Nelson's Slab

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 mins

An attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access, and a couple of fine buttresses further left, ensure that this particular bit of Birchen Edge is always popular. The well-polished nature of the rock on the Captain's routes will keep you on your toes. The oddity of Telescope Tunnel is included for cavers who are up here having a rest day. Guidebook page 336.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Captain's Prerogative
12m. The left edge of the slab has a hard start using a vague crack and polished holds. It eases a little above.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
2
Captain's Bunk
12m. The right-hand side of the slab is climbed via a trio of mantelshelves, the first is the crux, though the one to reach the...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
3
Telescope Tunnel
14m. Bizarre but strangely attractive. Climb the easy chimney then move left to the claustrophobic slot. Squirm up this, then...
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
4
Porthole Buttress
24m. A bit of an expedition, best saved for quiet days. Climb the chimney to a cave and gain the ledge on the right. Follow...
2 user comments
 S 4a
5
Porthole Direct
12m. Start right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
6
Captain Birdseye
14m. Climb the crack in the left-hand side of the gully to a cave and bridge past this. Step left and climb the overhang on the...
4 user comments
 VS 4c
7
Blind Eye
14m. A couple of tricky but well protected moves. Climb up and left into the recess then exit irreversibly right (runner up and...
2 user comments
 S 4b
8
Dead Eye
10m. Pull through the roof at the notch in the overhang to reach easy ground rapidly.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
HVS 6a
9
Nelson's Slab
14m. Start under the right-hand edge of the slab and make hard moves (4b for the strong) up and left via a polished niche...
17 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 5a
10
Half Nelson
12m. A more delicate right-hand finish to the previous climb.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

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