Middle Fin - North Face

Adjacent Areas
< North Fin  |  Middle Fin - South Face >

Trad
Sun and Shade
35 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

An impressive sweep of culm that is cut by a couple of tall corner-cracks which are the lines for two of Sharpnose's great HVSs pitches. The rock is not as solid as it first appears and needs careful handling in places, although protection is normally at hand.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Flying Finn
45m. Start up Spoils of War before traversing left into a clean crack which leads to the top. A long pitch.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Spoils of War
A huge pitch that incorporates some fine climbing, although not without some loose rock in its mid section. Start at a thin...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E4
3
Lunakhod Top 50
One of the Culm Coast's greatest lines - both intimidating and sustained. A good number of cams is needed. Start below the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
4
Clawtrack
The wide crack/flake system on the left side of the face is a good climb that requires a lot of large cams and/or nuts. Start...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS
5
Culm to Mother
35m. A spectacular line but poor fixed gear at present. An abseil inspection is advisable.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Twilight Zone
35m. The main line on this side of the wall. Begin up Clawtrack then head right along the crack. Pull steeply onto the wall...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
7
Challenger
35m. From where Twilight Zone goes straight up, continue right for 3m then climb the wall above. Similar to Twilight Zone but...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
8
Small Plate McGinty
30m. The scary direct start to Challenger.
 
Fluttery
E5 6b
9
A Tonic for the Troops
20m. Something easier and on better rock. The wall just left of the edge of the face, starting up a short flake. Continue...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
10
Mother's Ruin
20m. A counter line to Tonic. Start right of the flake.
 E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For LOWER SHARPNOSE

    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Wraith
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Wraith
    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May

    Hellbound on my Trail
    "Thought this was quite tricky, harder than Fay, but I was tired. Surprisingly in..." 21/Jul

    Lunakhod
    "A massive and wonderfull pitch. Make sure you take extra extenders and large gea..." 29/Apr top50

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