Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
The first section of the main part of the cliff is home to several worthwhile climbs, mostly cracks of one size or another, and is always popular. Many of the routes have become polished over the years though the quality of the best of the climbs continues to shine through. Guidebook page 335.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Land Ho! 12m. Climb the tough crack on the right of the block then from the ledge finish up the bold left-hand arete of the side wall... 4 user comments | Technical Fluttery | S 4c |
2 |
The Crow's Nest 14m. Start as for Land Ho! At the top of the crack, step onto the face on the right, cross to the base of the slab and balance... 19 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | VS 4c |
3 |
Scrim Net 12m. The thin crack has a hard move or two, to reach a large hole, runners and easier climbing, or an escape. Around V2. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E1 6a |
4 |
Look-out Arete 12m. Climb the awkward groove into the base of the chimney of The Funnel. Bridge up until it is possible to swing onto the left... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | S 4a |
5 |
The Funnel 12m. The deep chimney is gained via polished holds up the wall to the right and is then climbed in traditional fashion. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | D |
6 |
Kiss Me Hardy 12m. Skip up the right-hand wall as for The Funnel then make (elegant?) progress up the awkward crack above and right using... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | S 4a |
7 |
Victory Crack 14m. Climb onto the chock then move left to reach the narrow crack that splits the buttress to the left of the gully. Good gear... 17 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
8 |
Victory Gully 12m. Climb onto the chock then continue up the gully (more of a groove really) to a tricky final couple of moves. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
9 |
Emma's Slab 14m. Climb onto the chock then stride out right and climb to and on through the capping roof. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
10 |
Technical Genius 4m. The boulder problem over the low roof just had to be done. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | V6 6c |
11 |
Emma's Dilemma 14m. Worthwhile. Start just right of a low overhang (4b?) and climb the crack and groove to a steep and well protected finish... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | S 4a |
12 |
Emma Royd 14m. The slab, bulge and artificial rib above. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
13 |
Emma's Temptation 14m. Climb the slippery slab rightwards to a ledge. Step back left and take the thin crack to the top. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HVD 4c |
14 |
Emma's Delight 14m. Start just left of the right-hand edge of the slab and climb straight up the face to gain the final short crack. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
15 |
Deluded 12m. Climb easy rock into a grassy niche then the steep and awkward crack and the short bulging wall above and left. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
16 |
Emma's Delusion 12m. From the grassy niche, take the bulging right-hand crack which is steep and awkward. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
17 |
The Prow 12m. Pull over a small overhang to a ledge then continue up a short wall to a second overhang which is well supplied with jugs. 10 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |