Adjacent Areas
< None | None >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
5 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
Restricted Access
Keep off the crag top.
Another attraction for sport climbers in Devon is Torbryan Quarry. Although only small, it has one of those faces that only quarrying can reveal. Along with the amazing organ-pipe rock and gently overhanging routes, Torbryan can be considered an excellent wet weather venue and a good training ground in winter. Most of the routes have solid resin staples. Guidebook page 314.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Peggy Potato 12m. A short, technical route taking a small slanting corner on the far left of the crag. Start by a block/flake at ground... 1 user comment | Technical | 6b |
2 |
Pebbles 14m. Very technical climbing of the short and sharp variety. 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | 6c |
3 |
The Wages of Fear 15m. Gain a ledge from a slim left-leaning groove. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
4 |
Viscious Delicious 16m. A (slightly) harder right-hand finish to Wages. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
5 |
Little White Lie 17m. A delightfully technical route with a tricky second clip. The red-point crux is the stretch for the ledge at the top. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
6 |
Little White Lie Direct 16m. An slightly easier variation to its parent route. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
7 |
Mayday Top 50 18m. A superb route up the dramatic and sustained central groove. Well worth searching out. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
8 |
Threadbare Top 50 21m. The long reach symbol is for your feet on the crux step left. It has an independent start but it is better to start up... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
9 |
Thread Flintstone Top 50 22m. The best route here and one of the classic quarry routes of Britain. Superb rock, moves and flowstone pipes all topped off... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
10 |
Bam Bam 22m. A confusing eliminate. Take some wires. Cross Boogie on Down and then climb the wall to finish up the rib left of Famine... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
11 |
Barney Rubble Top 50 22m. Smart and varied climbing with a pumpy finish. Variation - Finish up Boogie on Down for another excellent 7a+. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
12 |
Boogie on Down 22m. The original line up this section is still very worthwhile. Take a few wires for the initial crack. Starting up Bam Bam... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
13 |
Look Back in Anger 22m. The crux traverse onto the ramp can be protected by clipping the bolt on the arete above. Check the peg is in place. 1 user comment | Technical | E4 6b |
14 |
Crosstown Traffic 34m. A right-to-left traverse. Start up Boogie on Down (wires). Follow a subtle diagonal line to finish at the ledge above... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
15 |
Famine 18m. The open groove is gained by a traverse from a tree on the right. The groove past a peg provides some tricky climbing to a... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E2 5c |
