Kismet Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Birchen's last gasp is not a bad effort. Sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple of hours if only to tick the stars. Nelson's Nemesis is especially worth calling in for if you are passing by on the way home, and there are several other offerings of interest.
Approach (see map on page 477) - From the main crag go up to the cliff-top path. Turn right (south) and walk above the other areas to the next substantial piece of rock about 200m away. It can also be reached directly and more quickly by taking the right-hand branch on the approach path. Follow this to a junction and turn left along the crag-top path that leads to the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Implosion
Climb the face left of the thin central crack to bubbly pockets above the break; a long reach gains the top. UK tech grade 5c.
7 user comments
 f5+
2
Explosion
The central crack-line is strenuous. It can be protected but it is awkward and it is best to just blast up it. UK tech grade of...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
f4+
3
Blast Hole Wall
Gain the prominent floral pocket via a long reach from a hole. Stand up with difficulty and finish easily. UK tech grade of 5b.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
4
Cor Limey
The slabby arete to the right of the grassy gully has a high crux.
 VD
5
Powder Keg
The short and tricky corner/groove leads to pastoral ramblings.
 S
6
Fuse
Climb the narrow slab passing a small roof with difficulty. Finish up the side of the prow above for extra interest.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
7
Gun-cotton Groove
The grassy crack and shallow groove is a good beginners' climb, as it is well protected. One or two of the blocks wobble.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
8
Cook's Rib
Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete lowers...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
9
Horatio's Direct
Climb the thin crack in a shallow corner (fiddly small wires) then layback up the easier continuation corner. The route stays a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Horatio's Horror
The main groove is taken on excellent jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftward (the tall can bridge it) to gain a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
11
Heavy Cruiser
The short-lived but tough roof is climbed left of centre.
 E1
12
Nelson's Nemesis
Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny 'button',...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
13
Tom's Arete
The bold arete is climbed on its right-hand side to the roof, which is crossed with difficulty and little in the way of gear.
 
Technical
E5
14
Victory Vice
The deep, narrowing chimney is hard work but quite safe despite the rattling chockstone - try not to get stuck in it.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
15
For Queen and Country
A devious oddity climbing first the right then the left aretes of the chimney to finish up a shallow groove.
3 user comments
 HVS
16
Device
The buttress is climbed via a mantelshelf, a thin crack and a tricky shelving exit. The gear is not really very...
2 user comments
 HVS
17
Gunpowder Gully Arete
Climb the left arete of the deep gully and finish under a large perched flake. Unprotected so care needed.
3 user comments
 S
18
Gunpowder Gully
The gully behind the block gives steep but easy bridging.
2 user comments
 D
19
Sea Dog Slab
The front face of the block is climbed diagonally from its bottom left corner and is a bit too steep to be a real slab.
1 user comment
 VD
20
Sailor's Chute
Round the corner is this narrowing leaning rift - it is fun!
 
Technical
HVD
  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    Implosion
    "Shame. One of my few (very insignificant) claims to fame. Never mind. A.Russell..." 15/Apr

    Polaris Exit
    "Changed from D * to D *, 0% of 3 votes for D" 23/Mar

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Hornblower
    "Solid V5 as per the description I think. And the problem doesn't end quite as ne..." 26/Feb

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

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