Tar's Wall and Barbette Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

A series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent flying prow resting on a large block. This is another good area for beginners that fancy getting on with climbing without too many eyes on them!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Broadside
10m. Using the arete, make long reach right for a hidden pocket and a tricky layback move to reach the slanting shallow groove.
4 user comments
 
Reachy
E2 6a
2
The Brigand
10m. The desperate right-hand side of the face starting from a block and using a poor pocket and bottomless crack.
 
Technical
Strong
V11 8A
3
Cave Gully
10m. The groove above the cave-recess is climbed by some stretchy bridging moves. Green and awkward to protect.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Ta Very Much
10m. Climb the right wall of the gully by a good couple of moves using a pocket and small flake. Keep left for the best effect.
4 user comments
 HS 4c
5
Tar's Arete
10m. Approach the arete steeply from the left using well-glossed holds then follow it in a pleasant situation.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
D 4a
6
Ta Ta For Now
8m. Start at a pointed spike below the bulges, pull through the overhang (4c for the strong-of-arm) and climb the slab above.
7 user comments
 
Strong
HS 5a
7
Tar's Crack
8m. The steep crack is awkward to enter, bridging works best.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Tar's Wall
8m. A problem start gains the easier slab above.
4 user comments
 HVD 4b
9
Tar's Traverse
10m. A mild rising traverse across the hanging Tar's Slab, from the gully on the far right, to a finish on the arete to the...
1 user comment
 D
10
Tar's Climb
8m. The right-hand arete of the wall on slopers.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
M
11
Tar's Gully
10m. Easily up the gully then the crack, escape right at the top.
1 user comment
 D
12
Pig Head
10m. The right-hand arete of the gully is a bit of a grunt to start.
2 user comments
 
Technical
S 4c
13
Pigtail
8m. Climb a leaning groove to easy ground.
2 user comments
 S 4a
14
Wavedance
6m. Start at an small jug and climb the wall direct using slopers to an overgrown exit. Nicely technical.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
HS 5b
15
Prow Wall
8m. Climb the blunt arete to the left of the gully to a steeper crack at the top.
1 user comment
 M
16
Barbette Crack
6m. Climb the thin crack to its end then swing left and continue boldly to a reachy and shelving exit. A loose flake has to be...
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4b
17
Barbette Wall
6m. The left-hand wall of the jutting prow is climbed on an unusual set of pockets.
1 user comment
 S 4a
18
Barbette Buttress
6m. Start from the supporting block and climb the front face of the prow via the thin crack and some holds on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
19
Cannonball Crack
8m. The V-shaped groove right of the prow is wedged and wriggled, awkward to protect without big-guns.
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
S 3c
20
Cannonball Wall
10m. Mantelshelf onto a block, step left and climb the pocketed face. A direct start is 5a, if you can reach the first of the...
4 user comments
 VD
21
Gunner's Gangway
10m. Start on the right to reach the ledge at the start of the previous climb and continue up the widening crack.
1 user comment
 D
22
Lieutenant's Ladder
10m. The blocky ridge has a tricky bulge.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

    Victory Crack
    "Fist jams and gear galore but awkward nonetheless!" 09/Apr

    Stoker's Wall
    "The top out requires neat and confident footwork if you are short (and can't rea..." 28/Mar

    Barnacle Bulge
    "Is there a missing foothold on this route? I've watched 7 or 8 people try this o..." 21/Mar

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