Mitre and Ferocity Walls

Adjacent Areas
< Upper Ferocity  |  Upper Cliff >

Sport
Early morning sun
8 mins
Downhill

The showpiece crag of southern Britain for state-of-the-art hard sport-climbs. The streaked wall overhangs for its full length, and the climbs are as ferocious as they appear.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Big Jim
10m. This route has got a touch overgrown but it is worthwhile if the ivy is cleaned off.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
2
Tiny Tim
10m. A good little crack pitch which can be spoilt if ivy chokes the cracks.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Timeless Skies
10m. Good pocketed wall climbing. Move up to a rounded pocket and then rightwards to a peg. Now climb the wall above passing a...
 
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
4
Crook Bruce
16m. Climb up left of the stuck on conglomerate pancake to a peg. Continue to a Z-shaped crack and then head right strenuously...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Avant-garde
18m. Move directly up the wall above the Z-crack of Crook Bruce past a peg and thread.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
Heathen Man
Very good, if a little sharp on the finger tips. Start on the fallen slab, near the top of the steep path beneath the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
7
Sun of Righteousness
17m. A tough beginning followed by some easier but still draining arm work.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
8
Uzi in My Pocket
17m. An impressive route with a short and intense crux. Finish on Heathen Man. The bolts are awkwardly placed on the crux.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
9
Empire of the Sun Top 50
One of the West Country's great sport-routes. Low in the grade, but very pumpy and a touch polished. Start beneath a pocketed...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
10
Empire Direct
20m. The bold start can be avoided by a more technical right-hand variation.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
11
Just Revenge Top 50
20m. A superb, steep challenge which builds to a reachy climax.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
12
Avenged Top 50
Brilliant moves up the highest section of the wall just right of Empire of the Sun. Start 3m left of the arete.Stretch up...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7c+
13
Might and Main Top 50
The huge bow-shaped arete has lots of difficult moves punctuated with good rests. Start at the base of the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
14
Rise 'n' Shine
23m. A rising traverse line starting up Son of Righteousness and finishing as for Might and Main.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
15
The Waffle Supremacy
16m. A tough eliminate which is too close to other routes but it does have a few good moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7b+
16
Mitre Direct
18m. Start up Might and Main then pull through the bulge to the right. Continue directly to some hard moves past a single bolt....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
17
The Mitre
A snaking line featuring exposed positions and very steep climbing. Start 2m right of the base of the arete.Powerful moves...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3
18
The Mightier
16m. Powerful. Steep climbing up the bulging right-hand side of the wall. No slinking off rightwards on the ledge by the crux.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
The Mightiest
14m. Climb up to, and boulder past, the single bolt. Scramble off right or find another bolt to lower-off from. Poor.
 
Strong
7a+
20
How the Mighty Fall
Unusual climbing on large sloping holds gains a heart-stopping finish. Start 2m right of the arete.Move up and right to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Time Bandits
16m. The left-hand bolt line.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
22
End of an Era
16m. The crack is bolted. At the top stretch left to lower-off.
 
Pumpy
6a
23
Devonshire Cream Top 50
The eye-catching left arete of the wall is a stunning, but bold undertaking. Start beneath the arete on its right-hand...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5
24
La Crème
The white, overlap-strewn groove provides a classy piece of technical climbing. Requires crisp conditions. Start just down and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
25
Sole Fusion
13m. A variation to Devonshire Cream. Clip the first bolt on Devonshire Cream and then make a wild traverse rightwards to a...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
26
Cream Topping
13m. Another variation but this time move right from above the second bolt on Devonshire Cream.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6a
27
Tuppence
A superb testpiece taking on the centre of the wall. Start right of a thin right-slanting crack.Dynamic moves gain a good...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
28
Tuppence Ha'penny
17m. A leftwards extension from above the hard climbing of Tuppence pushes the overall difficulty up.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
29
A Fisherman's Tale
An improbable line up the steepest and blankest section of the Ferocity Wall. Start at a sloping shelf that cuts in from the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
30
Poppy
16m. Utterly desperate! Allow a slack rope when passing the third bolt since a tight rope reduces the grade dramatically.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
31
Postman Pat
16m. A link-up route which enables the upper part of Fisherman’s Tale to be sampled at a more amenable grade. Photo page 302.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
32
The Cider Soak Top 50
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.Stand on the shelf and move up to a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
33
Brian
The hardest sport climb in the south of the UK takes in the crux of Tuppence and a whole lot more hard climbing. Start as for...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
34
The Lynch Top 50
Brilliant and brutal. The overhanging groove and crack on the right-hand side of the wall is a classic of its genre. Start...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
35
Pet Cemetery
15m. Although this link-up gives a miniscule amount of new climbing it is very worthwhile. From the 5th bolt on The Lynch make...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
36
Rawhide
12m. An uninspiring line and the bolts are old.
1 user comment
 
Strong
7a
  • Latest Comments

    For ANSTEY'S COVE

    More Steam, Bigger Women!!!
    "Changed from 7b ** to 7b ***, 100% of 2 votes for ***" 19/Jun

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Blazing Apostles
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    American Express
    "THIN but all the holds are there...good route just a pity it doesn't go on longe..." 19/Jul

    Empire of the Sun
    "There is a new first bolt" 26/Jun top50

    The Lynch
    "Brutal, utterly utterly brutal..." 06/Sep top50

    The Waffle Supremacy
    "Unfairly maligned in my opinion, this is an excellent route, slightly spoiled by..." 13/Jun

    Big Jim
    "Nice little route with a powerful start and delicate upper section." 10/Sep

    Rawhide
    "Now re-geared and cleaned (two huge blocks came off it), it's not a bad route, i..." 12/Jul

    Empire of the Sun
    "An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly." 04/Jun top50

    Just Revenge
    "Well...maybe power isn't my thing, but this felt considerably harder than Return..." 27/May top50

    Heathen Man
    "I found it as very easy 7b ('cause I like pockets?:)" 28/Mar

    The Lynch
    "Gritstone HVS!!! :-)" 08/Dec top50

    Might and Main
    "This is quite hard a bit run out and is not the best warm up in the world. The c..." 13/Oct top50

    Cocytus, More Steam Connection
    "Brilliant route. combines the best bits of the two parent routes!" 27/Aug

    Empire of the Sun
    "Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b...." 30/Jun top50

    The Mitre
    "Powerful start! Once passed though, the rest is nice and steady with good wire p..." 29/Jun

    Cocytus
    "Those who have no wish to topout for the full historic tick might like to know t..." 08/Jun top50

    How the Mighty Fall
    "Good route, if you like slopers, slopers and a few more slopers. It is actually..." 07/Jun

    Empire of the Sun
    "pure class" 30/Aug top50

    Brian
    "When it's a traverse?" 19/Aug

    Brian
    "How the hell do you reverse a 8a+ crux?!" 19/Aug

    Heathen Man
    "not really that painful, but about three fierce moves; a bit stiff for 7b." 16/Aug

    Empire of the Sun
    "I'd like to add, I don't think a photo-topo works very well for this wall, where..." 11/Jul top50

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