North Fin

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Middle Fin - North Face >

Trad
Sun and Shade
35 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

A fabulous wall of jug-infested culm that provides some of the most inspiring single-pitch climbs on the coast. The protection possibilities and the rock quality are generally good and climbing is possible for a longer length of time than on the other faces if the abseil approach is utilised. In contrast the north face offers a sheer, black and very blank-looking wall that sees no sun and as a consequence is the most intimidating of the cliff's walls. The climbing is spectacular, although the gear availability and rock quality are variable.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hatchet
25m. The long groove up the left-hand edge of the wall.
 HVS 4c
2
The Devonian
A hard pitch up the very centre of the face. Start in the centre of the wall below a thin left-trending crack. Climb up to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5
3
Mascon
Sustained and strenuous crack-climbing in an outrageous position. Start at a crack-system 3m left of the seaward...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
4
Misery Goat
An impressive wall-climb that is endowed with good holds. Start below the upper end of a low, left-trending crack in the centre...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
5
Last Laugh
A good line on good rock with a testing but well-protected crux. Start on a boulder at the base of a low, left-trending crack...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
6
The Smirk
30m. The direct finish to Last Laugh.
 E1 5a
7
When the Goat Comes In
30m. An eliminate but with some good bold climbing. Climb direct up the wall to the break of The Smile. Follow this leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
8
Diamond Smiles Top 50
Brilliant wall-climbing on excellent rock. Start in the centre of the wall at a boulder below a wide horizontal crack at...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3
9
Crooked Mile Top 50
Another great pitch taking a direct line up the wall passing the break of The Smile. Start 4m right of the boulder at the start...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
10
Wraith
Enjoyable, well-protected wall climbing. Start at a thin line that leads up to the break of The Smile.Climb the thin line...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
11
The Smile Top 50
A fabulous route that follows the sweeping, wide break across the face of the fin and is topped off by a well-positioned thin...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1
12
Out of the Blue Top 50
A really good and mighty popular pitch that requires care in its lower reaches. Start below a short crack in a bulge and...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2
13
Sea Green Top 50
A similar but harder climb to its neighbour Out of the Blue. Start between the crack in the bulge of Out of the Blue and the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
  • Latest Comments

    For LOWER SHARPNOSE

    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Wraith
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Wraith
    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May

    Hellbound on my Trail
    "Thought this was quite tricky, harder than Fay, but I was tired. Surprisingly in..." 21/Jul

    Lunakhod
    "A massive and wonderfull pitch. Make sure you take extra extenders and large gea..." 29/Apr top50

    Finesse
    "Chalked up holds mentioned above is a new route by Dave Pickford, "Tokyo fi..." 16/Oct

    Crooked Mile
    "Typical Sharpnose top quality with typical Sharpnose grades i.e. feels pretty ea..." 10/Sep top50

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