Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Lots of sun!
Uphill
25 minsWindy
The boulders extend up the hillside in a narrow strip following a spur, bounded on the left by a gully. The Sheep Pen Boulder is the first reached and though impressive are somewhat spoiled by the stink of sheep droppings. Further up, the boulders are all good, with Boulder 4 probably the best having some fine hard problems. Though the hillside is steep, the landings are generally flat and good, with a couple of notable exceptions. Guidebook page 170.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Problem 1 Climb the arete. | V0 5a | |
2 |
Shelf Life Directly up the centre of the wall over some overlaps. | Bumstart | V1 5c |
3 |
Billboard of Opportunity Start back left in the cave and traverse right then through the roof to the slab which is followed rightwards to the top. | Bumstart | V7 |
4 |
Deep Down & Dirty Climb from the back of the roof, up the crack and finish up Billboard. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V5 |
5 |
The Prow The prow direct onto the slab is steep and powerful. | 2 Stars Bumstart Strong | V7 |
6 |
Smells Like Teen Spirit The ramp is climbed to the overlap then finished out left. A pongy V5 from sitting. | 1 Stars | V4 |
7 |
Smells Like Toot Grable Move left a few feet up Smells Like Teen Spirit and cross the smooth wall to finish up the slab. | 1 Stars | V3 |
8 |
Respect to the Jug Start up a crack behind the boulder, swing left with difficulty to a good hold, then left again to the jug and the ledge/ramp... | Fluttery | V4 |
9 |
Dirty Groove | V1 5c | |
10 |
Pixies Stole My Bangle Move slightly right then straight up the wall. V4 from sitting. | 1 Stars | V3 |
11 |
Right Arete A good clean line. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V3 |
12 |
Rag Bollock Roof Up and over from right in the back. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V4 |
13 |
Riding an Ethnic Sheep Sit down at the right end of the boulder and traverse the lip - sustained and excellent. | 2 Stars | V3 |
14 |
Problem 14 | Crimpy | V0+ 5b |
15 |
Problem 15 Climbed on positive holds. | V1 5c | |
16 |
Problem 16 Head up the shallow groove. | V0+ 5b | |
17 |
Problem 17 Up the groove, pull left then straight up. Photo on page 169. | V1 5c | |
18 |
Problem 18 The wall trending right to a scary finish. | 1 Stars Fluttery | V2 6a |
19 |
Problem 19 Start on the overhanging face of the prow, up to a flat hold, then left to a terrifying finish. Brave spotters... | 1 Stars Bumstart Reachy Fluttery | V5 |
20 |
Problem 20 Climb the arete, with a poor landing. | V0 5a | |
21 |
Ten Mighty Wee Guns The crimpy wall is harder than it looks and is tackled more or less directly. | 2 Stars Technical | V7 |
22 |
Problem 22 Climb the shallow ramp trending rightwards. | Bumstart | V0+ 5b |
23 |
Tom's Groove Up the wall into the niche and then up. | V0+ 5b | |
24 |
Chinese Whispers Climb up and right to the diagonal crack and jam rightwards to the top - very good. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V4 |
25 |
No Sheffield Walk-in The overhanging wall and prow direct. | 2 Stars Bumstart | V8 |
26 |
Confabulator A confabulous line up the centre of the overhanging wall is one of the best in the area. Takes some drainage and may need a... | 2 Stars Bumstart Technical Strong | V8 |
27 |
Beginners Bass Line A hard start up the overhanging arete, then traverse the lip to the left. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V3 |
28 |
Ruff Licks Start as for the last problem but go right instead. | Bumstart | V3 |
29 |
The Slab | Bumstart | V0- 4c |
30 |
Problem 30 Climb the prow then lip traverse left. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V3 |
31 |
Pit Boss The very steep wall with great potential for cracking your head on the dry-stone wall behind you. | 1 Stars Bumstart | V7 |