Adjacent Areas
< Central Buttresses | None >
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Afternoon sun
Level
20 minsWindy
The crag leaves one of its best bits until last - a couple of well sheltered buttresses, which are green after any unsettled weather. The routes include two modern desperates and a reasonable selection of cracks. Guidebook page 315.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Above and Beyond the Calisthenic Barrier 8m. Just right of the cave, climb the wall right then left via ledges. The finish above the last of these feels a little bold. | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
2 |
Left Hand Gully Buttress 8m. An awkward start leads to a perplexing finish - from a good side-pull reach a thin break then stretch for the top. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | VS 4b |
3 |
Poppers 9m. A desperate route up the centre of buttress. Start below a short hanging arete and make hard moves to get a right hand on... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy Rounded | E5 6c |
4 |
The Grand Potato 9m. Start under the right arete. Make powerful moves to reach a slot in the roof. Pull over to gain a disappointing break -... | 1 Stars Strong Rounded | E6 6b |
5 |
The Cave Gully 8m. The hanging chimney gives a good old-fashioned struggle. The best footholds are on the right. | 1 Stars | VD |
6 |
Cave Climb Indirect 8m. Climb the wall to the hanging crack and a choice of exits. 1 user comment | Pumpy | VS 4c |
7 |
Cave Climb Direct 8m. From the cave storm the twinned jamming cracks. | Pumpy | VS 4c |
8 |
Social Climber 10m. Climb the thin crack move up and left to the obvious pocket and finish up the centre of the buttress. 1 user comment | VS 5a | |
9 |
Jam and Blast It 8m. Blast up the hanging left-hand crack. The route is a little hidden gem; at least for jam-meisters! 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
10 |
Corner-crack 8m. Up the cracked groove to a tricky widening finish. | VS 4c | |
11 |
Not Now John 8m. A technical start leads to a ledge (awkward thread) and a slabby finish needing a little care. | HVS 5c | |
12 |
Capstone Chimney 10m. Interesting moves u p the chimney, past the jammed boulder. Exit inside the chockstone or outside at VDiff. | D | |
13 |
Capstone Chimney Crack 10m. A hard start (often a bit green) leads to the slabby face. | 1 Stars | S 4c |
14 |
Twin Cracks 8m. The trio(!) of grubby cracks; more traffic would help. | VD | |