The Main Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Another attraction for sport climbers in Devon is Torbryan Quarry. Although only small, it has one of those faces that only quarrying can reveal. Along with the amazing organ-pipe rock and gently overhanging routes, Torbryan can be considered an excellent wet weather venue and a good training ground in winter. Most of the routes have solid resin staples. Guidebook page 314.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Peggy Potato
12m. A short, technical route taking a small slanting corner on the far left of the crag. Start by a block/flake at ground...
1 user comment
 
Technical
6b
2
Pebbles
14m. Very technical climbing of the short and sharp variety.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
The Wages of Fear
15m. Gain a ledge from a slim left-leaning groove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Viscious Delicious
16m. A (slightly) harder right-hand finish to Wages.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
5
Little White Lie
17m. A delightfully technical route with a tricky second clip. The red-point crux is the stretch for the ledge at the top.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
6
Little White Lie Direct
16m. An slightly easier variation to its parent route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
7
Mayday Top 50
18m. A superb route up the dramatic and sustained central groove. Well worth searching out.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
8
Threadbare Top 50
21m. The long reach symbol is for your feet on the crux step left. It has an independent start but it is better to start up...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
9
Thread Flintstone Top 50
22m. The best route here and one of the classic quarry routes of Britain. Superb rock, moves and flowstone pipes all topped off...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
Bam Bam
22m. A confusing eliminate. Take some wires. Cross Boogie on Down and then climb the wall to finish up the rib left of Famine...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
11
Barney Rubble Top 50
22m. Smart and varied climbing with a pumpy finish. Variation - Finish up Boogie on Down for another excellent 7a+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
12
Boogie on Down
22m. The original line up this section is still very worthwhile. Take a few wires for the initial crack. Starting up Bam Bam...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
13
Look Back in Anger
22m. The crux traverse onto the ramp can be protected by clipping the bolt on the arete above. Check the peg is in place.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4 6b
14
Crosstown Traffic
34m. A right-to-left traverse. Start up Boogie on Down (wires). Follow a subtle diagonal line to finish at the ledge above...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
15
Famine
18m. The open groove is gained by a traverse from a tree on the right. The groove past a peg provides some tricky climbing to a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For TORBRYAN QUARRY

    Thread Flintstone
    "Sorry Mr H I disagree I did empire second go and thought it was a path once you ..." 24/Feb top50

    Peggy Potato
    "Vicious fingery move to start, then easy" 02/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "This is not 7b. Empire is 7b. This is hard 7a+." 22/Jun top50

    Thread Flintstone
    "Great no-hands rest mid-route if you're cunning..." 05/Sep top50

    Boogie on Down
    "Route now fully bolted, no need for wires. Watch the clip at the third bolt, has..." 21/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Brilliant, just brilliant. If this is 7a+ then Barney Rubble is 7a tops... i'd ..." 06/May top50

    Thread Flintstone
    "Bog standard 7a+. Nice route, but you need to go to Chapel Head Scar for the bes..." 21/Jul top50

    The Wages of Fear
    "I agree with Needlespoon, 7a." 03/Oct

    Barney Rubble
    "Only redpointed this after one top-rope play (warming up for flashing Mayday). V..." 01/Oct top50

    Pebbles
    "A cruxy route. Would imagine its very hard to onsight. It seems to send you the ..." 16/Aug

    The Wages of Fear
    "7a, like it says in the Nick White guide" 20/Jul

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