Nelson's Slab

Adjacent Areas
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A couple of fine buttresses and an attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access ensure this particular bit of Birchen is always popular. The well-polished nature of the rock on the Captain's routes will keep you on your toes. The oddity of Telescope Tunnel is included for cavers who are up here having a rest day.
Approach (see map on page 477) - The area is 20m left of the conspicuous monument on top of the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Bunk Ladder
The short flake and the ledgy side-wall above.
 S
2
Captain's Prerogative
The left edge of the slab has a hard start using a vague crack and polished holds. It eases a little above.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS
3
Captain's Bunk
The right-hand side of the slab is climbed via a trio of mantelshelves - the first is the crux, though the one to reach the...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
4
Telescope Tunnel
Bizarre but strangely attractive. Climb the easy chimney then move left to the claustrophobic slot. Squirm up this, then into...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
M
5
Porthole Buttress
A bit of an expedition, best saved for quiet days. Climb the chimney to a cave and gain the ledge on the right. Follow this to...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
6
Porthole Direct
Start 1m right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the crucial...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
7
Captain Birdseye
Climb the crack in the left-hand side of the gully to a cave and bridge past this. Step left then climb the overhang on the...
4 user comments
 VS
8
Blind Eye
A couple of tricky but well-protected moves. Climb up and left into the recess then exit irreversibly right (runner up and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
9
Dead Eye
A lower exit pulls through the roof at the notch in the overhang to reach easy ground rapidly.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
HVS
10
Nelson's Slab Direct
Make a powerful pull through the roof.
 
1 Stars
f6A
11
Nelson's Slab
Start under the right-hand edge of the slab and make hard moves (4b for the strong) up and left via a polished niche (overhead...
17 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
12
Half Nelson
A more delicate right-hand finish to Nelson's Slab.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS
13
Left Ladder Chimney
The left-hand block-filled crevice is the better of the pair.
1 user comment
 VD
14
Right Ladder Chimney
The narrow right-hand slot is steeper, greener and harder.
1 user comment
 HVD
15
Midshipman
From a jug, climb leftwards to a thin crack then continue up the centre of the wall until under the capping overhang. A long...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
16
Cold Compass
Start from a large sloping block. Pull powerfully over the roof using a flake and pocket high on the right, then follow the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
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