Tar's Wall and Barbette Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

A series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent flying prow resting on a large block. This is another good area for beginners that fancy getting on with climbing without too many eyes on them! Guidebook page 344.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Broadside
10m. Using the arete, make long reach right for a hidden pocket and a tricky layback move to reach the slanting shallow groove.
4 user comments
 
Reachy
E2 6a
2
The Brigand
10m. The desperate right-hand side of the face starting from a block and using a poor pocket and bottomless crack.
 
Technical
Strong
V11 8A
3
Cave Gully
10m. The groove above the cave-recess is climbed by some stretchy bridging moves. Green and awkward to protect.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Ta Very Much
10m. Climb the right wall of the gully by a good couple of moves using a pocket and small flake. Keep left for the best effect.
4 user comments
 HS 4c
5
Tar's Arete
10m. Approach the arete steeply from the left using well-glossed holds then follow it in a pleasant situation.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
D 4a
6
Ta Ta For Now
8m. Start at a pointed spike below the bulges, pull through the overhang (4c for the strong-of-arm) and climb the slab above.
7 user comments
 
Strong
HS 5a
7
Tar's Crack
8m. The steep crack is awkward to enter, bridging works best.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Tar's Wall
8m. A problem start gains the easier slab above.
4 user comments
 HVD 4b
9
Tar's Traverse
10m. A mild rising traverse across the hanging Tar's Slab, from the gully on the far right, to a finish on the arete to the...
1 user comment
 D
10
Tar's Climb
8m. The right-hand arete of the wall on slopers.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
M
11
Tar's Gully
10m. Easily up the gully then the crack, escape right at the top.
1 user comment
 D
12
Pig Head
10m. The right-hand arete of the gully is a bit of a grunt to start.
2 user comments
 
Technical
S 4c
13
Pigtail
8m. Climb a leaning groove to easy ground.
2 user comments
 S 4a
14
Wavedance
6m. Start at an small jug and climb the wall direct using slopers to an overgrown exit. Nicely technical.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
HS 5b
15
Prow Wall
8m. Climb the blunt arete to the left of the gully to a steeper crack at the top.
1 user comment
 M
16
Barbette Crack
6m. Climb the thin crack to its end then swing left and continue boldly to a reachy and shelving exit. A loose flake has to be...
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4b
17
Barbette Wall
6m. The left-hand wall of the jutting prow is climbed on an unusual set of pockets.
1 user comment
 S 4a
18
Barbette Buttress
6m. Start from the supporting block and climb the front face of the prow via the thin crack and some holds on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
19
Cannonball Crack
8m. The V-shaped groove right of the prow is wedged and wriggled, awkward to protect without big-guns.
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
S 3c
20
Cannonball Wall
10m. Mantelshelf onto a block, step left and climb the pocketed face. A direct start is 5a, if you can reach the first of the...
4 user comments
 VD
21
Gunner's Gangway
10m. Start on the right to reach the ledge at the start of the previous climb and continue up the widening crack.
1 user comment
 D
22
Lieutenant's Ladder
10m. The blocky ridge has a tricky bulge.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

    Victory Crack
    "Fist jams and gear galore but awkward nonetheless!" 09/Apr

    Stoker's Wall
    "The top out requires neat and confident footwork if you are short (and can't rea..." 28/Mar

    Barnacle Bulge
    "Is there a missing foothold on this route? I've watched 7 or 8 people try this o..." 21/Mar

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