Adjacent Areas
< Middle Fin - North Face | South Fin >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Downhill
20 minsTidal
Windy
The magnificent south wall of the middle fin is one of the most impressive faces in Britain. The routes are all in the upper grades and tend to be more bold and sustained than technically hard. Guidebook page 6.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Finesse 20m. The best attempt yet to climb the narrow front face of the fin. Belay then continue easily up the ridge to the Fay belay... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
2 |
Break On Through Top 50 An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 5c |
3 |
Pacemaker Top 50 An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
4 |
Sunscape 25m. A difficult route which fills the gap between Break on Through and Pacemaker. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6a |
5 |
Fay Top 50 A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 5c |
6 |
Diastole 30m. Another fine eliminate line crossing the diagonal breaks direct above the start of Pacemaker. The direct finish which will... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
7 |
Coronary Country Top 50 A high grade testpiece of the Culm Coast that combines some technical and fingery climbing in its mid-section, with a tiring... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
8 |
The Monk's Satanic Verses Another quality climb that takes on one of the blankest-looking sections of wall on the face and has a particularly hard... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E8 6c |
9 |
Hellbound on my Trail Top 50 45m. A long rising traverse linking the start of Coronary Country with the finish of Break on Through. More independent than... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
10 |
Heart By-pass Top 50 30m. It can’t fail to be good really since it uses the start of Fay to reach the finish of Pacemaker. Sustained and well... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
11 |
Azrael 40m. Further right the wall becomes dusty, however it isn’t loose. The climbing on this line is easier than the route to the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
12 |
Hearts and Minds 45m. Super serious stuff up the wall further right. Loose and dangerous with poor gear. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | E6 6a |
