Kismet Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

Birchenís last gasp is not a bad effort; sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple of hours if only to tick the stars. Nelsonís Nemesis is especially worth calling in for if you are passing by, and there are several other offerings of interest. Guidebook page 347.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Implosion
6m. Climb the face left of the thin central crack to bubbly pockets above the break, a long reach from here gains the top.
5 user comments
 
Reachy
HVS 5c
2
Explosion
6m. The central crack-line is strenuous and awkward to protect, just blast up it.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
3
Blast Hole Wall
6m. Gain the prominent, floral pocket via a long reach from a hole. Stand up with difficulty and finish easily.
4 user comments
 
Reachy
VS 5b
4
Fuse
12m. Climb the narrow slab passing a small roof with difficulty. Finish up the side of the prow above for extra interest.
6 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
VS 5a
5
Gun-cotton Groove
12m. The grassy crack and shallow groove is a good beginner's climb, being well protected. One or two of the blocks wobble.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
6
Cook's Rib
12m. Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5c
7
Horatio's Direct
12m. Climb the thin crack in a shallow corner (awkward wires) then layback up the easier continuation corner. The route stays a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
8
Horatio's Horror
14m. The main groove is taken on excellent jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftwards (the tall can bridge it) to...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HS 4a
9
Nelson's Nemesis
16m. Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
10
Victory Vice
12m. The deep, narrowing chimney to the right is hard work but quite safe despite the rattling chockstone, don't get stuck in...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
11
For Queen and Country
14m. Climb the face and arete right of the chimney the trend left to cross its upper section and gain a ledge at the foot of a...
2 user comments
 VS 5a
12
Device
10m. The buttress is climbed via a mantelshelf, a thin crack and a tricky sloping exit. The gear is not very reassuring.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 4c
13
Gunpowder Gully Arete
12m. Climb the left arete of the deep gully and finish under a large perched flake. Unprotected - care needed.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVD
14
Gunpowder Gully
12m. The gully behind the block gives steep but easy bridging.
1 user comment
 D
15
Sea Dog Slab
5m. The front face of the block is climbed diagonally from its bottom left corner and is a bit too steep to be a real slab.
1 user comment
 VD
16
Sailor's Chute
8m. Round the corner is this narrowing leaning rift - it's fun!
 
Technical
HVD 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

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