Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
Birchen’s last gasp is not a bad effort; sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple of hours if only to tick the stars. Nelson’s Nemesis is especially worth calling in for if you are passing by, and there are several other offerings of interest. Guidebook page 347.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Implosion 6m. Climb the face left of the thin central crack to bubbly pockets above the break, a long reach from here gains the top. 5 user comments | Reachy | HVS 5c |
2 |
Explosion 6m. The central crack-line is strenuous and awkward to protect, just blast up it. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
3 |
Blast Hole Wall 6m. Gain the prominent, floral pocket via a long reach from a hole. Stand up with difficulty and finish easily. 4 user comments | Reachy | VS 5b |
4 |
Fuse 12m. Climb the narrow slab passing a small roof with difficulty. Finish up the side of the prow above for extra interest. 6 user comments | Technical Rounded | VS 5a |
5 |
Gun-cotton Groove 12m. The grassy crack and shallow groove is a good beginner's climb, being well protected. One or two of the blocks wobble. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | VD |
6 |
Cook's Rib 12m. Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5c |
7 |
Horatio's Direct 12m. Climb the thin crack in a shallow corner (awkward wires) then layback up the easier continuation corner. The route stays a... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | VS 4c |
8 |
Horatio's Horror 14m. The main groove is taken on excellent jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftwards (the tall can bridge it) to... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | HS 4a |
9 |
Nelson's Nemesis 16m. Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny... 15 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
10 |
Victory Vice 12m. The deep, narrowing chimney to the right is hard work but quite safe despite the rattling chockstone, don't get stuck in... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
11 |
For Queen and Country 14m. Climb the face and arete right of the chimney the trend left to cross its upper section and gain a ledge at the foot of a... 2 user comments | VS 5a | |
12 |
Device 10m. The buttress is climbed via a mantelshelf, a thin crack and a tricky sloping exit. The gear is not very reassuring. 2 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | HVS 4c |
13 |
Gunpowder Gully Arete 12m. Climb the left arete of the deep gully and finish under a large perched flake. Unprotected - care needed. 2 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | HVD |
14 |
Gunpowder Gully 12m. The gully behind the block gives steep but easy bridging. 1 user comment | D | |
15 |
Sea Dog Slab 5m. The front face of the block is climbed diagonally from its bottom left corner and is a bit too steep to be a real slab. 1 user comment | VD | |
16 |
Sailor's Chute 8m. Round the corner is this narrowing leaning rift - it's fun! | Technical | HVD 4a |