Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Afternoon sun
Downhill
15 minsThe main concentration of problems is on the first 300 metres of cliff, running south from the inlet which marks the entrance to the bay. All of the selected problems are shown on the photos and are described from left to right. The rock carvings are a useful aid to navigation and give the names to some of the problems. Guidebook page 160.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Arete A bit of an eliminate but still good. Climb the arete avoiding temptation to the right and the left. | V0 5a | |
2 |
Kesho Climb the wall tenuously on sloping breaks and pockets. | 1 Stars Rounded | V4 |
3 |
Problem 3 Start at some interesting pockets and stretch to sandy breaks. | 1 Stars Reachy | V2 6a |
4 |
Problem 4 Swing up the left-hand side of the pleasant arete. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5b |
5 |
Problem 5 Right of the arete via a flake. | V1 5c | |
6 |
Problem 6 Attain the sloping shelf and climb intricately up the shallow groove - excellent. | 2 Stars | V2 6a |
7 |
Harrison's Crack A good crack. | V0 5a | |
8 |
Double Crack Twin groovy cracks. | VB | |
9 |
Problem 9 Up the arete to ledges. | VB | |
10 |
The Hole A nice problem using the obvious small deep hole. | 1 Stars | V0+ 5b |
11 |
Self Timer The stylish problem arete with a ridiculously sloping finish. | 2 Stars Rounded | V5 |
12 |
Corner Most useful as a descent route. | VB | |
13 |
Problem 13 Climb up into the short hanging corner and finish on a sandy ledge. | V0+ 5b | |
14 |
Keyhole Gain the keyhole and finish slightly rightwards on slopers. It is also possible to move left from the keyhole to a lay-away.... | 2 Stars Rounded | V3 |
15 |
Problem 15 It's possible to climb the overhang at a number of points, with the finishing moves always being the problem. | V3 | |
16 |
Problem 16 Climb the blunt arete using decent pockets on the right wall to the usual nose-grinding finish. | 1 Stars | V2 6a |
17 |
Dial M for Mermaid A quick pull on the big M leads to the often wet ledge and a struggle. | V1 5c | |
18 |
Cave Left-hand Pull slopers up rightwards to the prominent block finish up a crack. | 2 Stars Rounded | V4 |
19 |
Cave Right-hand A long move, or jump, to a flange then on to the block on the left. A crafty knee-bar and long reaches lead to a finishing... | 3 Stars Reachy | V4 |
20 |
Crack Thin fingers, a slap and then grind over to the finishing break. | 1 Stars | V3 |
21 |
Problem 22 An elegant problem with a crucial high step left. The breaks are good if you hit the right point. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |
22 |
Betina Butts Betina was good enough to carve her name just to the right of this problem - which is enjoyed on good holds. | 1 Stars | V0 5a |
23 |
Problem 24 The hanging arete can vary between V1 and V6 according to the level of the beach, but is always worthwhile. | 1 Stars | V2 6a |
24 |
The Break Traverse the lower break either way. Sadly it is often wet. | Pumpy | V2 5c |
25 |
The Flake Climb the nice right-slanting flake to the upper break. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
26 |
Split Fin Climb the crack splitting the fin. A good problem which is harder than it looks. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
27 |
Problem 28 The rounded groove. | V0 5a | |
28 |
Problem 29 A super arete problem. Jump up to slopers, swing left and power for the top. | 2 Stars Reachy Rounded | V4 |
29 |
Problem 30 Climb the groove on very sharp pockets, possibly worth V4 just for the pain factor. | 1 Stars | V3 |
30 |
Problem 32 Another awkward groove. | V1 5c | |
31 |
Problem 33 Traverse the very sloping lip from left to right. | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | V5 |
32 |
The Runnel Top 50 An attractive line. Pull up to the ledge and rock over using the side of the runnel. | 3 Stars | V2 6a |
33 |
Problem 36 Up the right side of the arete without recourse to the groove. | V2 6a | |
34 |
Ian and Helen Climb over Helen first, then Ian - and follow a small hanging flake to the top. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
35 |
Problem 38 Straight up the wall to finish on sloping pockets. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | V3 |
36 |
Problem 39 Good pockets to start then left of the tiny groove to finish on slightly friable pockets. | 1 Stars Fluttery | V3 |
37 |
Problem 40 Via pockets to a side-pull and rock over right to the top. | 1 Stars | V2 6a |
38 |
Problem 41 Follow pockets to a sloping finish. | V1 5c | |
39 |
Scoop Left A classic arete problem on slopers to pockets. Saucy Puppet Show - The sit-down start is V9. | 2 Stars Rounded | V4 |
40 |
Scoop Right A fun dyno using a small pocket for your left hand. | 2 Stars Reachy | V4 |
41 |
Problem 45 Climb the crack. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
42 |
Problem 46 Traverse the lip right to left and finish at the top of Scoop Right. It is tricky crossing the small midway groove. | 1 Stars Pumpy | V2 5c |