Cul-de-Sac Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
Level
5 mins
Sheltered

This is a useful spot for those in need of a very intense finger workout. It can be reached by following the path underneath the main quarry, then cross a stile (into Wales!) and a path leads right and up into a huge quarrred basin. Cul-de-sac Quarry is at the back of this. Guidebook page 151.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alors!
15m. The well-worn line on the easy-angled wall.
 
Pumpy
D
2
Ca Va!
15m. The left-hand crack.
 
Pumpy
VD
3
Voila!
15m. Left-trending line to a block. Finish direct.
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
VD
4
Merde!
15m. Start up Voila! and move up to, and past, a square-cut overhang, finish direct up the horizontally-banded wall.
 
Fluttery
HS 4a
5
Dirty Climb
15m. The wall left of the cave.
 5+
6
Dream of White Horses, Not
15m. Branch out left from Sheila's Route.
 6a
7
Sheila's Route
12m. The bolt line just right of the cave.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5+
8
Andy Pandy
10m. The unprotected arete on the right of the descent path.
 
Fluttery
E4 5c
9
Slobberlob
10m. The right-hand side of arete.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a
10
Back-Bee Tubin
10m. Intense and fingery climbing. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
11
Little Weed
10m. A fine route up the central thin crack-line that is high in the grade. A tough upper half.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
12
Spotty Dog
10m. Good moves between the breaks just right of the thin crack of Little Weed.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
7b
13
Bill and Ben
10m. The wall past a high peg is very dirty at present. It has also been given 7c.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
14
Saul's Crack
10m. A steep, dirty and wide crack on the right-hand side of the wall.
 VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct top50

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

    Nomad
    "Hi Nick. I found your comments interesting. Life is full of choices and I gues..." 20/Jul

    Nomad
    "Climbed this yesterday, after T.W.H and T.S.S. Its about 3 or 4 years since i di..." 19/Jul

    Slobberlob
    "Found the crux to be, around the third bolt. moving off a poor crimp and rock up..." 16/Jul

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