The Great Escape Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Limekiln Cave Area  |  Bay of Rainbows Area >

Trad
Morning sun
15 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

This snaking, block-topped wall has a number of unusual lines, including a fully-bolted traverse. However the boulder beach has dropped since the routes were established and the starts are now significantly different - there have been no known ascents in recent times. There are a number of difficult DWSs not described in this book - for details see Deep Water www.rockfax.com.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sea of Tears
A photogenic arete with a blind crux.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
2
The Underhill Mob
A strenuous layback. Bolts reported missing.
1 user comment
 6a+
3
Depth Gauge
13m. The flowstone face between two flake-grooves above shallow water. Step left to start then climb direct up the thin wall...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
Esperanto
13m. Step left and make a hard move to a jug in a groove. Follow the groove to the top, exiting rightwards.
 
Fluttery
E1 6a
5
Bastinado
13m. Move right then rock up and climb the thin wall to a bulge (3 bolt belay to the right). Pull through and climb to the top.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
6
The Machine
13m. Probably the best of the new routes but with a crux at the top! Climb a scoop then move right between 2 bolts. Continue...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
7
Deep Water Drug Bust
13m. Move up and right across the wall towards the arete. Use this to gain the crack above which leads to the top.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Nutters' Way
11m. A solo, effectively climbing the second pitch of Esmeralda’s Monkey starting from the lower ledge. The hard bit is passing...
 
1 Stars
DWS
E5 6b
9
The 6.03
9m. A solo start to the last section of The Great Escape.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
10
Scrubs
9m. A steep face with a low crux to gain a pocketed break.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
11
Borstal Brake-in
9m. Good climbing above dodgy water. From the right-hand end of a narrow ledge, climb the wall above passing a bolt and small...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
DWS
Fluttery
E3 6a
12
The Great Escape
An atmospheric traverse. Unfortunately the boulder beach has dropped and the start is not possible at the present time.1)...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
13
Beach Madness
Follow the The Great Escape to the 6th bolt, then climb direct through the roof to a belay on a block. Note that the crux is on...
4 user comments
 
Pumpy
6c
14
Esmeralda's Monkey
50m. An extension to The Great Escape. From the belay at the end of pitch 1 of The Great Escape , drop down and follow the line...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
7b
  • Latest Comments

    For BEESTON CLIFF

    Sea Pink
    "I found reaching the decent holds prior to making the crux moves pretty reachy. ..." 15/Oct

    Fight the Good Fight
    "Tough but enjoyable little climb." 19/Jun

    Bungle, Zippy and George
    "As a lead, this route is quite dangerous, with a nasty fall awaiting anyone blow..." 30/Jun

    Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust
    "Managed to do this on the only day in 5 years that the tide was low enough for s..." 25/Mar

    Krakatoa
    "The climb only has two bolts. Crux is just before second bolt, not really that h..." 15/Mar

    Strategem
    "Just one/two hardish moves. Good Little wall climb, as are the other routs on th..." 17/Oct

    Popacatapetl
    "Seemed to have one very tough move so 6a, although I guess it is only a short ro..." 23/Apr

    Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust
    "Think this one requires an uber low tide. It was submerged in about a metre of w..." 23/Aug

    Aquaserene
    "Checked these out today at a lower-than-average low tide, but all were awash at ..." 13/Feb

    Strategem
    "Appears to be a hold missing which has left the middle section of the headwall u..." 23/Aug

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