Fleswick Bouldering Wall

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Boulder
Afternoon sun
Downhill
15 mins
Sheltered

The main concentration of problems is on the first 300 metres of cliff, running south from the inlet which marks the entrance to the bay. All of the selected problems are shown on the photos and are described from left to right. The rock carvings are a useful aid to navigation and give the names to some of the problems. Guidebook page 160.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Arete
A bit of an eliminate but still good. Climb the arete avoiding temptation to the right and the left.
 V0 5a
2
Kesho
Climb the wall tenuously on sloping breaks and pockets.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V4
3
Problem 3
Start at some interesting pockets and stretch to sandy breaks.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
V2 6a
4
Problem 4
Swing up the left-hand side of the pleasant arete.
 
1 Stars
V0+ 5b
5
Problem 5
Right of the arete via a flake.
 V1 5c
6
Problem 6 Top 50
Attain the sloping shelf and climb intricately up the shallow groove - excellent.
 
2 Stars
V2 6a
7
Harrison's Crack
A good crack.
 V0 5a
8
Double Crack
Twin groovy cracks.
 VB
9
Problem 9
Up the arete to ledges.
 VB
10
The Hole
A nice problem using the obvious small deep hole.
 
1 Stars
V0+ 5b
11
Self Timer
The stylish problem arete with a ridiculously sloping finish.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V5
12
Corner
Most useful as a descent route.
 VB
13
Problem 13
Climb up into the short hanging corner and finish on a sandy ledge.
 V0+ 5b
14
Keyhole
Gain the keyhole and finish slightly rightwards on slopers. It is also possible to move left from the keyhole to a lay-away....
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V3
15
Problem 15
It's possible to climb the overhang at a number of points, with the finishing moves always being the problem.
 V3
16
Problem 16
Climb the blunt arete using decent pockets on the right wall to the usual nose-grinding finish.
 
1 Stars
V2 6a
17
Dial M for Mermaid
A quick pull on the big M leads to the often wet ledge and a struggle.
 V1 5c
18
Cave Left-hand
Pull slopers up rightwards to the prominent block finish up a crack.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V4
19
Cave Right-hand
A long move, or jump, to a flange then on to the block on the left. A crafty knee-bar and long reaches lead to a finishing...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
V4
20
Crack
Thin fingers, a slap and then grind over to the finishing break.
 
1 Stars
V3
21
Problem 22
An elegant problem with a crucial high step left. The breaks are good if you hit the right point.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
22
Betina Butts
Betina was good enough to carve her name just to the right of this problem - which is enjoyed on good holds.
 
1 Stars
V0 5a
23
Problem 24
The hanging arete can vary between V1 and V6 according to the level of the beach, but is always worthwhile.
 
1 Stars
V2 6a
24
The Break
Traverse the lower break either way. Sadly it is often wet.
 
Pumpy
V2 5c
25
The Flake
Climb the nice right-slanting flake to the upper break.
 
1 Stars
V1 5c
26
Split Fin
Climb the crack splitting the fin. A good problem which is harder than it looks.
 
1 Stars
V1 5c
27
Problem 28
The rounded groove.
 V0 5a
28
Problem 29
A super arete problem. Jump up to slopers, swing left and power for the top.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
V4
29
Problem 30
Climb the groove on very sharp pockets, possibly worth V4 just for the pain factor.
 
1 Stars
V3
30
Problem 32
Another awkward groove.
 V1 5c
31
Problem 33
Traverse the very sloping lip from left to right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
V5
32
The Runnel Top 50
An attractive line. Pull up to the ledge and rock over using the side of the runnel.
 
3 Stars
V2 6a
33
Problem 36
Up the right side of the arete without recourse to the groove.
 V2 6a
34
Ian and Helen
Climb over Helen first, then Ian - and follow a small hanging flake to the top.
 
1 Stars
V1 5c
35
Problem 38
Straight up the wall to finish on sloping pockets.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
V3
36
Problem 39
Good pockets to start then left of the tiny groove to finish on slightly friable pockets.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V3
37
Problem 40
Via pockets to a side-pull and rock over right to the top.
 
1 Stars
V2 6a
38
Problem 41
Follow pockets to a sloping finish.
 V1 5c
39
Scoop Left
A classic arete problem on slopers to pockets. Saucy Puppet Show - The sit-down start is V9.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V4
40
Scoop Right
A fun dyno using a small pocket for your left hand.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
V4
41
Problem 45
Climb the crack.
 
1 Stars
V1 5c
42
Problem 46
Traverse the lip right to left and finish at the top of Scoop Right. It is tricky crossing the small midway groove.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
V2 5c