Powder Monkey Parade Area

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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

One of the more popular beginnerís routes around is up the clean (and slippery) slab of The Promenade. Further right, the classic of Powder Monkey Parade is worth a go though the polished start up Hollybush Gully is an unholy struggle for most. Once up this, the left-hand line of Anchor Traverse is also an option. Three tough bouldery routes climb the wall to the right and beyond these Admiral's Progress is a much easier escapade. Guidebook page 340.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Promenade
16m. A good introduction to grit though the initial slab is unprotected. Climb the left-hand edge of the slab to its crest then...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
D
2
Promenade Direct
10m. Follow the balancy centre of the slab on worn holds - unprotected - to reach easy rock above. Finish up the short arete.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVD 4a
3
The Chain
12m. Climb the right arete of the slab directly (5a) using very polished holds, or undercut in from below the roof on the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4a
4
Gritstone Megamix
10m. The roof to the right of The Chain is desperate. Small pockets in the roof allow a flake to be reached. Once above the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
V5 6C
5
Hollybush Gully
10m. The gully with a jammed boulder at 3m is a fight. The technical grade is an estimate, how else can you grade struggles?...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VD 4b
6
Anchor Traverse
12m. A pleasant alternative to the ever-popular Powder Monkey Parade. From atop the chock, head left to the arete, step around...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
7
Floating Anarchy
12m. A direct finish up the wall above the middle of the traverse using the big rounded pocket to get started.
1 user comment
 
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5a
8
Powder Monkey Parade Top 50
16m. From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle)...
24 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
S 4b
9
Oarsman
14m. The thin crack in the slab provides a technical starting move (a V4 problem). Once established on the traverse of Powder...
 
Technical
HVS 6b
10
Hornblower
12m. The wall just left of the blunt nose is a good V5 problem. Pull over the narrow overhang to reach the final slab.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6b
11
Obstructive Pensioner
12m. Use the flakes above the overhanging nose and slopers on the left as well as a cheeky gaston to reach easy ground.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V6 7A
12
Hangover
12m. Bridge the cleft then traverse the break leftwards, passing the arete with difficulty. Finish as for Oarsman, or more...
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS 5b
13
Admiral's Progress
12m. The wide V-chimney is straightforward.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
14
Polaris Exit
12m. A more interesting finish to Admiral's Progress moving left past a large block to reach a short chimney, up this to the...
 
1 Stars
D
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

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