Grooved Wall Area

Trad
Early morning sun
15 mins
Level
Sheltered

A couple of isolated buttresses with a classic E3 5c and a series of pleasant crack and groove climbs. The chunky oak in front of Grooved Wall offers shade in the summer but encourages humidity after rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Soloman
The left edge of the steep wall.
 
Bumstart
f6A+
2
A Fearful Orange
The short hanging crack starting matched on the big triangular hold. Leaning in higher is worth f6A+.
 
2 Stars
f6C+
3
Two-Headed Boy
The arete on its right-hand side, continuing out right along the shelf. Mantel to finish. On its left is Neutral Milk Hotel,...
 
1 Stars
f6C
4
It's a Gas
Ape across the break to reach a ledge. Finish up the groove.
 E1
5
Jumping Jack Flash
Access the hanging crack with difficulty and climb it with more!
 
1 Stars
HVS
6
Broken Buttress
The central rift. A finish on the right is best.
 
Graunchy
VD
7
Ladder Coins
Follow crimps up the wall.
 f6B
8
Gamorilla
Trend left to access the hanging groove, then up this and across the roof. Beware loose rock in the break below the roof.
 
Loose
HVS
9
Capillary Crack
The thin crack and bulge give the best pitch on this buttress.
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Whisky Wall
Climb the green groove to ledges then move out right to find better climbing and great positions on the arete.
 
1 Stars
S
11
Muswell Hillbillies
An eliminate up the green unprotected slab down and right.
 E4
12
Waterloo Sunset
The last of the classic Gardom's E3s is a bold arete climb which is often green. Start on the right and climb to a break where...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
13
Finale Groove
The oddly-named first crack in the face. The crux requires some beefy pinch-gripping then things ease. Large cams help.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
14
Babylon's Finale
Linking the two routes via the slanting crack is artificial but pleasant enough. Well protected.
 VS
15
Babylon's Groove
Follow the right-hand branch of the Y-shaped crack to a tricky exit. Avoid the final chimney by using the crack on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
16
Central Groove
The continuous crack-line has tricky moves to reach the easy vegetated chimney above.
1 user comment
 VS
17
Tree Groove
Climb the pleasant groove until level with the tree, then move right awkwardly (large cam) into a narrow rift to finish....
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
18
Tree Groove Direct
Climb to the tree then continue up the wall. Tricky if the tree is used and trickier still if is avoided.
 
1 Stars
VS
19
Right-Hand Groove
The penultimate crack gives vegetated bridging. The original and easier start was up the next crack.
 VS
20
Spilt Crack
Up the last crack in the face then move right to where a second crack splits the bulge and provides the meat of the route.
 VS
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOM'S

    Corner Crack
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 23/Mar

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

    The Enigma Variation
    "A good little route that packs it in on very steep rock. Reasonable cams and hol..." 16/Aug

    Moyer's Buttress
    "No in situ sling. But a hands-off kneebar rest by the block. Ace!" 06/Aug top50

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