Flying Crag Area

Adjacent Areas
< Roadside Buttresses  |  Quarry Wall Area >

Trad
Early morning sun
7 mins
Level
Windy

The most significant piece of rock at this end of the cliff is a north-facing wall capped on the right by a layer of disintegrating rock. The best routes are rather short and around the left edge of the buttress. Sadly they don't see much sunshine. A little further north is a lone buttress.
Approach (see map on page 440) - Continue along the cliff-top path for a 200m, past a dip, to a north-facing quarried wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Has Shaun Got False Teeth?
A technical rib above a sloping landing. No right arete allowed.
1 user comment
 
Technical
f6B
2
Dick's Dilemma
Start just right of the arete and balance onto it. Above is easier. A harder start (4c) is just left of the arete.
 HS
3
Truancy
The tricky wall past a small sloping triangular ledge.
 
Technical
E1
4
Wasted Youth
Make tricky moves past the initial bulge then continue more easily. Unprotected.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
5
Groove and Wall
Start up an overhanging groove in the arete, then follow the left wall of the corner to finish as for Wasted Youth.
 VS
6
Flying Crag Groove
Pleasant climbing up the open groove.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
7
Don's Mantel
The tricky and unprotected face does have a tough mantel.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2
8
Flying Crag Crack
From a grim hollow power up the flaky crack.
 
Loose
HVS
9
Slanted and Enchanted
The impressive side-wall. Pull on to the wall at an 'eye' in the break, rock left and follow holds to a scary last move.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
10
The Flying Crag
Climb the crack in the front face then head left on crusty jugs.
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVS
11
John Wilson
The double prow above a dodgy landing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
f6A+
12
Flying Start
Climb the groove - more awkward than it looks
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A