Adjacent Areas
< None | The Nomad Wall >
Sport
Sun and Shade
Level
5 minsThis is a useful spot for those in need of a very intense finger workout. It can be reached by following the path underneath the main quarry, then cross a stile (into Wales!) and a path leads right and up into a huge quarrred basin. Cul-de-sac Quarry is at the back of this. Guidebook page 151.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Alors! 15m. The well-worn line on the easy-angled wall. | Pumpy | D |
2 |
Ca Va! 15m. The left-hand crack. | Pumpy | VD |
3 |
Voila! 15m. Left-trending line to a block. Finish direct. | Pumpy Fluttery | VD |
4 |
Merde! 15m. Start up Voila! and move up to, and past, a square-cut overhang, finish direct up the horizontally-banded wall. | Fluttery | HS 4a |
5 |
Dirty Climb 15m. The wall left of the cave. | 5+ | |
6 |
Dream of White Horses, Not 15m. Branch out left from Sheila's Route. | 6a | |
7 |
Sheila's Route 12m. The bolt line just right of the cave. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 5+ |
8 |
Andy Pandy 10m. The unprotected arete on the right of the descent path. | Fluttery | E4 5c |
9 |
Slobberlob 10m. The right-hand side of arete. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a |
10 |
Back-Bee Tubin 10m. Intense and fingery climbing. High in the grade. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a |
11 |
Little Weed 10m. A fine route up the central thin crack-line that is high in the grade. A tough upper half. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
12 |
Spotty Dog 10m. Good moves between the breaks just right of the thin crack of Little Weed. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Crimpy | 7b |
13 |
Bill and Ben 10m. The wall past a high peg is very dirty at present. It has also been given 7c. | Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
14 |
Saul's Crack 10m. A steep, dirty and wide crack on the right-hand side of the wall. | VS 4c | |
