Boulder
Lots of sun!
Windy
On reaching the area, the first boulder you see is the Potato Boulder, which sits right on top of Long Scar Scarp. The rest of the boulders are about 70m further on, right underneath the popular climbing venue of Black Crag. The North West Group has a couple of warm-ups and the right-hand South East boulders some decent traverses. In between is the Boulder Chaos. We have also stolen a couple of short routes from the crag - including one classic problem - both with good landings. Guidebook page 66.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Problem 1 Climb the incredibly rough face trending left. | Bumstart | V2 6a |
2 |
Problem 2 Straight up the face is also good and fingery. | Bumstart | V2 6a |
3 |
Problem 3 The arete from a sit-start via a lock-off on the big hold. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V2 6a |
4 |
Potato Start as for the previous problem then traverse low left and finish up the slab of Problem 6. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V5 |
5 |
Problem 5 Up the wall and into the shallow groove. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5b |
6 |
Problem 6 Climb the rough slab. | V0 5a | |
7 |
Problem 7 Step off the ground and climb the slab. | Bumstart | V0- 4c |
8 |
Problem 8 Start from sitting on a low boulder and up the arete. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V0 5a |
9 |
Problem 9 Good holds but beware a loose block. | Bumstart | V0+ 5b |
10 |
Fin Rock Use your hands then feet in the break, then move out to the bizarre fin to finish. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V1 5c |
11 |
Big Block Climb the wall which faces Fin Rock. | V0- 4c | |
12 |
Problem 12 No use of the adjacent blocks is allowed. | V1 5c | |
13 |
Sail The central line is the best, again with no use of the blocks. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5b |
14 |
Problem 14 Pull onto the slab by the shallow dish - no blocks. | V0- 4c | |
15 |
High Slab Top 50 An excellent and high slab problem. | 2 Stars | V0- 4c |
16 |
Coffin Pull over the lip from a sit-start. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V2 6a |
17 |
Left Wall A fingery pull over lip then the slab - watch the bad landing! | Crimpy Fluttery | V4 |
18 |
Diamond The face is excellent if the aretes are not used. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
19 |
The Prow This problem has little technical merit and an awful landing. | Fluttery | V0 5a |
20 |
Pullover A sharp pull on crimps gains the jug, then romp the slab. The grade is very dependent on the length of your arms and thickness... | Bumstart Crimpy | V3 |
21 |
Prow Right Climb the lovely crack to the ledge and reverse or climb more easily up left to escape. Don't fall off. | 1 Stars Fluttery | V0- 4c |
22 |
Rope Up The first 5m of the 1988 route make a superb problem when well-matted. Use the weird scoops to reach better holds then scuttle... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | V4 |
23 |
Lower Boulder Traverse A traverse from left to right. | 1 Stars Pumpy | V2 5c |
24 |
Higher Boulder Traverse Traverse the boulder from right to left. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |