Little Font

Adjacent Areas
< Badger Rock  |  Valley of the Kings >

Boulder
Sun and Shade
Uphill
10 mins
Sheltered

Little Font can be a bit disappointing at first view, but start to look around and some good problems emerge, some of which are very hard indeed. Guidebook page 32.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blaycock's Traverse
Start behind the Larch tree. Traverse the easy face then drop down across the steep face. Continue past the arete as far as...
 
2 Stars
V2 5c
2
Problem 2
The slab round to the left taken direct.
 
Bumstart
V0 5a
3
Problem 3
Steady away up the wall.
 
Bumstart
VB
4
Blow Yer Ballast
The hanging bulge/groove and finish direct from the big pinch.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V3
5
Problem 5
The arete.
 
Bumstart
V1 5c
6
Middle Earth
The wall left of the shallow cave from a side-pull up to crimps.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Crimpy
V8
7
Common Trolls
A good problem. From right of the cave trend left up sloping holds on a ramp.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Rounded
V4
8
H's 5c eliminate
Straight out of the small cave.
 V1 5c
9
Dynosore Eliminate
Start low on a small crimp and side-pull, then straight up with a rock-over to finish.
 
Bumstart
V5
10
Bass Line Venom
Good but brutal climbing up the very overhanging arete with a dynamic move en-route.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
V8
11
The Way
The arete is started on the left, then pull onto the face to finish.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V3
12
Sheep Flies
Straight up the wall.
 V0
13
Ian's Slap
Short but sweet with the slap to finish.
 
Bumstart
V4
14
Loungin'
The arete is difficult to start.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V3
15
Elven Claw
Start in the corner and move up and right into the triangular pocket, then continue left to finish up the arete.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
V3
16
Problem 16
Start up Problem 15 but go right and up the easier highball wall.
 
Bumstart
Fluttery
V3
17
The Hole
Start in the hole and move out to the arete which is climbed on good holds. V7 from sitting.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V1 5c
18
Negative Reality Inversion Top 50
An excellent problem up the right side of the arete on pinches and slopers. It eases towards the top. From sitting it is V7.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
V6
19
The Karma of Trees
Use the arete as a side-pull to gain a good finger edge, now move up via some tiny crimps rightwards and finish dynamically....
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Crimpy
V11
20
Stegasaurus
The right arete with a low crux.
 
1 Stars
V2 6a
21
Problem 21
Follow the cleaner strip through the moss up the slab.
 V0- 4c
22
Rounded Arete
SILLY ROCKS
 
2 Stars
VB
23
The Cave
Climb the right wall.
 
Bumstart
V4
24
Runs on Weasel
The short, steep, roof from the back with quartzy cracks and pockets, finishing leftwards.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V7
25
Problem 25
Start right of the prow and up to join Resident Weasel to finish.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V7
26
Resident Weasel
From the recess, move left onto the steep prow via some sharp quartzy holds under the roof at head height, then up.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V6
27
Problem 27
The prow right of the Weasel Stone is climbed on good holds but above a poor landing.
 V1 5c
28
Problem 28
A nice wall just right of the arete.
 V1 5c
29
Shell Fish
The wall through the big shell-like feature.
 V0- 4c
30
Bravery Award for Piglet
A nasty combination of poor holds and a bad landing.
 
Fluttery
V7
31
Problem 29
Undercuts and layaways up the wall.
 
Fluttery
V4
32
Little Women
Start low on a small sloper and mono side-pull, then traverse the roof leftwards and up to the top on the far side of the...
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Strong
V11
33
Gaskin's Problem
Start right at the back of the cave and come directly out, using superhuman strength, to finish up the groove. A Gaskins...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Bumstart
Strong
V14
34
Reinvented Bright New Colour
A low start on a tiny side-pull and undercut then tenuous moves lead up left through the roof via the groove.
1 user comment
 
Bumstart
V12
35
Tourniquet
Starts low right and follows the diagonal line of slopers up left to finish up the groove or on its left.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Rounded
V10
36
Reverence
Through the roof at the right side of the boulder.
 
Bumstart
V7
37
Excavated at a Later Date
Through the roof and up left.
 
Bumstart
V3
38
Problem 38
The overhanging block with the bad landing just left of the Excavated Boulder.
 
Fluttery
V3
39
Ent Hug
The steep wall cradled by the prominent horizontal branch.
 
Bumstart
V3
  • Latest Comments

    For KENTMERE

    Bottom Arete
    "Definitely the best route on the Boulder. Lots of eliminates for the start" 16/Apr top50

    Reinvented Bright New Colour
    "i love this problem the groove that leads up to the roof is especially good its..." 09/Aug

    Release the Pressure
    "This, and the further left problems, can suffer from seepage." 22/Aug

    Gaskin's Problem
    "To finish - Ive been here before with Alan long before Kentmere was whispered to..." 03/Apr

    Gwrast the Ragged
    "This problem's name is spelt wrong, it should be... "Cwrast the Ragged&quo..." 30/Mar top50

    Gaskin's Problem
    "That postscript was aimed at the guide authors and not you Si! Apologies for how..." 25/Mar

    Gaskin's Problem
    "Yeah, right" 24/Mar

    Gaskin's Problem
    "For some reason Little Women -rh- has been completley missed out of the topo. Or..." 23/Mar

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