Apple Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Grooved Wall  |  Pillar Wall >

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Level
Sheltered

One of the best bits of rock on the cliff, and popular because of the classics of N.M.C. Crack and Apple Arete. The edge is far enough above the foliage to be a good bet for much of the year and the outward views are great. To the right is a short slab quarried long ago. This has a pleasant collection of cracks and a couple of harder climbs up the blank slabs between them.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Layback Crack
12m. The left-hand crack is short-lived and honest hard work!
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
2
Flake-crack
12m. Better than it looks and with tricky moves at the nose - harder for the short who will struggle to reach past the crux.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS 4b
3
Twilight's Last Gleaming
14m. Climb the slab to the left of N.M.C. Crack to a good ledge and then the rib on the left to the top. A green eliminate.
 
Rounded
E2 5b
4
N.M.C. Crack
14m. The fine stepped-groove slanting up the north face of the buttress leads to a short crack and mini-summit. Polished and...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD
5
Apple Arete Direct
18m. The lower arete is very bold with scary rounded laybacking - not one for warm weather. Worth E1 5c with side-runners.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
6
Apple Arete
18m. The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
7
Apple Crack
16m. The wide crack in the buttress leads to a good ledge below the summit, passing the jutting flake. The crack of Giant's...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Cheeky Monkey
14m. The overlap and slab using the pinch on the lip. Side runner.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 6b
9
Cider Apple
16m. From the right-hand side of the buttress move left past the arete then climb the right edge of the slab to a large ledge....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HS 4a
10
Giant's Staircase
14m. The steep stepped-crack in the side wall leads to a short slippery layback (crux) and then a final steep jamming crack...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
11
Bitter
8m. The thin crack with a useful spike (nut either side or a tape over it) is technical and slippery but nice and safe.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
12
Master of Thought
8m. The steep slab is especially sketchy for the short. Side-runners drop the grade a notch or two. Loss of a hold may have...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
13
Velvet Cracks
8m. The thin crack in the right side of the slab is pleasant and popular despite being a bit of an eliminate. It is well...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4b
14
Apple Jack Cracks
8m. Parallel jamming cracks splitting the centre of the slab are best gained direct though a balancy ledge traverse from the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
15
Cydrax
8m. A fingery slab leads to a short finishing crack.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
16
Cider
8m. The delicate right-hand arete of the wall is tricky, poorly protected and high in the grade! Starting by laybacking out of...
6 user comments
 
Fluttery
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOMS

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

    The Enigma Variation
    "A good little route that packs it in on very steep rock. Reasonable cams and hol..." 16/Aug

    Search for comments