Orpheus Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

Orpheus Wall has a couple of arduous outings and is topped by the conspicuous monument that celebrates Nelsonís victory at Trafalgar. Climbers are asked not to use this monument as an anchor.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pillar Wall
14m. Climb an awkward groove directly below the main corner then the centre of the wall on the right direct.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
S 4a
2
The Bow
14m. The arete is gained from the left and is then followed on its right-hand side. The direct start up the steep lower arete...
2 user comments
 S 4a
3
Orpheus Wall
14m. Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good Friends here protect...
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5c
4
Peaches
14m. An excellent though arduous route that is obviously on the wrong cliff. Climb the technical slab until the rock begins to...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Rounded
E4 6b
5
Monument Gully
14m. Climb the short slab into the chimney. Continue to a roof and exit awkwardly leftwards to gain a slab and an easy finish.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Book Sniffer
6m. The short bulges right of the gully by strenuous undercutting and dramatic laybacking - serious with dubious protection.
 
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Monument Gully Buttress
8m. The arete has tough moves to get stood on the beak at half-height, a huge jug on the ledge is helpful and getting ensconced...
13 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5b
8
The Keel
8m. The wall 2m right of the arete has hard moves to get established in the midway break and then eases dramatically. Another...
5 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5b
9
Naughty Nauticals
8m. Reach the flake on the lip of the overhang (small wires) then make the crux moves to gain the slab.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

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