Black Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Grid Iron Wall  |  The Red Wall >

Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level
5 mins
Sheltered
Restricted Access

no climbing 1 March to 30 June - nesting birds


The Black Wall at Llanymynech is a superb wall of good rock which compares favourably to any quarried wall in the country. It offers a set of brilliant trad routes which rely on some pegs and bolts but mostly on gear in the horizontal breaks and cracks giving good-but-spaced protection. The three central lines are of a reasonable grade, the flanking lines are much more difficult and all incorporate some exquistite vertical wall climbing. Guidebook page 154.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Picking Blackheads
35m. A very serious route on the left of the face. Start from a hollow and take a direct line past the prominent sandy alcove...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
2
While the Cat's Away
35m. Excellent hard wall climbing but with only limited protection and some testing run-outs. Climb up to a peg in a very faint...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
Black Wall Top 50
40m. A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the Black Wall. The climbing is sustained, route-finding intricate and...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Black Bastard Top 50
30m. The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
5
Black Wall Direct
30m. A fine combination improves on the original route but ups the grade slightly. Start up Black Bastard and continue up the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
6
Black is Beautiful
30m. A fine climb of contrasts on immaculate rock. The moves near the bolt are desperate, the other sections are easier but...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6b
7
Churnet Runners
30m. Climb steep and slightly dirty rock, past a poor peg, to better rock above. Two marginal pegs protect intricate moves on...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
Zeppelin
30m. The striking arete offers a stunning line but the start and finish of the route has some very poor rock. There are number...
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct top50

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

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