The Red Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 mins
Sheltered
Restricted Access

no climbing 1 March to 30 June - nesting birds


The Red Wall is a huge face with some amazing pitches which prove far more interesting than the rather featureless and uniform appearance of the rock might suggest. The wall did have a reputation for sand-bag grades but a lot of rebolting has been done to remove some of the scary run-outs, additionally, some of the routes have been upgraded. Guidebook page 156.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crab Stick
26m. A good introduction to the climbing on Red Wall. It follows the face just to the right of the arete (Zeppelin takes the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
2
Lobster on the Loose
26m. A worthwhile pitch with contrasting halves. Make a thigh-busting rock-over to start then steep and juggy moves gain the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
3
Rapture of the Deep Top 50
27m. Start below a large overhang with a staple bolt beneath it. Good moves through the overhang gain an awkward wall above. A...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
4
Subterranean Sidewalk Top 50
28m. Super sustained climbing. Passing the second bolt is hard, especially for the short, however the rest is no push over....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
5
Dead Man's Fingers Top 50
28m. A fabulous pitch packed with technically intricate and fingery climbing. Move up to a high bolt and continue to a pressing...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
6
The Ancient Mariner Top 50
35m. An awesome pitch involving some spicy climbing in a 3 star position. The bolts (and one peg) are slightly spaced but all...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
The Deep
27m. An ameanable and diverse route. Start up the large grey ledges and then move up rightwards before gaining a fine slab....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
8
I Saw Three Ships
30m. Plenty of fine moves link nicely and provide a worthwhile outing. The hard moves are generally on good holds and the start...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
9
Ship Dip
30m. After the first 8m, this gives excellent climbing with one technical section high up. Original start is often dirty. A...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
10
Mussel Bound Top 50
30m. Good climbing featuring a steep upper third on superb rock. After a dirty start up a shallow groove, relatively easy...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a+
11
Long John Codling
30m. The long groove system on the right-hand side of the wall. At present the gear is old.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a
  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct top50

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

    Nomad
    "Hi Nick. I found your comments interesting. Life is full of choices and I gues..." 20/Jul

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