Main Face

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Lots of sun!
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal

The finest climbing at Carreg-y-Barcud is on the huge main slab. The routes here tend to be sustained and technical with the well protected ones following thin cracks (small wires useful) and the bold ones up the gaps in between.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Edge
18m. Interesting climbing up the edge of the slab which also provides an easy escape route.
 
1 Stars
VD
2
My Back Pages
18m. The thin wall right of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
3
Metamorphosis
18m. A justifiably popular route up the line of cracks six metres to the right of the arete.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
4
Be Careful
18m. A thin crack system is the first discernable line.
 
Fluttery
E1 5a
5
Be-bop-a-lula
18m. Head up the slab to pass the left-hand side of the flake above the mid-height break.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5a
6
Be Reckless
18m. This time climb to and past the right-hand side of the flake above the break.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5b
7
Be Brave
18m. A good route. Thin cracks lead to the break, then trend left.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
8
Beeline
18m. Excellent thin climbing following vague cracks to right.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
9
Starling by the Seaside
18m. More good climbing, thin and fairly bold.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Be Clever
18m. Great climbing with a very thin but well protected crux to finish. This is the line to the left of the prominent square...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5c
11
The Great Valerio
40m. Brilliant; one the crag’s strongest lines. Low in the grade. Climbing with your hands in the break provides the best...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5a
12
Snap Crackle 'n' Splash
18m. Bold climbing past the square pocket and up the wall above.
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
13
A Head in the Clouds
24m. Bold climbing up the thin cracks just right of the hole with a testing move to reach the break.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
14
Kitten Claws
24m. The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
15
Commoner's Rights
24m. A bold eliminate up the blank piece of slab between Mean Feat and Kitten Claws. The crux is protected only by a skyhook.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
16
Mean Feat
24m. Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
17
Thrift
24m. More superb climbing starting at the 'non-line' to the left of the point where the diagonal break reaches the ledges ...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
18
Billy Spragg
30m. A good route but it gets lost higher up. Follow the diagonal crack to the main break. Traverse left and finish up Kitten...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E3 6a
19
All or Nothing
25m. Break out right from Billy Spragg and go! Desperate.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
20
Daddy Cool
20m. A very serious route but it avoids the direct challenge high up. Climb the protectionless slab direct by increasingly thin...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E8 6b
21
Sledgehamer
20m. Direct up the blank right-hand side of the slab.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
22
Naddyn
18m. The bold wall left of the corner has some chipped holds. Gear can be placed from the corner to protect the crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
23
First Corner
15m. The stepped corners is easy enough, and pleasant too.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
24
First Corner Direct
22m. The cracks in the face round to the right are worthwhile.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
25
I'm Not Addicted...
22m. Very bold, blank and loose. Skyhooks may help protect.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6a
26
Beyond the Beyond
18m. The left-hand of two diagonal cracks. The crux is at the top and the whole affair is harder for the short.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E5 6b
27
Beyond the Azimuth
16m. A great route up the right-hand crack. Use the crack first for your hands and then for your feet.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
28
Double Corner
15m. The three corners! Use the right arete when it gets tough.
 S 4a
29
Rust Never Sleeps
18m. The bold wall. Once had 3 bolts and now has none.
 
Fluttery
E3 5b
30
Stingray
18m. A good route up the central crackline. The 6b direct start is by-passed at this grade by starting from the ledge on the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
31
Gilded Moments
18m. Another cleaned up ex-bolt route. Bold and sustained.
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
32
Just Fits
18m. The wide crack in the third of the corners is the wrong size for most folks.
 
Graunchy
HVS 4c
33
Shelf Life
18m. The stepped arete has a bold upper section.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E3 5b
34
The Fermenting Telescope
18m. The two tiered cracks round right from Just Fits.
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For CARREG-Y-BARCUD

    Sinecure
    "Perhaps the one of the most aesthetically pleasing routes ever. A soft E1, but f..." 07/Sep

    Be Clever
    "also agree- E2 (hard) 5c. Ace." 16/Apr

    The Woodentops
    "Enjoyably technical. A few small cams would have come in handy...... but still e..." 01/Apr

    Be-bop-a-lula
    "Agree with Chris - maybe we were strayed too far right, but the top was hard wit..." 04/May

    Be Brave
    "Overall it felt quite low in the grade to me but a good route" 31/Aug

    The Fermenting Telescope
    "Maybe I'd been spoilt on the slabs, but this felt like very hard sustained climb..." 05/Oct

    Shelf Life
    "F.A: J Bull, for the record!" 07/Sep

    Metamorphosis
    "This is a superb route that I have recommended to a lot of people who all topped..." 13/May

    Be-bop-a-lula
    "Good lower half, but seems to suffer a loss of identity higher up. Not much easi..." 30/Sep

    Be Clever
    "Agree totally with fiend. The middle section is run out on very sketchy and thin..." 22/Jul

    Sinecure
    "Really nice climb. Positive holds, good gear, low in the grade. Shame it's all o..." 21/May

    Sinecure
    "Don't understand these comments, the route has bomber wires all over it, and giv..." 06/May

    Be Brave
    "I forgot about the step left and so tried to finish direct - very thin and bold...." 14/Nov

    Metamorphosis
    "Surprisingly nice for a HS!" 30/Jul

    Beyond the Azimuth
    "Seconded it, should've led it. Next time Gadget." 09/May

    Ethos
    "First HVS must of put over 20 pieces of gear in, my harness was very light by th..." 29/Mar top50

    Naddyn
    "All gear can be placed ON lead." 02/May

    The Hypocrite
    "One of the best routes at the crag." 02/May

    Mean Feat
    "I seconded this, but would still advise anyone to get on it. The gear is 'reason..." 19/Apr

    Kitten Claws
    "An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below -..." 10/Apr

    Metamorphosis
    "Nice solo" 07/Apr

    Beyond the Azimuth
    "I found it great fun but it realy was suprising how sustained it was for a short..." 03/Nov

    Ethos
    "this was a right little bugger" 20/Sep top50

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