Main Face

Adjacent Areas
< Yellow Wall  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The finest climbing at Carreg-y-Barcud is on the huge main slab. The routes here tend to be sustained and technical with the well protected ones following thin cracks and the bold ones plugging the gaps in between. The majestic central section of the Main Wall gives some of the classic sea-cliff slab-ticks in Britain. Take plenty of small wires and make sure your calf muscles are well warmed up.
Approach - The most common approach is direct by abseil from the block at the top of the wall, above Mean Feet. Before chucking your rope down have a look to see that there is no-one on the main routes! At low tide it is possible to scramble down via ledges on the far right (looking in) and walk along the sea-washed ledges below the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Edge
Interesting climbing up the edge of the slab which also provides an easy escape route.
 
1 Stars
VD
2
My Back Pages
The thin wall right of the arete.
 
1 Stars
E1
3
Metamorphosis
A justifiably popular route up the line of cracks six metres to the right of the arete.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
4
Be Careful
A thin crack system is the first discernable line.
 E1
5
Be-bop-a-lula
Head up the slab to pass the left-hand side of the flake above the mid-height break.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
6
Be Reckless
This time climb to and past the right-hand side of the flake above the break.
 
1 Stars
E2
7
Be Brave
A good route. Thin cracks lead to the break, then trend left.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
8
Beeline
Excellent thin climbing following vague cracks to right.
 
2 Stars
E1
9
Starling by the Seaside
More good climbing, thin and fairly bold.
 
2 Stars
E2
10
Be Clever
Great climbing with a very thin but well protected crux to finish. This is the line to the left of the prominent square pocket...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
11
The Great Valerio
Brilliant; one the crag's strongest lines. Low in the grade. Climbing with your hands in the break provides the best...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
HVS
12
Snap Crackle 'n' Splash
Bold climbing past the square pocket and up the wall above.
 E4
13
A Head in the Clouds
Bold climbing up the thin cracks just right of the hole with a testing move to reach the break.
 
1 Stars
E4
14
Kitten Claws
The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
15
Commoner's Rights
A bold eliminate up the blank piece of slab between Mean Feat and Kitten Claws. The crux is protected only by a skyhook.
 
1 Stars
E6
16
Mean Feat
Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E5
17
Thrift
More superb climbing starting at the 'non-line' to the left of the point where the diagonal break reaches the ledges Climb...
 
2 Stars
E6
18
Billy Spragg
A good route but it gets lost higher up. Follow the diagonal crack to the main break. Traverse left and finish up Kitten Claws.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3
19
All or Nothing
Break out right from Billy Spragg and go! Desperate.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
20
Daddy Cool
A very serious route but it avoids the direct challenge high up. Climb the protectionless slab direct by increasingly thin...
 
2 Stars
E8
21
Sledgehamer
Direct up the blank right-hand side of the slab.
 
2 Stars
E6
22
Naddyn
The bold wall left of the corner has some chipped holds. Gear can be placed from the corner to protect the crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E5
23
First Corner
The stepped corners is easy enough, and pleasant too.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
24
First Corner Direct
The cracks in the face round to the right are worthwhile.
 
1 Stars
VS
25
I'm Not Addicted...
Very bold, blank and loose. Skyhooks may help protect.
 
Loose
E6
26
Beyond the Beyond
The left-hand of two diagonal cracks. The crux is at the top and the whole affair is harder for the short.
 
2 Stars
E5
27
Beyond the Azimuth
A great route up the right-hand crack. Use the crack first for your hands and then for your feet.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
28
Double Corner
The three corners! Use the right arete when it gets tough.
 S
29
Rust Never Sleeps
The bold wall. Once had 3 bolts and now has none.
 E3
30
Stingray
A good route up the central crackline. The 6b direct start is by-passed at this grade by starting from the ledge on the right
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
31
Gilded Moments
Another cleaned up ex-bolt route. Bold and sustained.
 E5
32
Just Fits
The wide crack in the third of the corners is the wrong size for most folks.
 
Graunchy
HVS
33
Shelf Life
The stepped arete has a bold upper section.
1 user comment
 E3
34
The Fermenting Telescope
The two tiered cracks round right from Just Fits.
1 user comment
 HVS
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For CARREG-Y-BARCUD

    The Great Valerio
    "Changed from E1 5a *** to HVS 5a ***, 100% of 1 vote for HVS" 06/Jun

    Sinecure
    "Perhaps the one of the most aesthetically pleasing routes ever. A soft E1, but f..." 07/Sep

    Be Clever
    "also agree- E2 (hard) 5c. Ace." 16/Apr

    The Woodentops
    "Enjoyably technical. A few small cams would have come in handy...... but still e..." 01/Apr

    Be-bop-a-lula
    "Agree with Chris - maybe we were strayed too far right, but the top was hard wit..." 04/May

    Be Brave
    "Overall it felt quite low in the grade to me but a good route" 31/Aug

    The Fermenting Telescope
    "Maybe I'd been spoilt on the slabs, but this felt like very hard sustained climb..." 05/Oct

    Shelf Life
    "F.A: J Bull, for the record!" 07/Sep

    Metamorphosis
    "This is a superb route that I have recommended to a lot of people who all topped..." 13/May

    Be-bop-a-lula
    "Good lower half, but seems to suffer a loss of identity higher up. Not much easi..." 30/Sep

    Be Clever
    "Agree totally with fiend. The middle section is run out on very sketchy and thin..." 22/Jul

    Sinecure
    "Really nice climb. Positive holds, good gear, low in the grade. Shame it's all o..." 21/May

    Sinecure
    "Don't understand these comments, the route has bomber wires all over it, and giv..." 06/May

    Be Brave
    "I forgot about the step left and so tried to finish direct - very thin and bold...." 14/Nov

    Metamorphosis
    "Surprisingly nice for a HS!" 30/Jul

    Beyond the Azimuth
    "Seconded it, should've led it. Next time Gadget." 09/May

    Ethos
    "First HVS must of put over 20 pieces of gear in, my harness was very light by th..." 29/Mar top50

    Naddyn
    "All gear can be placed ON lead." 02/May

    The Hypocrite
    "One of the best routes at the crag." 02/May

    Mean Feat
    "I seconded this, but would still advise anyone to get on it. The gear is 'reason..." 19/Apr

    Kitten Claws
    "An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below -..." 10/Apr

    Metamorphosis
    "Nice solo" 07/Apr

    Beyond the Azimuth
    "I found it great fun but it realy was suprising how sustained it was for a short..." 03/Nov

    Search for comments