In the Woods

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
20 mins

The crag leaves one of its best bits until last - a couple of well-sheltered buttresses, which are green after any unsettled weather because of the surrounding trees. The routes include two modern desperates and a reasonable selection of often rather grubby cracks.
Approach (see map on page 440) - Follow the cliff-top path south for 300m from the stone wall below the Central Buttresses to where a steep gully leads down under the rocks. This is almost due west of the Eagle Stone.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Above and Beyond the Calisthenic Barrier
8m. Just right of the cave, climb the wall right then left via ledges. The finish above the last of these feels a little bold.
1 Stars
HS 4a
Left Hand Gully Buttress
8m. An awkward start leads to a perplexing finish - from a good side-pull reach a thin break then stretch for the top.
1 user comment
1 Stars
VS 4b
9m. A desperate route up the centre of buttress. Start below a short hanging arete and make hard moves to get a right hand on...
1 Stars
E5 6c
The Grand Potato
9m. Start under the right arete. Make powerful moves to reach a slot in the roof. Pull over to gain a disappointing break -...
1 Stars
E6 6b
The Cave Gully
8m. The hanging chimney gives a good old-fashioned struggle. The best footholds are on the right.
1 Stars
Cave Climb Indirect
8m. Climb the wall to the hanging crack and a choice of exits.
1 user comment
VS 4c
Cave Climb Direct
8m. From the cave storm the twinned jamming cracks.
VS 4c
Social Climber
10m. Climb the thin crack move up and left to the obvious pocket and finish up the centre of the buttress.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
Jam and Blast It
8m. Blast up the hanging left-hand crack. The route is a little hidden gem; at least for jam-meisters!
1 user comment
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8m. Up the cracked groove to a tricky widening finish.
 VS 4c
Not Now John
8m. A technical start leads to a ledge (awkward thread) and a slabby finish needing a little care.
 HVS 5c
Capstone Chimney
10m. Interesting moves u p the chimney, past the jammed boulder. Exit inside the chockstone or outside at VDiff.
Capstone Chimney Crack
10m. A hard start (often a bit green) leads to the slabby face.
1 Stars
S 4c
Twin Cracks
8m. The trio(!) of grubby cracks; more traffic would help.
  • Latest Comments

    For BASLOW

    Pensionerís Bulge
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Fingers Crack
    "For me the direct finish felt closer to 5b than the 5a it gets in the definitive..." 17/Jan

    Hot Ziggerty
    "good highball font 6c" 25/Aug

    Grounded Bees
    "Should also be a boulder grade at V0 (5a)" 20/Mar

    Gully Wall
    "Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

    Social Climber
    "Couldn't work this out at this grade. Very thin move above gear to reach the poc..." 14/Apr

    Broken Buttress
    "I agree, the step up onto the block is harder than the slab, still only Diff tho..." 18/Mar

    Death to Khomeini
    "Probably HS 4b if you trust the thread in the creaky flake! In which case a sid..." 06/Oct

    Broken Buttress
    "The 1965 Froggatt guide has this route, and suggests that the majority of its Ba..." 22/Jun

    Wasted Youth
    "Apparently I got the wrong Hannon - right name, grade and FA date but it was And..." 22/Nov

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