Finale Slab and Gaia

Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
5 mins
Sheltered

A contrasting set of routes from modern desperates, through to some old bald slabs and a fair collection of chimney cracks in the traditional idiom. Few of the routes see much in the way of ascents although Gaia is often gazed at in wonder. Guidebook page 372.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Twin Cracks
8m. The twin cracks in the groove, reached via a steep corner.
 VD
2
Finale Slab Left-hand
16m. Climb a flake to the base of a slab then follow the polished (and chipped) pockets up its centre until holds lead up and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
3
Finale Slab Right-hand
16m. From the upper slab stride boldly out right - exposed - and climb the pockets to the top. Not too hard, but fluttery!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
4
Cybertron Mission
10m. The bald, blunt, bold arete from the big flake - scary!
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
5
Lawyer's Chimney
8m. The left chimney, finish rightwards by floundering onto the slab or direct, HS 4b. The next route provides a continuation.
 
Technical
HVD
6
Chancery Slab
8m. The polished flutes and pockets up the short face above the col between the west and north faces.
 
Rounded
VS 4c
7
Our Kid
10m. Bridge the gap then bail right to access the hanging-slab. Climb this rightwards, then centrally and with no gear!
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
8
Slanted and Enchanted
12m. From runners on the 'jammed stone', bridge out and swing left to gain pockets, the arete and a sketchy finish.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
Jammed Stone Chimney
10m. The chimney with eponymous block is pretty much the expected battle, at half-height and again at the top.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
10
Curved Crack
6m. The awkward, kinked and polished crack has a tricky exit.
 
Technical
HS 4b
11
Kra S'Hoan
8m. The crack below the huge block of Gaia is a route to nowhere. The reverse journey is Noah's Ark at the same grade.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
12
Gaia
20m. The stunning hanging groove; brilliant climbing, but restricted to the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E8 6c
13
Harder Faster
18m. Gaia's direct finish is harder than its parent and from this one you will definitely hit the ground, have no doubts.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E9 7a
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