Tar's Wall to Barbette Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Copenhagen Wall  |  Seasick Slab >

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To the right of the Fo'c'sle area is series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent flying prow resting on a large block. This is another good area for beginners that fancy getting on with climbing without too many eyes on them, as it is invariably quieter than the areas to the left.
Approach (see map on page 477) - The area is a couple of minutes right of the point where the approach path arrives at the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Broadside
Using the arete make a long reach right for a hidden pocket and a tricky layback move reaches the slanting shallow groove.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A+
2
The Brigand
The desperate right-hand side of the face.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
f7C+
3
The Buccaneer
Gain the sloping pocket from the edge out right.
 
1 Stars
f7A
4
Cave Gully
The groove above the cave recess is climbed by some stretchy bridging moves. Green and awkward to protect.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
5
Ta Very Much
Climb the right wall of the gully by a few decent moves using a pocket and small flake. Keep left for the best effect.
4 user comments
 HS
6
Tar's Arete
Approach the arete steeply from the left (or direct - harder) using well-glossed holds then follow it with pleasant situations.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
7
Ta Ta For Now
Start at a pointed spike below the bulges, pull through the overhang (4c for the strong-of-arm?) and climb the slab above.
7 user comments
 
Strong
HS
8
Tar's Crack
The steep crack is awkward to enter, bridging works best.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Tar's Wall
A problem start gains the easier slab above.
4 user comments
 HVD
10
Sodomy
Traverse the lip left, finishing without using the crack/arete.
 
2 Stars
f6C
11
Tar's Traverse
A mild rising traverse across the hanging Tar's Slab, from the gully on the far right, to a finish on the arete to the left.
2 user comments
 D
12
Tar's Climb
The right-hand arete of the wall on slopers.
1 user comment
 M
13
Tar's Gully
Easily up the gully then the crack, escape right at the top.
2 user comments
 D
14
Pig Head
The right-hand arete of the gully is a bit of a grunt to start.
2 user comments
 
Technical
S
15
Pigtail
Climb a left-slanting groove to easy ground.
2 user comments
 S
16
Wavedance
Start at a small jug and climb the wall direct using slopers to an overgrown exit. Nicely technical. UK tech grade of 5a.
4 user comments
 
Technical
f4+
17
Prow Wall
Climb the blunt arete to the left of the gully to a steeper crack.
1 user comment
 M
18
Prow Gully
Vegetated peregrinations up the groove in the angle.
 M
19
Barbette Arete
The short left edge of the jutting prow.
 S
20
Barbette Crack
Climb the thin crack to its end, then swing left and continue boldly to a reachy and shelving exit. A loose flake has to be...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
21
Barbette Wall
The left-hand wall of the jutting prow is climbed on an unusual set of pockets.
1 user comment
 S
22
Barbette Buttress
Start from the supporting block and climb the front face of the prow via the thin crack and some holds on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
23
Cannonball Crack
The V-shaped groove right of the prow is wedged and wriggled. Awkward to protect without 'big guns'.
3 user comments
 S
24
Cannonball Wall
Mantelshelf onto a block, step left and climb the pocketed face. A direct start is 5a, if you can reach the first of the holds.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
25
Gunner's Gangway
Start on the right to reach the ledge at the start of the previous climb and continue up the widening crack.
2 user comments
 D
26
Lieutenant's Ladder
The blocky ridge has a tricky little bulge.
1 user comment
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    Implosion
    "Shame. One of my few (very insignificant) claims to fame. Never mind. A.Russell..." 15/Apr

    Tar's Gully
    "Changed from D to D, 0% of 1 vote for D" 23/Mar

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

    Victory Crack
    "Fist jams and gear galore but awkward nonetheless!" 09/Apr

    Stoker's Wall
    "The top out requires neat and confident footwork if you are short (and can't rea..." 28/Mar

    Barnacle Bulge
    "Is there a missing foothold on this route? I've watched 7 or 8 people try this o..." 21/Mar

    Orpheus Wall
    "Do-able without much strength if you use a bit of imagination. Fun working out t..." 27/Jul

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