Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
5 minsA contrasting set of routes from modern desperates, through to some old bald slabs and a fair collection of chimney cracks in the traditional idiom. Few of the routes see much in the way of ascents although Gaia is often gazed at in wonder. Guidebook page 372.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Twin Cracks 8m. The twin cracks in the groove, reached via a steep corner. | VD | |
2 |
Finale Slab Left-hand 16m. Climb a flake to the base of a slab then follow the polished (and chipped) pockets up its centre until holds lead up and... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
3 |
Finale Slab Right-hand 16m. From the upper slab stride boldly out right - exposed - and climb the pockets to the top. Not too hard, but fluttery! 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
4 |
Cybertron Mission 10m. The bald, blunt, bold arete from the big flake - scary! | Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
5 |
Lawyer's Chimney 8m. The left chimney, finish rightwards by floundering onto the slab or direct, HS 4b. The next route provides a continuation. | Technical | HVD |
6 |
Chancery Slab 8m. The polished flutes and pockets up the short face above the col between the west and north faces. | Rounded | VS 4c |
7 |
Our Kid 10m. Bridge the gap then bail right to access the hanging-slab. Climb this rightwards, then centrally and with no gear! | Rounded Fluttery | E4 5c |
8 |
Slanted and Enchanted 12m. From runners on the 'jammed stone', bridge out and swing left to gain pockets, the arete and a sketchy finish. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
9 |
Jammed Stone Chimney 10m. The chimney with eponymous block is pretty much the expected battle, at half-height and again at the top. 1 user comment | VS 5a | |
10 |
Curved Crack 6m. The awkward, kinked and polished crack has a tricky exit. | Technical | HS 4b |
11 |
Kra S'Hoan 8m. The crack below the huge block of Gaia is a route to nowhere. The reverse journey is Noah's Ark at the same grade. 2 user comments | VS 4b | |
12 |
Gaia 20m. The stunning hanging groove; brilliant climbing, but restricted to the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Rounded Fluttery | E8 6c |
13 |
Harder Faster 18m. Gaia's direct finish is harder than its parent and from this one you will definitely hit the ground, have no doubts. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E9 7a |