Flying Crag Area

Adjacent Areas
< Roadside Buttresses  |  Quarry Wall Area >

Trad
Early morning sun
7 mins
Level
Windy

The most significant piece of rock at this end of the cliff is a north-facing wall capped on the right by a layer of disintegrating rock. The best routes are rather short and around the left edge of the buttress. Sadly they don't see much sunshine. A little further north is a lone buttress.
Approach (see map on page 440) - Continue along the cliff-top path for a 200m, past a dip, to a north-facing quarried wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dick's Dilemma
Start just right of the arete and balance onto it. Above is easier. A harder start (4c) is just left of the arete.
 HS
2
Truancy
The tricky wall past a small sloping triangular ledge.
 
Technical
E1
3
Wasted Youth
Make tricky moves past the initial bulge then continue more easily. Unprotected.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
4
Groove and Wall
Start up an overhanging groove in the arete, then follow the left wall of the corner to finish as for Wasted Youth.
 VS
5
Flying Crag Groove
Pleasant climbing up the open groove.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
6
Don's Mantel
The tricky and unprotected face does have a tough mantel.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2
7
Flying Crag Crack
From a grim hollow power up the flaky crack.
 
Loose
HVS
8
Slanted and Enchanted
The impressive side-wall. Pull on to the wall at an 'eye' in the break, rock left and follow holds to a scary last move.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
9
The Flying Crag
Climb the crack in the front face then head left on crusty jugs.
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVS
  • Latest Comments

    For BASLOW

    Pensioner's Bulge
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Fingers Crack
    "For me the direct finish felt closer to 5b than the 5a it gets in the definitive..." 17/Jan

    Grounded Bees
    "Should also be a boulder grade at V0 (5a)" 20/Mar

    Gully Wall
    "Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

    Social Climber
    "Couldn't work this out at this grade. Very thin move above gear to reach the poc..." 14/Apr

    Broken Buttress
    "I agree, the step up onto the block is harder than the slab, still only Diff tho..." 18/Mar

    Death to Khomeini
    "Probably HS 4b if you trust the thread in the creaky flake! In which case a sid..." 06/Oct

    Search for comments