**Adjacent Areas****<** None **|** None **>**

Boulder

Afternoon sun

15 mins

Downhill

Sheltered

The main concentration of problems is on the first 300 metres of cliff, running south from the inlet which marks the entrance to the bay. All of the selected problems are shown on the photos and are described from left to right. The rock carvings are a useful aid to navigation and give the names to some of the problems.

Route (click for voting and user comments) |
Symbols |
Grade | |

1 |
The AreteA bit of an eliminate but still good. Climb the arete avoiding temptation to the right and the left. | V0 4c | |

2 |
KeshoClimb the wall tenuously on sloping breaks and pockets. | 1 Stars Rounded | V4 6B |

3 |
Problem 3Start at some interesting pockets and stretch to sandy breaks. | 1 Stars Reachy | V2 5c |

4 |
Problem 4Swing up the left-hand side of the pleasant arete. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5a |

5 |
Problem 5Right of the arete via a flake. | V1 5b | |

6 |
Problem 6Attain the sloping shelf and climb intricately up the shallow groove - excellent. | 2 Stars | V2 5c |

7 |
Harrison's CrackA good crack. | V0 4c | |

8 |
Double CrackTwin groovy cracks. | VB 4a | |

9 |
Problem 9Up the arete to ledges. | VB 4a | |

10 |
The HoleA nice problem using the obvious small deep hole. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5a |

11 |
Self TimerThe stylish problem arete with a ridiculously sloping finish. | 2 Stars Rounded | V5 6C |

12 |
CornerMost useful as a descent route. | VB 4a | |

13 |
Problem 13Climb up into the short hanging corner and finish on a sandy ledge. | V0+ 5a | |

14 |
KeyholeGain the keyhole and finish slightly rightwards on slopers. It is also possible to move left from the keyhole to a lay-away.... | 2 Stars Rounded | V3 6A |

15 |
Problem 15It's possible to climb the overhang at a number of points, with the finishing moves always being the problem. | V3 6A | |

16 |
Problem 16Climb the blunt arete using decent pockets on the right wall to the usual nose-grinding finish. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |

17 |
Dial M for MermaidA quick pull on the big M leads to the often wet ledge and a struggle. | V1 5b | |

18 |
Cave Left-handPull slopers up rightwards to the prominent block finish up a crack. | 2 Stars Rounded | V4 6B |

19 |
Cave Right-handA long move, or jump, to a flange then on to the block on the left. A crafty knee-bar and long reaches lead to a finishing... | 3 Stars Reachy | V4 6B |

20 |
CrackThin fingers, a slap and then grind over to the finishing break. | 1 Stars | V3 6A |

21 |
Problem 22An elegant problem with a crucial high step left. The breaks are good if you hit the right point. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |

22 |
Betina ButtsBetina was good enough to carve her name just to the right of this problem - which is enjoyed on good holds. | 1 Stars | V0 4c |

23 |
Problem 24The hanging arete can vary between V1 and V6 according to the level of the beach, but is always worthwhile. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |

24 |
The BreakTraverse the lower break either way. Sadly it is often wet. | Pumpy | V2 5c |

25 |
The FlakeClimb the nice right-slanting flake to the upper break. | 1 Stars | V1 5b |

26 |
Split FinClimb the crack splitting the fin. A good problem which is harder than it looks. | 1 Stars | V1 5b |

27 |
Problem 28The rounded groove. | V0 4c | |

28 |
Problem 29A super arete problem. Jump up to slopers, swing left and power for the top. | 2 Stars Reachy Rounded | V4 6B |

29 |
Problem 30Climb the groove on very sharp pockets, possibly worth V4 just for the pain factor. | 1 Stars | V3 6A |

30 |
Problem 32Another awkward groove. | V1 5b | |

31 |
Problem 33Traverse the very sloping lip from left to right. | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | V5 6C |

32 |
The RunnelAn attractive line. Pull up to the ledge and rock over using the side of the runnel. | 3 Stars | V2 5c |

33 |
Problem 36Up the right side of the arete without recourse to the groove. | V2 5c | |

34 |
Ian and HelenClimb over Helen first, then Ian - and follow a small hanging flake to the top. | 1 Stars | V1 5b |

35 |
Problem 38Straight up the wall to finish on sloping pockets. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | V3 6A |

36 |
Problem 39Good pockets to start then left of the tiny groove to finish on slightly friable pockets. | 1 Stars Fluttery | V3 6A |

37 |
Problem 40Via pockets to a side-pull and rock over right to the top. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |

38 |
Problem 41Follow pockets to a sloping finish. | V1 5b | |

39 |
Scoop LeftA classic arete problem on slopers to pockets. Saucy Puppet Show - The sit-down start is V9. | 2 Stars Rounded | V4 6B |

40 |
Scoop RightA fun dyno using a small pocket for your left hand. | 2 Stars Reachy | V4 6B |

41 |
Problem 45Climb the crack. | 1 Stars | V1 5b |

42 |
Problem 46Traverse the lip right to left and finish at the top of Scoop Right. It is tricky crossing the small midway groove. | 1 Stars Pumpy | V2 5c |