Spartan Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Spartacus  |  Afternoon >

Sport
Evening sun
22 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Windy

A superb series of face climbs up the soaring white faces between the caves of Afternoon and Spartacus. The faces look blank - and some areas are - but many routes offer really unlikely looking moves on fantastic quality rock that features just enough holds.
Conditions The crag faces northwest and offers shade until early evening. It is also sheltered from the wind and rain though it can be very soapy when the humidity is high.
Approach - Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta. Continue leftwards from here to Spartan Wall - 5 minutes further on.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Harlem Nights
A short and unpleasant bouldery crux combines a powerful roof with a technical slab. Tricky third clip.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
2
The Beginning at the End
The very steep right arete of the cave has a powerful start, and a technical finish up a tufa line - old bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7b+
3
Titanrope
65m of finger-tip fun on the smooth white wall.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
8c+
4
The Path to Deliverance
Fine climbing up the wall to a narrow resting ledge where a dynamic move reaches the final holds.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
5
Spartan Wall
The route follows a white streak up an almost blank vertical wall, with a desperate crux move by the third bolt. Another...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8c
6
Leonides
Phenomenal wall climbing with a very thin crux slab near the top.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
7
The Shield
A superb sustained wall climb with a very crimpy finish.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
8
Hippolyta's Belt
Excellent wall climb on superb rock. Crux is tricky to read but easy once you know how! The upper half is much easier.
 
2 Stars
6c
9
Xerxes
The brown streak just left of Spasspartour provides great if a little squeezed climbing on pockets and the pocket pulling...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a
10
Yanap
A magnificent route with a decent rests and loads of unobvious moves on the lower wall and superb upper groove.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
11
Kurva
A good climb that has been improved by lowering the belay a bit and removing the crux!
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
12
The Egyptian Finish
The nasty little extension.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
13
Layo & Bushwacka
The short left-trending broken slab between the caves leads to ledges.
 
1 Stars
5b
14
Broken Souls
The fingery left-hand line on the wall above the ledge - not popular.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Rounded
7c
15
The Poison
Similar to Broken Souls but a harder/more sustained - not popular.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
16
Fudoshin
Sees a little action, maybe because it is low in the grade?
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
17
Tales of Greek Heroes
A long pitch with sustained climbing up a slim groove. One of the best around.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
18
The Siege of Thermoplae
The magnificent wall. Climb through the niche at half height before trending right (crux) on the technical upper wall.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6c+
19
Lucifer's Hammer
A stunning route that looks totally unlikely from below, with great moves on perfect rock and a post crux romp to the chains.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
20
Spasspartour
1) 6a+ 30m, 2) 6b, 15m. The first pitch is popular, the second one doesn't get done much.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
21
Probleme Mineur
A great wall climb, long and sustained, with several varied technical sections along the way and a delicate broccoli traverse.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
22
Spartakiada
A decent route though with some odd bolting and a hard move to clip the chains.
 
2 Stars
7a
23
Spartakiada Extension
The extension doesn't get done.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
24
Guest DJ
The wall above the last route is still a (hard) project.
 ??
25
Hibiscus Market (part 1)
A bit of loose rock and tricky last move but still worth doing.
 
2 Stars
Loose
6a
26
Hibiscus Market
The long, hard and fingery extension doesn't see much attention despite the obvious quality. Maybe it's the style!
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
27
Yo Yo
Nice enough with a tricky last move. Pretty soft at the grade.
 
2 Stars
6a
28
Poupakis
The scruffy approach pitch to access the delights above.
 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For SPARTACUS AREA

    Neolithic Line
    "single sloppy tufa - so pumpy!" 12/Dec

    Gladiator
    "Really quality route, 3* for sure for me. Varied pumpy climbing on tufas blobs a..." 08/Jun top50

    Spartacus Maximus
    "Not sure about 7a for the top bit, but agree with 7b+ for the whole thing." 26/Apr

    Claire
    "This is really hard if climbed direct at the top. A slight detour out to the lef..." 19/Oct

    Ziegen Peter
    "In the local guide book, Ziegen Peter is 18m, and the 6b Astree extension is ano..." 05/Oct

    Lucifer's Hammer
    "It's a very nice 6c wall climb. In fact quite hard 6c for Kalymnos!" 11/Sep

    Titanrope
    "it is done" 15/Jan

    Les Amazones
    "My first 6c, and I loved it to bits. Found the hard part was after the tufas and..." 20/Oct top50

    Gladiator
    "yes, very nice route; a must to try if you walk up to Spartacus sector" 18/Oct top50

    Spasspartour
    "There is now a brilliant new 32m 6b to the right of this route, 'Probleme Mineur..." 05/Jun

    Spartacus Maximus
    "maximuss is easy, max 7a.and is a very good rest around a belay. spartakus and..." 20/Jan

    Les Amazones
    "Oh yeah, this was fun, fun, fun!" 27/Nov top50

    Arena
    "The 2006 Guidebook gives Arena 7c (although not been on it). Magnetus (the 7c to..." 10/Oct

    Ziegen Peter
    "Quite stiff through the steepest part of the first pitch. The extension has jugg..." 28/Sep

    Claire
    "a strange route but quite compelling: easy and enjoyable climbing leads to a dis..." 27/Sep

    Kerveros
    "... and so it's now getting polished. Much nicer 7a s on Kaly." 03/Jun top50

    Les Amazones
    "Probably the best 6c on Kalymnos!" 15/Apr top50

    Tales of Greek Heroes
    "I did the route twice a day or so after it had been put. I thought it similar to..." 23/Dec

    Tales of Greek Heroes
    "Good long route just to the right of '13eme travail', very similar grade and sty..." 18/Nov

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