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The finest climbing at Carreg-y-Barcud is on the huge main slab. The routes here tend to be sustained and technical with the well protected ones following thin cracks (small wires useful) and the bold ones up the gaps in between. Guidebook page 58.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Left Edge 18m. Interesting climbing up the edge of the slab which also provides an easy escape route. | 1 Stars | VD |
2 |
My Back Pages 18m. The thin wall right of the arete. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
3 |
Metamorphosis 18m. A justifiably popular route up the line of cracks six metres to the right of the arete. 5 user comments | 2 Stars | HS 4b |
4 |
Be Careful 18m. A thin crack system is the first discernable line. | Fluttery | E1 5a |
5 |
Be-bop-a-lula 18m. Head up the slab to pass the left-hand side of the flake above the mid-height break. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5a |
6 |
Be Reckless 18m. This time climb to and past the right-hand side of the flake above the break. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E2 5b |
7 |
Be Brave 18m. A good route. Thin cracks lead to the break, then trend left. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
8 |
Beeline 18m. Excellent thin climbing following vague cracks to right. | 2 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Starling by the Seaside 18m. More good climbing, thin and fairly bold. | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
10 |
Be Clever 18m. Great climbing with a very thin but well protected crux to finish. This is the line to the left of the prominent square... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | E1 5c |
11 |
The Great Valerio 40m. Brilliant; one the crag’s strongest lines. Low in the grade. Climbing with your hands in the break provides the best... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5a |
12 |
Snap Crackle 'n' Splash 18m. Bold climbing past the square pocket and up the wall above. | Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
13 |
A Head in the Clouds 24m. Bold climbing up the thin cracks just right of the hole with a testing move to reach the break. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
14 |
Kitten Claws 24m. The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
15 |
Commoner's Rights 24m. A bold eliminate up the blank piece of slab between Mean Feat and Kitten Claws. The crux is protected only by a skyhook. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6a |
16 |
Mean Feat 24m. Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws.... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
17 |
Thrift 24m. More superb climbing starting at the 'non-line' to the left of the point where the diagonal break reaches the ledges ... | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E6 6b |
18 |
Billy Spragg 30m. A good route but it gets lost higher up. Follow the diagonal crack to the main break. Traverse left and finish up Kitten... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Crimpy | E3 6a |
19 |
All or Nothing 25m. Break out right from Billy Spragg and go! Desperate. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6c |
20 |
Daddy Cool 20m. A very serious route but it avoids the direct challenge high up. Climb the protectionless slab direct by increasingly thin... | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E8 6b |
21 |
Sledgehamer 20m. Direct up the blank right-hand side of the slab. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
22 |
Naddyn 18m. The bold wall left of the corner has some chipped holds. Gear can be placed from the corner to protect the crux. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
23 |
First Corner 15m. The stepped corners is easy enough, and pleasant too. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
24 |
First Corner Direct 22m. The cracks in the face round to the right are worthwhile. | 1 Stars Crimpy | VS 4c |
25 |
I'm Not Addicted... 22m. Very bold, blank and loose. Skyhooks may help protect. | Fluttery Loose | E6 6a |
26 |
Beyond the Beyond 18m. The left-hand of two diagonal cracks. The crux is at the top and the whole affair is harder for the short. | 2 Stars Reachy Crimpy | E5 6b |
27 |
Beyond the Azimuth 16m. A great route up the right-hand crack. Use the crack first for your hands and then for your feet. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
28 |
Double Corner 15m. The three corners! Use the right arete when it gets tough. | S 4a | |
29 |
Rust Never Sleeps 18m. The bold wall. Once had 3 bolts and now has none. | Fluttery | E3 5b |
30 |
Stingray 18m. A good route up the central crackline. The 6b direct start is by-passed at this grade by starting from the ledge on the... | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
31 |
Gilded Moments 18m. Another cleaned up ex-bolt route. Bold and sustained. | Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
32 |
Just Fits 18m. The wide crack in the third of the corners is the wrong size for most folks. | Graunchy | HVS 4c |
33 |
Shelf Life 18m. The stepped arete has a bold upper section. 1 user comment | Fluttery | E3 5b |
34 |
The Fermenting Telescope 18m. The two tiered cracks round right from Just Fits. 1 user comment | HVS 5a | |
