Black Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Grid Iron Wall  |  Red Wall >

Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

Black Wall is a superb vertical face of good rock that compares favourably with any quarried wall in the country. It has a brilliant set of trad routes that have good but spaced protection, mostly in the form of gear in the horizontal breaks and cracks although there are some pegs. The three central lines are of a reasonable grade, the flanking lines are much more difficult and all incorporate some exquisite vertical wall climbing.
Unfortunately the vital fixed gear on the harder lines is now showing its age and an abseil inspection is advised before you attempt any of these routes. The middle three lines tend to see many more ascents and are cleaner and rely on less crucial single gear placements.
Most of the rock on Black Wall is solid, dark and sandy limestone with a profusion of horizontal breaks, good pockets and intermittent vertical thin cracks. A band of poorer rock is present at about 3/4 height but here the holds and climbing are less difficult. The wall seeps after heavy prolonged rain and mud can build up in the horizontal breaks leaving some slippery holds. The wall dries very quickly after rain, is sheltered and gets the sun for a good part of the day.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Picking Blackheads
A serious route on the left of the face. Start from a hollow and take a direct line past the prominent sandy alcove that is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
2
While the Cat's Away
Excellent wall climbing with limited protection and some testing run-outs. Climb up to a peg in a very faint left-trending...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4
3
Black Wall
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
4
Black Bastard Top 50
The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2
5
Black Wall Direct
A fine combination improves on the original route but ups the grade slightly. Start up Black Bastard and continue up the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2
6
Black is Beautiful
A fine climb of contrasts on immaculate rock. It is advisable to finish up the last 8m of Black Bastard since the upper wall is...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5
7
Churnet Runners
Climb steep and slightly dirty rock, past a poor peg, to better rock above. Two marginal pegs protect intricate moves on...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
8
Zeppelin
The striking arete offers a stunning line but the start and finish of the route has some very poor rock. There are number of...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E2
  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH QUARRY

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

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