Adjacent Areas
< Nelson's Slab | Orpheus Wall >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsWindy
A fine piece of rock with a steep left-hand (north-facing) wall and an attractive valley face which is home to some of the best routes on the edge. A three star day is assured if you tick all of these. Guidebook page 338.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Left Ladder Chimney 12m. The left-hand block-filled crevice is the better of the pair. 1 user comment | VD | |
2 |
Right Ladder Chimney 12m. The narrow right-hand slot is steeper, greener and harder. 1 user comment | HVD 4a | |
3 |
Midshipman 12m. From a jug, climb leftwards to a thin crack then continue up the centre of the wall until under the capping overhang. A... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | E2 6a |
4 |
Cold Compass 14m. Start from a large, sloping block. Pull powerfully over the roof using a flake and pocket high on the right, then follow... | 1 Stars Technical | E2 6b |
5 |
Sail Buttress 14m. A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
6 |
Roger the Cabin Boy 14m. A slight bolder feeling finish up the groove and slab. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
7 |
Ratline 14m. Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience.... 25 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | HVS 5b |
8 |
Amazing Grace 14m. The steep and reachy wall right of Ratline with a jig right at two-thirds height. Avoiding the opposite wall is tricky! | Reachy Technical | E2 6a |
9 |
Sail Chimney Top 50 14m. Another glossy classic. Climb the initial awkward polished groove then continue directly up the chimney. Back-and-foot... 7 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4a |
10 |
Topsail 12m. A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (big thread) and grope... 16 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
11 |
Monument Chimney Crack 14m. Climb into the chimney/groove from the left via a short polished ramp then climb the steep, juggy crack on the left of the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
12 |
Monument Chimney 14m. Start on the left and climb the slab rightwards as for Monument Chimney Crack to enter the pleasant open groove. Bridge up... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | D |