Sail Buttress

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With a steep north-facing wall and an attractive valley face, Sail Buttress is a fine lump of rock that is home to some of the best routes on the edge. A classic day out is assured if you tick all of the starred climbs here. The area is always very popular. To the right is the leaning face with Orpheus Wall, which is topped by the conspicuous monument that celebrates Nelson's victory at Trafalgar. Climbers are asked not to use it as an anchor.
Approach (see map on page 477) - The area is right under the conspicuous monument on top of the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sail Buttress
A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
2
Roger the Cabin Boy I
A bolder feeling finish to Sail Buttress up the groove and slab.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
3
Ratline
Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience. Climb...
25 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
4
Amazing Grace
The steep and reachy wall right of Ratline with a jig right at two-thirds height. Avoiding the opposite wall is tricky!
 
Technical
E2
5
Sail Chimney Top 50
An ancient classic. Climb the initial awkward and polished groove then continue directly up the chimney. Back and foot...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
6
Topsail
A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (thread) and power through...
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
7
Marie's Gone to Canada
An eliminate up the rib and roof to the right.
 
Technical
E1
8
Monument Chimney Crack
Climb into the chimney/groove from the left via a short polished ramp then climb the steep, juggy crack on the left of the main...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Monument Chimney
Start on the left and climb the slab rightwards as for Monument Chimney Crack to enter the neat open groove. Bridge up this to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
10
Pillar Wall
Climb an awkward groove directly below the main corner then the centre of the wall on the right on spaced holds. Often green.
 S
11
The Bow
The arete is gained from the left and is then followed on its right-hand side. The direct start up the steep lower arete is a...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
12
Orpheus Wall
Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good cams here protect the...
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS
13
Peaches
An excellent and arduous route that feels like it is on the wrong cliff. Climb the technical slab until the rock leans. Battle...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4
14
Monument Gully
Climb the short slab into the chimney. Continue to a roof and exit awkwardly leftwards to gain a slab and an easy finish.
 
1 Stars
VD
15
Book Sniffer
Tackle the short bulges right of the gully by strenuous undercutting. Serious, with poor protection and missing holds.
 
Technical
Strong
E6
16
Monument Gully Buttress
The arete has tough moves to stand on the beak at half-height. A huge jug on the ledge is helpful.
14 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
17
The Keel
The wall a couple of metres right of the arete has hard moves to get established in the midway break and then eases...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
18
Naughty Nauticals
Reach the flake on the lip of the overhang (small wires) then make the crux moves to gain the slab. Naughtical but neat.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2
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