Apple Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
15 mins
Level
Sheltered

One of the best bits of rock on the cliff with the classics of N.M.C. Crack and Apple Arete. The edge juts above the foliage and is a good bet for much of the year, plus the outward views are great. To the right is a short quarried slab with a pleasant collection of cracks and a couple of harder slab climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Layback Crack
The left-hand crack is short-lived and honest hard work! A slippery little monkey where 'cracking on' is essential.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS
2
Flake Crack
Better that it looks and with tricky moves at the nose - harder for the short who will struggle to reach past the crux. Only HS...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
3
Twilight's Last Gleaming
Climb the slab to the left of N.M.C. Crack to a good ledge and then the rib on the left to the top. A green eliminate.
 E2
4
N.M.C. Crack
The fine stepped-groove in the north face of the buttress leads to a short crack and mini-summit. Polished and popular but...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD
5
Apple Arete Direct
The lower arete is very bold requiring unprotected, rounded and scary laybacking. More like a sensible E1 5c with side-runners.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4
6
Apple Arete
The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the...
19 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
7
Apple Crack
The wide crack in the buttress leads to a good ledge below the summit, passing the jutting flake. The crack of Giant's...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
8
Apple Core
The slab using the pinch on the lip and a side-runner.
2 user comments
 
Technical
E2
9
Cider Apple
From the right-hand side of the buttress move left past the arete then climb the right edge of the slab to a large ledge. The...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
10
Giant's Staircase
The steep stepped crack in the side-wall leads to a short slippery layback (crux), and then a final steep jamming crack leads...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
11
Bitter
The thin crack with a useful but flexible spike (nut either side or a thin tape over it) is technical and slippery but nice and...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
12
Master of Thought
The steep slab is especially sketchy for the short. Side-runners drop the grade a notch or two. Loss of a hold may have made...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
13
Velvet Cracks
The thin crack in the right side of the slab is pleasant and popular despite being a bit of an eliminate. It is well protected.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
14
Apple Jack Cracks
Parallel jamming cracks splitting the centre of the slab can be gained directly, though a balancy ledge traverse from the right...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
15
Cydrax
A fingery slab leads, with a stretch, to a short finishing crack.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
16
Cider
The delicate right-hand arete of the wall is tricky, poorly protected and high in the grade! Starting by laybacking out of the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
17
Blenheim Gully
The right-hand corner of the pit has a tricky undercut start, a beefy wide crack and short unprotected wall to finish.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
18
Blenheim Buttress
Climb awkwardly to a ledge and loose flake then swing boldly round left to the gully and back right a bit higher up. The creaky...
 E1
19
Blenheim
The line up front of the buttress is a more direct version of the previous climb and is another serious one. It is the last...
 
1 Stars
E1
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOM'S

    Apple Arete
    "Modern friends make this pretty well protected: these days I reckon more like HS..." 14/Apr

    Corner Crack
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 23/Mar

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

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