Sail Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Nelson's Slab  |  Orpheus Wall >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A fine piece of rock with a steep left-hand (north-facing) wall and an attractive valley face which is home to some of the best routes on the edge. A three star day is assured if you tick all of these.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Ladder Chimney
12m. The left-hand block-filled crevice is the better of the pair.
1 user comment
 VD
2
Right Ladder Chimney
12m. The narrow right-hand slot is steeper, greener and harder.
1 user comment
 HVD 4a
3
Midshipman
12m. From a jug, climb leftwards to a thin crack then continue up the centre of the wall until under the capping overhang. A...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
E2 6a
4
Cold Compass
14m. Start from a large, sloping block. Pull powerfully over the roof using a flake and pocket high on the right, then follow...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
5
Sail Buttress
14m. A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
6
Roger the Cabin Boy
14m. A slight bolder feeling finish up the groove and slab.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
7
Ratline
14m. Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience....
25 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
HVS 5b
8
Amazing Grace
14m. The steep and reachy wall right of Ratline with a jig right at two-thirds height. Avoiding the opposite wall is tricky!
 
Reachy
Technical
E2 6a
9
Sail Chimney Top 50
14m. Another glossy classic. Climb the initial awkward polished groove then continue directly up the chimney. Back-and-foot...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
10
Topsail
12m. A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (big thread) and grope...
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
11
Monument Chimney Crack
14m. Climb into the chimney/groove from the left via a short polished ramp then climb the steep, juggy crack on the left of the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
12
Monument Chimney
14m. Start on the left and climb the slab rightwards as for Monument Chimney Crack to enter the pleasant open groove. Bridge up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Search for comments