In the Woods

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
20 mins
Level
Sheltered

The crag leaves one of its best bits until last - a couple of well-sheltered buttresses, which are green after any unsettled weather because of the surrounding trees. The routes include two modern desperates and a reasonable selection of often rather grubby cracks.
Approach (see map on page 440) - Follow the cliff-top path south for 300m from the stone wall below the Central Buttresses to where a steep gully leads down under the rocks. This is almost due west of the Eagle Stone.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Above and Beyond the Calisthenic Barrier
Just right of the cave, climb the tricky wall right then left via ledges. The finish above the last of these feels a little...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS
2
Left Hand Gully Buttress
An awkward start leads to a perplexing finish. From a good side-pull reach a thin break then stretch for the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS
3
Poppers
A desperate route up the centre of buttress. Start below a short hanging arete and make hard moves to get a right hand on this...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Dyno
Crimpy
Rounded
E5
4
The Grand Potato
Start under the right arete. The short will need a cheating stone to reach a slot in the roof, others will leap. Pull over to a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Fluttery
E7
5
The Cave Gully
The hanging chimney gives a good old-fashioned struggle. The best footholds are on the right.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
6
Cave Climb Indirect
Climb the wall to the hanging crack and a tricky exit left.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS
7
Cave Climb Direct
From the cave, storm the roof and the twin jamming cracks.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
VS
8
Social Climber
The pillar to the right is rather an artificial line, its difficulty depends on how much use you make of the aretes.
2 user comments
 HVS
9
Jam and Blast It
Blast up the hanging left-hand crack. The route proves to be a little hidden gem. Using the next route for a little help is a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
10
Corner Crack
Up the cracked groove to a tricky widening finish.
 
Graunchy
VS
11
Not Now John
A technical crux start leads to a ledge (awkward thread) and a slabby finish needing a little care.
 
Technical
HVS
12
Capstone Chimney
Interesting moves up the chimney, past the jammed boulder. Exit inside the chockstone or outside at VD.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
13
Capstone Chimney Crack
A hard start (often a bit green) leads to the delicate slabby face.
 
1 Stars
S
14
Twin Cracks
The trio of cracks. Nice enough though often a bit grubby. More traffic would help.
 VD
15
Cave Rib
Nice balance climbing up the rib right of the gully. Finish to the left, a direct finish is E2 5c and finishing rightwards is...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E1
16
Heather Wall
Bridge up then traverse out right to access the crack in the face.
 
2 Stars
VD
17
I've Gotta Get On
A right-hand variation on the previous climb - gritty.
 
Technical
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For BASLOW

    Right Hand Gully
    "Changed from D to D, 0% of 3 votes for D" 19/Jun

    Pensioner's Bulge
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Fingers Crack
    "For me the direct finish felt closer to 5b than the 5a it gets in the definitive..." 17/Jan

    Hot Ziggerty
    "good highball font 6c" 25/Aug

    Grounded Bees
    "Should also be a boulder grade at V0 (5a)" 20/Mar

    Gully Wall
    "Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

    Social Climber
    "Couldn't work this out at this grade. Very thin move above gear to reach the poc..." 14/Apr

    Broken Buttress
    "I agree, the step up onto the block is harder than the slab, still only Diff tho..." 18/Mar

    Death to Khomeini
    "Probably HS 4b if you trust the thread in the creaky flake! In which case a sid..." 06/Oct

    Broken Buttress
    "The 1965 Froggatt guide has this route, and suggests that the majority of its Ba..." 22/Jun

    Wasted Youth
    "Apparently I got the wrong Hannon - right name, grade and FA date but it was And..." 22/Nov

    Hair Conditioned Nightmare
    "Could I say that I thought I did the first ascent of this climb around 1978ish. ..." 01/Oct

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