Sarcophagus Area and Gagool Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Cow Cave to Space Buttress  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The first sighting of the main climbing area at Chudleigh is on the right after passing the rather gloomy North Face (which is on private land). The barred-off cave of Pixies Hole is a popular bouldering haunt and marks the start of the main climbing at Chudleigh. Both the Gagool Buttress and the Sarcophagus Area hold some exceptional climbs that follow either strong crack-lines and aretes or thin faces on crimps and pockets. The rock and protection is usually good. However, the most popular lines of Sarcophagus and Chudleigh Overhang are very polished and are best not attempted in hot and/or humid weather.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Greenmantle Top 50
1) Climb up and then right (continuing direct is Tar Baby Severe) on good holds, then trend back left on more good holds to a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
D
2
Sarcophagus Top 50
A line and a half! The overhang-strewn corner requires a wide range of manoeuvres and, although polished to a high sheen, it is...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4b
3
Oesophagus Top 50
The bending hand-crack in the overhanging white wall to the right of the corner of Sarcophagus is a great test of jamming...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Combat Top 50
An extremely fine and challenging pitch that doesn't let up from the very start. Start below the hand-crack of Oesophagus. Move...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
5
Combined Ops Top 50
The striking arete is as good as it looks. Protection from small wires is ample and the climbing is technical and sustained....
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5b
6
Gagool
A fingery exercise on excellent rock that requires a determined approach. Start just left of the arete below an old ring peg at...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5b
7
Gagool Direct
A good first pitch with thin gear at the start.1) 5b. Start just left of Logic at a small left facing corner and climb...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
8
Logic
A fine route with two excellent pitches. The line of the first pitch is very obvious. The start is a little slick but things...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CHUDLEIGH ROCKS

    Wogs
    "Chris Hurlock c.hurlock@harbourchallenge.co.uk Great climb polished at the b..." 15/Dec top50

    Twang
    "This was HVS in the Nick White CC guide. E1 seems fair now the peg has gone and ..." 22/May top50

    Smoke Gets In Your Eyes
    "short, desperate, insecure, awkward, but still strangely enjoyable." 26/Aug

    Wogs
    "Rock is in a bad way, polished to a high sheen in the bottom half of the route." 09/Aug top50

    Mortality Crisis
    "There are two directs on this. Most obvious- go straight from the peg at the top..." 22/Apr

    The Spider
    "Peg on first pitch has been chopped through the eye. Makes the pitch bolder as t..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Great climb with 3 wonderfully varied first pitches and then a relaxed scramble ..." 20/Jun top50

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