Black Crag Boulders

Adjacent Areas
< Long Scar  |  Cold Pike >

Boulder
Lots of sun!

On reaching the area, the first boulder you see is the Potato Boulder, which sits right on top of Long Scar Scarp. The rest of the boulders are about 70m further on, right underneath the popular climbing venue of Black Crag. The North West Group has a couple of warm-ups and the right-hand South East boulders some decent traverses. In between is the Boulder Chaos. We have also stolen a couple of short routes from the crag - including one classic problem - both with good landings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Problem 1
Climb the incredibly rough face trending left.
 
Bumstart
V2 5c
2
Problem 2
Straight up the face is also good and fingery.
 
Bumstart
V2 5c
3
Problem 3
The arete from a sit-start via a lock-off on the big hold.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V2 5c
4
Potato
Start as for the previous problem then traverse low left and finish up the slab of Problem 6.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V5 6C
5
Problem 5
Up the wall and into the shallow groove.
 
1 Stars
V0+ 5a
6
Problem 6
Climb the rough slab.
 V0 4c
7
Problem 7
Step off the ground and climb the slab.
 
Bumstart
V0- 4b
8
Problem 8
Start from sitting on a low boulder and up the arete.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V0 4c
9
Problem 9
Good holds but beware a loose block.
 
Bumstart
V0+ 5a
10
Fin Rock
Use your hands then feet in the break, then move out to the bizarre fin to finish.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V1 5b
11
Big Block
Climb the wall which faces Fin Rock.
 V0- 4b
12
Problem 12
No use of the adjacent blocks is allowed.
 V1 5b
13
Sail
The central line is the best, again with no use of the blocks.
 
1 Stars
V0+ 5a
14
Problem 14
Pull onto the slab by the shallow dish - no blocks.
 V0- 4b
15
High Slab Top 50
An excellent and high slab problem.
 
2 Stars
V0- 4b
16
Coffin
Pull over the lip from a sit-start.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V2 5c
17
Left Wall
A fingery pull over lip then the slab - watch the bad landing!
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
V4 6B
18
Diamond
The face is excellent if the aretes are not used.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
19
The Prow
This problem has little technical merit and an awful landing.
 
Fluttery
V0 4c
20
Pullover
A sharp pull on crimps gains the jug, then romp the slab. The grade is very dependent on the length of your arms and thickness...
 
Bumstart
Crimpy
V3 6A
21
Prow Right
Climb the lovely crack to the ledge and reverse or climb more easily up left to escape. Don't fall off.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V0- 4b
22
Rope Up
The first 5m of the 1988 route make a superb problem when well-matted. Use the weird scoops to reach better holds then scuttle...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V4 6B
23
Lower Boulder Traverse
A traverse from left to right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
V2 5c
24
Higher Boulder Traverse
Traverse the boulder from right to left.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
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