Empire Wall and Mitre Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
8 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The wall overlooking the approach path has a few traditional routes on its left-hand side. The quality bolted routes start further right. The wall seeps after prolonged rainfall. Guidebook page 308.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Big Jim
10m. This route has got a touch overgrown but it is worthwhile if the ivy is cleaned off.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
2
Tiny Tim
10m. A good little crack pitch which can be spoilt if ivy chokes the cracks.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Timeless Skies
10m. Good pocketed wall climbing. Move up to a rounded pocket and then rightwards to a peg. Now climb the wall above passing a...
 
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
4
Crook Bruce
16m. Climb up left of the stuck on conglomerate pancake to a peg. Continue to a Z-shaped crack and then head right strenuously...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Avant-garde
18m. Move directly up the wall above the Z-crack of Crook Bruce past a peg and thread.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
Heathen Man
16m. Very painful crimping in the first few metres but above things ease off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
7
Sun of Righteousness
17m. A tough beginning followed by some easier but still draining arm work.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
8
Uzi in My Pocket
17m. An impressive route with a short and intense crux. Finish on Heathen Man. The bolts are awkwardly placed on the crux.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
9
Empire of the Sun Top 50
20m. A magnificent stamina test. After a slightly bold start, it becomes a race against time to the top. No hard moves.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
10
Empire Direct
20m. The bold start can be avoided by a more technical right-hand variation.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
11
Just Revenge Top 50
20m. A superb, steep challenge which builds to a reachy climax.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
12
Avenged Top 50
20m. Move left after the 5th bolt on Just Revenge to join and finish up Empire. Pumpy.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
13
Might and Main Top 50
21m. The arete is taken mainly on its left-hand side. At the top, either swing left to the lower-off, or continue to the fence...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
14
Rise 'n' Shine
23m. A rising traverse line starting up Son of Righteousness and finishing as for Might and Main.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
15
The Waffle Supremacy
16m. A tough eliminate which is too close to other routes but it does have a few good moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7b+
16
Mitre Direct
18m. Start up Might and Main then pull through the bulge to the right. Continue directly to some hard moves past a single bolt....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
17
The Mitre
A snaking line featuring exposed positions and very steep climbing. Start 2m right of the base of the arete.25m. Powerful...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3 6b
18
The Mightier
16m. Powerful. Steep climbing up the bulging right-hand side of the wall. No slinking off rightwards on the ledge by the crux.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
The Mightiest
14m. Climb up to, and boulder past, the single bolt. Scramble off right or find another bolt to lower-off from. Poor.
 
Strong
7a+
20
How the Mighty Fall Top 50
Unusual climbing on large sloping holds gains a heart-stopping finish. Start 2m right of the arete.18m. Move up and right...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Time Bandits
16m. The left-hand bolt line.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
22
End of an Era
16m. The crack is bolted. At the top stretch left to lower-off.
 
Pumpy
6a
  • Latest Comments

    For ANSTEY'S COVE

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Blazing Apostles
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    American Express
    "THIN but all the holds are there...good route just a pity it doesn't go on longe..." 19/Jul

    Empire of the Sun
    "There is a new first bolt" 26/Jun top50

    The Lynch
    "Brutal, utterly utterly brutal..." 06/Sep top50

    The Waffle Supremacy
    "Unfairly maligned in my opinion, this is an excellent route, slightly spoiled by..." 13/Jun

    Big Jim
    "Nice little route with a powerful start and delicate upper section." 10/Sep

    Rawhide
    "Now re-geared and cleaned (two huge blocks came off it), it's not a bad route, i..." 12/Jul

    Empire of the Sun
    "An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly." 04/Jun top50

    Just Revenge
    "Well...maybe power isn't my thing, but this felt considerably harder than Return..." 27/May top50

    Heathen Man
    "I found it as very easy 7b ('cause I like pockets?:)" 28/Mar

    The Lynch
    "Gritstone HVS!!! :-)" 08/Dec top50

    Might and Main
    "This is quite hard a bit run out and is not the best warm up in the world. The c..." 13/Oct top50

    Cocytus, More Steam Connection
    "Brilliant route. combines the best bits of the two parent routes!" 27/Aug

    Empire of the Sun
    "Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b...." 30/Jun top50

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