The Cave

Adjacent Areas
< Central Buttresses  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Level

The crag leaves one of its best bits until last - a couple of well sheltered buttresses, which are green after any unsettled weather. The routes include two modern desperates and a reasonable selection of cracks.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Above and Beyond the Calisthenic Barrier
8m. Just right of the cave, climb the wall right then left via ledges. The finish above the last of these feels a little bold.
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
2
Left Hand Gully Buttress
8m. An awkward start leads to a perplexing finish - from a good side-pull reach a thin break then stretch for the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4b
3
Poppers
9m. A desperate route up the centre of buttress. Start below a short hanging arete and make hard moves to get a right hand on...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Rounded
E5 6c
4
The Grand Potato
9m. Start under the right arete. Make powerful moves to reach a slot in the roof. Pull over to gain a disappointing break -...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E6 6b
5
The Cave Gully
8m. The hanging chimney gives a good old-fashioned struggle. The best footholds are on the right.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Cave Climb Indirect
8m. Climb the wall to the hanging crack and a choice of exits.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
7
Cave Climb Direct
8m. From the cave storm the twinned jamming cracks.
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Social Climber
10m. Climb the thin crack move up and left to the obvious pocket and finish up the centre of the buttress.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
9
Jam and Blast It
8m. Blast up the hanging left-hand crack. The route is a little hidden gem; at least for jam-meisters!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
10
Corner-crack
8m. Up the cracked groove to a tricky widening finish.
 VS 4c
11
Not Now John
8m. A technical start leads to a ledge (awkward thread) and a slabby finish needing a little care.
 HVS 5c
12
Capstone Chimney
10m. Interesting moves u p the chimney, past the jammed boulder. Exit inside the chockstone or outside at VDiff.
 D
13
Capstone Chimney Crack
10m. A hard start (often a bit green) leads to the slabby face.
 
1 Stars
S 4c
14
Twin Cracks
8m. The trio(!) of grubby cracks; more traffic would help.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BASLOW

    Pensionerís Bulge
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Fingers Crack
    "For me the direct finish felt closer to 5b than the 5a it gets in the definitive..." 17/Jan

    Hot Ziggerty
    "good highball font 6c" 25/Aug

    Grounded Bees
    "Should also be a boulder grade at V0 (5a)" 20/Mar

    Gully Wall
    "Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

    Social Climber
    "Couldn't work this out at this grade. Very thin move above gear to reach the poc..." 14/Apr

    Broken Buttress
    "I agree, the step up onto the block is harder than the slab, still only Diff tho..." 18/Mar

    Death to Khomeini
    "Probably HS 4b if you trust the thread in the creaky flake! In which case a sid..." 06/Oct

    Broken Buttress
    "The 1965 Froggatt guide has this route, and suggests that the majority of its Ba..." 22/Jun

    Wasted Youth
    "Apparently I got the wrong Hannon - right name, grade and FA date but it was And..." 22/Nov

    Search for comments