Adjacent Areas
< The Crow's Nest and Emma's Slab | Sail Buttress >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsWindy
An attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access, and a couple of fine buttresses further left, ensure that this particular bit of Birchen Edge is always popular. The well-polished nature of the rock on the Captain's routes will keep you on your toes. The oddity of Telescope Tunnel is included for cavers who are up here having a rest day. Guidebook page 336.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Captain's Prerogative 12m. The left edge of the slab has a hard start using a vague crack and polished holds. It eases a little above. 9 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
2 |
Captain's Bunk 12m. The right-hand side of the slab is climbed via a trio of mantelshelves, the first is the crux, though the one to reach the... 10 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
3 |
Telescope Tunnel 14m. Bizarre but strangely attractive. Climb the easy chimney then move left to the claustrophobic slot. Squirm up this, then... 11 user comments | 1 Stars | M |
4 |
Porthole Buttress 24m. A bit of an expedition, best saved for quiet days. Climb the chimney to a cave and gain the ledge on the right. Follow... 2 user comments | S 4a | |
5 |
Porthole Direct 12m. Start right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
6 |
Captain Birdseye 14m. Climb the crack in the left-hand side of the gully to a cave and bridge past this. Step left and climb the overhang on the... 4 user comments | VS 4c | |
7 |
Blind Eye 14m. A couple of tricky but well protected moves. Climb up and left into the recess then exit irreversibly right (runner up and... 2 user comments | S 4b | |
8 |
Dead Eye 10m. Pull through the roof at the notch in the overhang to reach easy ground rapidly. 2 user comments | Technical Strong | HVS 6a |
9 |
Nelson's Slab 14m. Start under the right-hand edge of the slab and make hard moves (4b for the strong) up and left via a polished niche... 17 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HS 5a |
10 |
Half Nelson 12m. A more delicate right-hand finish to the previous climb. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | VS 5a |