Kremlin Krack

Adjacent Areas
< White House Buttress  |  Blizzard Ridge >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The left-hand end of the main section of the cliff is a steep bay bounded on the right by some low-angled slabs. The routes here are well-sheltered, even staying dry in the rain, and are generally hard and fingery. The twin chimneys to the right are safe graunches whereas the slab to the right again is more open and airy. Guidebook page 60.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ausfahrt
14m. The arete of the wall has an overhang early on and a bold finish up the blunt rib. Tiny wires can be placed over on Exit.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
Exit
14m. Climb a thin crack through the bulge and the delicate wall above trending to the right. Tiny wires offer some protection.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Jaded
14m. Climb the centre of the wall to the bulge and make a hard pull on tiny holds to pass this. Once established it gets...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
4
Der Kommissar
As for Jaded but use the good hold on the right on Mootan to cross the bulge. Possibly the only real line on this wall since...
1 user comment
 E4 6b
5
Moontan
14m. The right-hand side of the wall is desperate problem (V7) to the break and only a little easier above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6c
6
Kremlin Krack
14m. A fine and intimidating route that would not be out of place on Curbar. The upper section is hard to enter, although...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Graunchy
HVS 5a
7
Scarlett's Chimney
14m. The chimney on the right side of the hanging rib is an altogether easier affair than its neighbour though it is still a...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
VS 4b
8
Left Under
14m. A groove to the left of Left Edge leads awkwardly to a position below the flake of Left Edge. Layback up and right to join...
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
9
Left Edge
14m. The arete of the slab is fine climb, delicate with an interesting detour out left onto a hanging flange. The hard moves...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4c
10
Better Late than Never
14m. The slab direct; it is delicate and protection is limited.
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
11
Angle Rib
10m. The thin crack and awkward hanging arete above.
 
Technical
HVS 5a
12
Angle Crack
10m. The main groove improves with height.
3 user comments
 D
13
Solitaire
10m. The right-trending crack to a move right below the top.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
14
Isolation
10m. The wide crack is pleasanter than it looks!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
15
Rodney's Dilemma
10m. The arete; nice moves with fiddly runners in the breaks.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
16
Clinker
10m. Easy climbing leads to a ledge then make a weird move on a small pebble in the middle of the scoop and rock right to the...
1 user comment
 
Technical
E5 6c
17
Temple Crack
10m. The groove and steep crack has good holds and runners.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
18
Crafty Cockney
8m. An eliminate up the narrow wall passing a thin overlap.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
19
Pious Flake
8m. Steep but short-lived. Finish up the grotty slotty.
 S 4b
20
Tree Crack
8m. Good climbing to the woodwork and a tricky little finish up the continuation crack above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
21
Ulex
12m. The left-hand of the near parallel cracks was a good effort for its day. A huge cam or two will be found useful by most....
4 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
22
Gardener's Pleasure
12m. The widening right-hand crack is better. Large gear is needed for the middle section and the finish is a bit of a grovel -...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
23
White Out
14m. The centre of the left-hand wall avoiding the tendency to drift too far towards the arete as much as possible. Follow the...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For RIVELIN

    Jonad Rib
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    April Fool
    "Line in the Fax guide seems too far left, ignore this? Protectable enough with s..." 09/Mar

    Altar Crack
    "What you see is what you get! A full on layback well beyond the easy gear. Eith..." 05/Mar

    Crack One
    "easy low down, felt hard at the top, the loose jug doesnt help. Harder than S4a" 03/Mar

    Croton Oil
    "Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks...." 29/Jan top50

    Croton Oil
    "just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as ..." 09/Jan top50

    Oversight
    "I agree: somewhere in between VS 4c & the Severe 4a it gets on the UKC datab..." 09/Jan

    Easy Picking
    "I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the l..." 06/Nov

    Easy Picking
    "Great little route, full on E2!" 29/Oct

    Ausfahrt
    "Rather bold (the lovely moves on the upper wall are unprotected), but only 5b; s..." 19/Oct

    The Spiral Route
    "A good adventure. I regret trying to do it in one pitch. By the time I was at th..." 27/Jul

    Angst
    "The top out isn't the rounded horror show the guidebook makes it sound like. Bom..." 04/Jul

    Nonsuch
    "So hard! Terrazza Crack, Surgeon's Saunter etc are hard at HVS, but this is a jo..." 16/May

    Tree Crack
    "Easy Diff except for the top out which is tricky for VDiff (though well protect..." 15/May

    White Out
    "The line is clearly too vague to form a concensus on the grade, as the further l..." 25/Apr

    Ausfahrt
    "There's now no wire placements once stood up on the ledge" 15/Apr

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