The Great Escape Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Limekiln Cave Area  |  Bay of Rainbows Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

This snaking, block-topped wall has a number of unusual lines, including a fully-bolted traverse. However the boulder beach has dropped since the routes were established and the starts are now significantly different - there have been no known ascents in recent times. There are a number of difficult DWSs not described in this book - for details see Deep Water www.rockfax.com.
Tides - The first two lines require an abseil approach and very low spring tide. The remaining routes are non-tidal.
Approach - Walk along the coast path for 15 minutes, above Godnor, until a dome-shaped spoil heap is reached above a promontory. The Great Escape Wall is to the left of the earth mound (looking out). All the routes require an abseil approach from locations on the topo.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sea of Tears
A photogenic arete with a blind crux.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
2
The Underhill Mob
A strenuous layback. Bolts reported missing.
1 user comment
 6a+
3
Depth Gauge
13m. The flowstone face between two flake-grooves above shallow water. Step left to start then climb direct up the thin wall...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
Esperanto
13m. Step left and make a hard move to a jug in a groove. Follow the groove to the top, exiting rightwards.
 
Fluttery
E1 6a
5
Bastinado
13m. Move right then rock up and climb the thin wall to a bulge (3 bolt belay to the right). Pull through and climb to the top.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
6
The Machine
13m. Probably the best of the new routes but with a crux at the top! Climb a scoop then move right between 2 bolts. Continue...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
7
Deep Water Drug Bust
13m. Move up and right across the wall towards the arete. Use this to gain the crack above which leads to the top.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Nutters' Way
11m. A solo, effectively climbing the second pitch of Esmeralda’s Monkey starting from the lower ledge. The hard bit is passing...
 
1 Stars
DWS
E5 6b
9
The 6.03
9m. A solo start to the last section of The Great Escape.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
10
Scrubs
9m. A steep face with a low crux to gain a pocketed break.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
11
Borstal Brake-in
9m. Good climbing above dodgy water. From the right-hand end of a narrow ledge, climb the wall above passing a bolt and small...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
DWS
Fluttery
E3 6a
12
The Great Escape
An atmospheric traverse. Unfortunately the boulder beach has dropped and the start is not possible at the present time.1)...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
13
Beach Madness
Follow the The Great Escape to the 6th bolt, then climb direct through the roof to a belay on a block. Note that the crux is on...
4 user comments
 
Pumpy
6c
14
Esmeralda's Monkey
An extension to The Great Escape. From the belay at the end of pitch 1 of The Great Escape , drop down and follow the line...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
7b