Middle Fin - South Face

Adjacent Areas
< Middle Fin - North Face  |  South Fin >

Trad
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Downhill
Tidal

The magnificent south wall of the middle fin is one of the most impressive faces in Britain. The routes are all in the upper grades and tend to be more bold and sustained than technically hard. Guidebook page 6.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Finesse
20m. The best attempt yet to climb the narrow front face of the fin. Belay then continue easily up the ridge to the Fay belay...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
2
Break On Through Top 50
An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
3
Pacemaker Top 50
An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
4
Sunscape
25m. A difficult route which fills the gap between Break on Through and Pacemaker.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6a
5
Fay Top 50
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
6
Diastole
30m. Another fine eliminate line crossing the diagonal breaks direct above the start of Pacemaker. The direct finish which will...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
7
Coronary Country Top 50
A high grade testpiece of the Culm Coast that combines some technical and fingery climbing in its mid-section, with a tiring...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
8
The Monk's Satanic Verses
Another quality climb that takes on one of the blankest-looking sections of wall on the face and has a particularly hard...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 6c
9
Hellbound on my Trail Top 50
45m. A long rising traverse linking the start of Coronary Country with the finish of Break on Through. More independent than...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
10
Heart By-pass Top 50
30m. It canít fail to be good really since it uses the start of Fay to reach the finish of Pacemaker. Sustained and well...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
11
Azrael
40m. Further right the wall becomes dusty, however it isnít loose. The climbing on this line is easier than the route to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
12
Hearts and Minds
45m. Super serious stuff up the wall further right. Loose and dangerous with poor gear.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For LOWER SHARPNOSE

    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Wraith
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb top50

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct top50

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Wraith
    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun top50

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May top50

    Hellbound on my Trail
    "Thought this was quite tricky, harder than Fay, but I was tired. Surprisingly in..." 21/Jul top50

    Lunakhod
    "A massive and wonderfull pitch. Make sure you take extra extenders and large gea..." 29/Apr top50

    Finesse
    "Chalked up holds mentioned above is a new route by Dave Pickford, "Tokyo fi..." 16/Oct

    Search for comments