Roadside Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
5 mins
Level
Windy

A series of short faces across a broken hillside. Although not great individually, together they make a worthwhile objective for half a day. The routes mostly follow cracks and are in the lower grades. Like the rest of the edge, the area could do with traffic to help keep it cleaner.
Approach (see map on page 440) - From the Curbar Gap parking cross the road and follow the track. The right-hand branch leads to a view-point above Bacchus Buttress and a scrambly descent.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Corner Route
8m. A choice of broken starts lead to a steeper finish.
 
Reachy
VD 4a
2
Curbar Cracks
8m. Awkward moves up the central crack lead to the easier upper corner.
 D
3
Cracked Wall
8m. Amble to a good finish up the thin crack in the final block.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
HS 4a
4
Rum and Pep
10m. The left-hand chimney leads easily to a ledge then a tricky finish up the steep groove on the right.
2 user comments
 HVD 4a
5
Mauvais Pas
10m. Climb the central chimney then make the exposed 'mauvais pas' out right to a steep finish up the side wall.
2 user comments
 HVD 4a
6
Bitter
8m. The short leaning crack is awkward.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS 4b
7
Shandy
8m. The arete leads to a tricky wall and a finish up the groove.
 VD
8
Left-hand Flake-crack
6m. Good holds and good protection up the left-hand crack.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
9
Central Crack
8m. The central fissure usually requires a bit of a tussle.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
10
Flake-crack
6m. Short-lived but on good flaky holds on the right.
 D
11
Alison
18m. From low on the left, a series of steps leads to a tricky move onto and off the final ledge.
 S 4b
12
Death to Khomeini
8m. Nice moves right of the corner lead to a crusty flake, and a stretch to good small holds above. A few more interesting...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4b
13
Niched Wall
8m. Nice moves up the crack and the overlap.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BASLOW

    Pensionerís Bulge
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Fingers Crack
    "For me the direct finish felt closer to 5b than the 5a it gets in the definitive..." 17/Jan

    Hot Ziggerty
    "good highball font 6c" 25/Aug

    Grounded Bees
    "Should also be a boulder grade at V0 (5a)" 20/Mar

    Gully Wall
    "Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

    Social Climber
    "Couldn't work this out at this grade. Very thin move above gear to reach the poc..." 14/Apr

    Broken Buttress
    "I agree, the step up onto the block is harder than the slab, still only Diff tho..." 18/Mar

    Death to Khomeini
    "Probably HS 4b if you trust the thread in the creaky flake! In which case a sid..." 06/Oct

    Broken Buttress
    "The 1965 Froggatt guide has this route, and suggests that the majority of its Ba..." 22/Jun

    Wasted Youth
    "Apparently I got the wrong Hannon - right name, grade and FA date but it was And..." 22/Nov

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