Red Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Black Wall  |  None >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Level
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This is a huge face with some amazing routes that are far more interesting than the rather featureless and uniform appearance of the rock might suggest. The wall itself is gently overhanging although the climbing is not particularly strenuous.
aAccess - No climbing (all routes) from 1st March to 30th June between markers because of nesting birds.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crab Stick
A good introduction to the climbing on Red Wall. Follow the face just to the right of the arete with a tough move to pass the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
2
Lobster on the Loose
A worthwhile pitch with contrasting halves. Make a thigh-busting rockover to start, then steep and juggy moves gain the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
3
Rapture of the Deep
Start below a large overhang with a staple bolt beneath it. Good moves through the overhang gain an awkward wall above. A very...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
4
Subterranean Sidewalk
Super-sustained climbing. Passing the second bolt is hard, especially for the short, but the rest is no push over. There is a...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
5
Dead Man's Fingers
A fabulous pitch packed with technically intricate climbing. A pressing sequence up the steep wall and small overlap using some...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
6
The Ancient Mariner Top 50
A monster pitch. Increasingly difficult climbing gains a steep wall with a leaning borehole. Perplexing and strenuous moves up...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
The Deep
A good outing that features a fine slab section and easier but steeper moves above on well-hidden holds. Low in the grade.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
8
I Saw Three Ships
Plenty of fine moves link together nicely and provide a worthwhile pitch. The hard moves are generally on good holds, but the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
9
Ship Dip
Excellent climbing with one technical section high up. The start may be a touch dirty.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
10
Mussel Bound Top 50
Good climbing featuring a steep upper third on superb rock. Start up a shallow groove from where steady climbing leads to the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
11
Long John Codling
The long groove system on the right-hand side of the wall is yet another excellent pitch.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a
12
Shipperdy Doo-Dah
A direct line that has a hard and reachy finish plus some snappy rock in places. Start at a shallow groove in the left-hand...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Loose
7a+
13
Dead Man's Chest
A diagonal leftward-rising line starting up Long John Codling and finishing at the lower-off of Crab Stick. 80m rope required.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
14
Clematis
The huge corner is a fine line that gives a very sustained route. Can be a little dusty at times.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
15
Poison Ivy
The centre of the tall narrow wall gives a fine pitch on good rock that has technical moves interspersed with good shakeouts....
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
16
Day of the Triffids
The arete is climbed mainly on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH QUARRY

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

    Nomad
    "Hi Nick. I found your comments interesting. Life is full of choices and I gues..." 20/Jul

    Nomad
    "Climbed this yesterday, after T.W.H and T.S.S. Its about 3 or 4 years since i di..." 19/Jul

    Slobberlob
    "Found the crux to be, around the third bolt. moving off a poor crimp and rock up..." 16/Jul

    Nomad
    "Probably the second best route on the wall after This Won't Hurt. Steady climbin..." 07/Mar

    This Won't Hurt
    "Three star route.Reachy and sustained 7a." 02/Mar

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