Humphrey Head Bouldering

Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Level
Sheltered

This area is situated on the west side of the promontory of Humphrey Head close to its tip. Its is accessible during all but the highest tide conditions although a little imaginative traversing might be required. The bouldering is set on a slanting wave-cut platform which can feel strangely remote when the tide is out, on a sunny spring afternoon. Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Traverse
Start at the painted number Ô006Õ. Traverse easy corners into the main corner. Layback out and up, then across easier ground....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
V2 5c
2
The Corner Crack
 VB 4a
3
The Layback Corner
Layback the crack.
 V0 4c
4
The Diagonal Crack
Start from undercuts and layback up right.
 V0+ 5a
5
The Low Traverse
Start from the main corner. Pull across using the diagonal crack but stay very low on evil crimps until the main traverse is...
 
Crimpy
V4 6B
6
Roof Corner
From a sit-down start, swing up left into the corner and climb it to the roof.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V2 5c
7
Pocket Problem
Make a long reach to the pocket and lunge up to grassy ledges.
 
1 Stars
V3 6A
8
Trad Crack
Reminiscent of 1970s Stoney. From a sit-down start under the roof, climb the crack.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Strong
V2 5c
9
Crinkle Wall
Use a poor hold to gain more thin holds. Not for thin fingers. There is the potential for a desperate sit-down start.
 
Crimpy
V3 6A
10
End Wall
A short problem on nice crozzly holds.
 
Crimpy
V0 4c