and cracks giving good-but-spaced protection. The three central lines are of a reasonable grade, the flanking lines are much more difficult and all incorporate some exquistite vertical wall climbing. Guidebook page 154.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Picking Blackheads 35m. A very serious route on the left of the face. Start from a hollow and take a direct line past the prominent sandy alcove... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
2 |
While the Cat's Away 35m. Excellent hard wall climbing but with only limited protection and some testing run-outs. Climb up to a peg in a very faint... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Black Wall Top 50 40m. A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the Black Wall. The climbing is sustained, route-finding intricate and... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
4 |
Black Bastard Top 50 30m. The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
5 |
Black Wall Direct 30m. A fine combination improves on the original route but ups the grade slightly. Start up Black Bastard and continue up the... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
6 |
Black is Beautiful 30m. A fine climb of contrasts on immaculate rock. The moves near the bolt are desperate, the other sections are easier but... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E4 6b |
7 |
Churnet Runners 30m. Climb steep and slightly dirty rock, past a poor peg, to better rock above. Two marginal pegs protect intricate moves on... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
8 |
Zeppelin 30m. The striking arete offers a stunning line but the start and finish of the route has some very poor rock. There are number... | Pumpy Fluttery Loose | E2 5b |
